Jump to content

AndyC 4A

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    64
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About AndyC 4A

  • Birthday 08/29/1955

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Longham Dorset
  1. Thanks everyone. Interestingly, from the conversations I am reading that fitting the back-light assembly is not an issue, so its up to me on alloy or fibreglass and Moss or Honeybourne as described by Stuart.The main chat seems to be have been about fitting the soft top which has been interesting. So I suppose its down to "pays yer money, takes yer choice"
  2. Thanks for the clarification, so I am looking for comments on the back-light section, and the surrey "soft" centre section, Moss, Honeybourne or any other. Stuart has kindly started the ball rolling with his views and experience so I am interested in anyone else's comments, good bad or otherwise on replicas v originals. Also, I see in the Moss On-line catalogue, some items are on back order, anyone had experience on time delays this means? Andy
  3. Thanks Pete, that is what I was asking
  4. Hi All, My soft top needs replacing and I am thinking of a Honeybourne equivalent. I am selling my other 2 seater (Honda S2000) and so the TR will be my 2nd (Occasional) car, and as a consequence will need the space where the soft top sits. Also Mrs C wants to take the the smallish dogs out with us in the Summer so the space will be useful. So the question is, has anyone bought a complete replica "Surrey" from Moss or anyone else? Not really worried about having the "hard (Surrey) top" section at this time. Not much on the forum, odd mention of Honeybourne but not regarding complete ones. All comments welcome, warts and all. Yours in anticipation Andy
  5. Thanks Geko but the pin is intact. Just an observation but is the spring assembly on upside down in your picture? Andy
  6. Thanks Roger, The lock itself seems to be OK, when I lift the side lever up, the plunger extends and pushes on the mech lever, and when the side lever is down, the plunger is disabled. The problem is as I see it that the link assembly which pulls the lock side lever down, is defaulting to the down position, so that it is in effect locking the door, i.e. handle button being pressed does nothing, Hope the picture attached makes more sense than my ramblings.
  7. Hi All, Having run the TR for a year or so I thought I would get around to the snagging list of annoying jobs that need to be done, one of which is my Passenger door lock assembly. I am not sure that it is working properly, but unsure what is correct. I'll explain.-- when the passenger door shuts, it cannot be opened from the outside. If I reach in and pull the internal handle back, it opens fine. Again, when the door is shut, but the internal handle is or has been pushed forward, then I can open the door from the outside. I can see that the link assembly (650251) is moving up then allowing the lock plunger to push the lever arm on the "rotary lock 750169" (Moss description) . But once that happens, the link assembly pulls the lock lever arm down and there it stays until the internal handle is pushed forward again. I am not sure this is correct as it behaves differently on the drivers side. Am I missing something? I have the lock assembly on the bench and nothing seems awry, that I can see, comparing it to various drawings. There is a small spring on the rotary lock which doesn't seem to do much, but it's probably important. So my question is, is the lock behaving correctly or not? Many thanks Andy C
  8. Thanks everyone, So one flat and one curve is definitely not right, for a 4 or 4a. I now have to break the news to him that his TR that he has had since it was 18 months old has probably been bent in its very early life and no-one noticed until now. Perhaps I'll leave him in blissful ignorance. Many thanks for your comments and to sharing your extensive knowledge. Andy
  9. Hi Stuart, I attach 2 pictures which may help. 1 of 2 is my car showing the sculpted area highlighted and 2 of 2 shows the same area highlighted but with a straight edge. Hope this helps. Andy C
  10. I have a quick question regarding the small "shelf" that is part of the inner front wheel arch assembly.(Mounted on that is another smaller one to which the brackets for the horns and horn relay are mounted). On my 4a the ones attached to the inner wing are the same and are about 10" long with curve indented in them. I noticed that on a friends 4a the drivers side is the same but on the passengers side, the curve is not in the pressing, it is straight front to back. Was there any difference between 4 and 4a inner wings? I have have viewed many engine bay pictures on the Internet, and cannot work out why there should be any difference from one side to the other, unless in the past there was a replacement inner wing fitted. So I ask if any knowledgeable members can enlighten me as to 1. what models had that difference, and 2. would any cars have one of each from new? Many thanks for your help. Andy C
  11. Thanks guys, the feet of the H frame locate ok with the floor and it looks upright, the top bracket vertical face is facing the cockpit so I assume thats the right way otherwise the frame would lean towards the engine bay...wouldn't it?
  12. Hi All, Just wondered if its me. Gearbox back in, but putting into 3rd gear the lever pushes the heater fan switch in. I am sure it shouldn't but what is in the wrong place? I welcome your thoughts. Andy
  13. Thanks Roger, have drilled it out and all is well, sometimes its about having the confidence to do these things, and your reply certainly helped.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.