Alfrom Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 Having booked and paid for a track day with the TR, I decided to read the small print regardingTs&Cs - yes, I know I should have done this first but enthusiasm overtook common sense. Anyway, I now know that there has to be a 'preferred/approved' tow point at either the front or rear of the car and of course, the TR6 doesn't have one. I've searched the forum and found a few references to this, including an item submitted by Marko referring to fitting something in an area marked yellow on a photograph I can't find. I've got just over a week to get it sorted out - failure will probably mean I'll have to take my Alfa (which would also be great but I really want to get the full TR experience. So what to do? Any suggestions will be welcomed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 Pierre, not sure if all TR6's had them but my exported 1974.5 car has provision for tie downs on both sides at the rear of the frame that could pose as tow location points.They can be clearly seen hanging down from the frame rails. I use them all the time when I trailer my TR6. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Cobbold Posted October 1, 2014 Report Share Posted October 1, 2014 Would the eyes on the front sides of the radiator protection shield do? #26 here: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID600270 add a splash of yellow paint... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 I think rimmers also do anti roll bar mounts that include a towing point. Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 Would the eyes on the front sides of the radiator protection shield do? #26 here: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID600270 add a splash of yellow paint... They will work but better if beefed up a bit. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jerrytr5 Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 The only level of scrutineering at any track day I've attended has been for noise checks and suitable clothing/headgear for the occupants, so I probably wouldn't worry. You could just stick a yellow arrow pointing down on front and rear skirts to indicate a chassis tow and if you think they will be especially pedantic wrap some old seat belt webbing round the front arb and rear chassis to create a tow eye. Jerry Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Denis Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 Isn't the 'Radiator protect shield' with it's two large Eyelets standard equipment on all TR6's then? I've been towed home using these (too) many times over the years! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alfrom Posted October 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 Thanks for all the inputs, gentlemen. My car certainly has the twin eye bolts on the radiator guard and they appear in good condition. My understanding though is that these are not particularly strong but should be able to cope with tows that are not too stressful or agressive. Not sure if a recovery crew at a circuit can be guaranteed to be sufficiently sympathetic, especially if I end up in a gravel trap! Perhaps I just need to really ensure I stay on the black stuff. I quite like the idea of webbing wrapped around the arb and rear chassis, but it doesn't fit with the wording of the track circuit requirements. I'll probably get some for general use, though. Beefing up the guard eye bolts would also seem a sensible thing to do if I get the bug and want to do more track days. Given the lack of time available to me to do anything between now and the track day, I'll probably do as suggested by Peter and Jerry - paint the radiator guard eye bolts yellow and stick on a couple of appropriate arrows. I'll also have to remove the front splitter and number plate just in case I need a tow, else the tow rope will snag them. Should be fun on the day. I'll be there with my son and his modified Alfasud, plus a bunch of other Alfas. Apologies for mentioning this but I'm a bit of an Alfanatic as well as loving the TR. It'll be interesting to see how they all compare. Thanks again for the input, gents. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 You just have time to fit a rear of cockpit Alloy Firewall to help prevent you burning to death in the event of a nasty. I realise the event may not be scrutinised to full competition standard but I can assure you that the burns received if the fuel tank ruptures and allows the burning fuel into the cockpit will hurt just as much. If you think this is a good idea be assured the modification will protect you and passenger on the public roads when you are T boned by a Van. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alfrom Posted October 14, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 Back from yesterday's track day - very very wet, a little scary at times but very exciting and great fun. I may have the bug . . . . . Anyway, I had painted the radiator tow eyes yellow, stuck on a couple of 'tow point' stickers, removed the splitter and at the circuit, the front number plate (although I forgot about this until after lunch!). As Jerry said above, scrutineering was basic, being limited to a noise check and before going on the track, confirmation of wearing a helmet and the wrist bands showing attendance at the drivers' briefing. I'll have a think about the firewall and what's involved in fitting one - I can see the sense of such a precaution but I'm not that clever with metal work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted October 14, 2014 Report Share Posted October 14, 2014 Minimal skills needed for the rear firewall. Swap about £60ish with any of the TR parts suppliers with a competition provenance TR Enterprises/Racetorations/Revingtons etc to supply the alloy firewall panel. Strip the rear of the cockpit of trim and the rear fibreboard cover place the Alloy firewall in place against the cockpit frame and attack the firewall and rear cockpit frame with a battery drill and 3 mm drill bit. Aim for a hole about every 25mm, after drilling remove the alloy panel and deburr the holes in the alloy and also the cockpit frame using a 10 mm drill by hand, (don't forget the small closing panels supplied separate which need to go above the wheelarches onto the firewall). After cleaning use Indasa windscreen sealant or other intumescent sealer in between the alloy firewall and the cockpit frame, rivet the alloy panel to the frame and to the small closing panels and that's it. Replace the fibreboard in front of the firewall and it's all hidden. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 Just be careful where the rear loom goes along the inner wing on the left hand side that you dont chafe through it and while you are fitting it think if you want any extra wiring to go back into the boot and fit it then. You may also want to fit some sound deadening on both sides of the centre ally panel as it will probably drum otherwise. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Alfrom Posted October 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 Mick, Stuart Thanks for the pointers and advice - I'll look into it over the next few days/weeks. Pierre Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 Minimal skills needed for the rear firewall. Swap about £60ish with any of the TR parts suppliers with a competition provenance TR Enterprises/Racetorations/Revingtons etc to supply the alloy firewall panel. Strip the rear of the cockpit of trim and the rear fibreboard cover place the Alloy firewall in place against the cockpit frame and attack the firewall and rear cockpit frame with a battery drill and 3 mm drill bit. Aim for a hole about every 25mm, after drilling remove the alloy panel and deburr the holes in the alloy and also the cockpit frame using a 10 mm drill by hand, (don't forget the small closing panels supplied separate which need to go above the wheelarches onto the firewall). After cleaning use Indasa windscreen sealant or other intumescent sealer in between the alloy firewall and the cockpit frame, rivet the alloy panel to the frame and to the small closing panels and that's it. Replace the fibreboard in front of the firewall and it's all hidden. Mick Richards Mick Indasa is NOT resistant to petrol and should not be used. Fit the panel's and seal with fiberglass . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted October 15, 2014 Report Share Posted October 15, 2014 (edited) Hi Neil, When we fit for competition the edges of the alloy firewall are sealed with fibreglass also but I reckoned most people if using it on the road may not like it getting slightly untidy there. However the Indasa doesn't need to be intumescent or petrol proof (although I agree with you to use, e bay has many of these products) I reckon the sealing only has to last long enough to allow you to be extracted or climb from out of a wrecked car say couple of minutes tops and the Indasa will take that long to burn through. Failing that and if the car is stripped down for painting why not weld a thin steel panel across the frame like Tony and some others have done and get a stiffer car and better seal. Mick Richards Edited October 15, 2014 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRTOM2498PI Posted October 16, 2014 Report Share Posted October 16, 2014 Hi Alfrom, I have a modified 6 that is used on track, with tow eyes and a firewall. Drop me an e-mail if you would like pictures, or perhaps I may see you on the track soon. ? Thomas.key@air-liaison.net Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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