Gearbox - car creeps in neutral!

[derekbalaam]

You probably think from the title that I am just plain crazy! I assure you I am not.

 

The gearbox is fine most of the time, but sometimes after a long run, there is something trying to move the car forwards slightly when it is in neutral[/b]. (Just idling, level surface, handbrake off, clutch not depressed.) It isn't a clutch disengagement problem.

 

I know this sounds stupid, but is does happen! Any ideas? Could it be a selector fork problem, where perhaps it is not totally pulled out of top gear so the rings are still trying to mesh together a bit?

 

The car idles fine, but something is catching slightly and the car edges forwards very slightly. If I engage reverse, as I then let the clutch up again the car moves back but there is a slight resistance to the backward movement (as if the handbrake is on slightly, which it is not!)

 

Any solutions?

[ianhoward]

Sure you haven't an Auto 'box installed!!!

[Richard Crawley]

Do you have an overdrive? Is it A or J type? If so the cone clutch may be binding, this sometimes happens when they have been rebuilt. Check it out & avoid using reverse or you could permanently damage the uni-directional clutch inside the overdrive unit. This could be down to the solenoid, the detent switches on the g/box, the operating valve sticking or a completely gunged up overdrive; have you changed the oil lately? What oil do you use?

 

Only other thing I can think of is that the selectors are out or there is some problem with the main shaft sticking when hot indicating a gearbox problem.

[jstone]

Do you have an overdrive? Is it A or J type? If so the cone clutch may be binding, this sometimes happens when they have been rebuilt. Check it out & avoid using reverse or you could permanently damage the uni-directional clutch inside the overdrive unit. This could be down to the solenoid, the detent switches on the g/box, the operating valve sticking or a completely gunged up overdrive; have you changed the oil lately? What oil do you use?

 

Only other thing I can think of is that the selectors are out or there is some problem with the main shaft sticking when hot indicating a gearbox problem.

 

Hi,

 

on the issue of oil for the overdrive unit, do you have any preference or recommendation of oil that you use.

 

Thanks

 

Jeremy

[marvmul]

In neutral, with the clutch pedal released, the gears for 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear are spinning on the mainshaft. Perhaps,if one of the bushes is binding, the friction forces can be high enough to make the car creep? In neutral, with the clutch engaged, all the gears are spinning, (exept the small gear for reverse). Trying to stop one of the gears,would stall the engine or move the car.

[foster461]

Hi,

 

on the issue of oil for the overdrive unit, do you have any preference or recommendation of oil that you use.

 

Thanks

 

Jeremy

 

 

Lots of opiions on this but quite a few of us use 30W non detergent oil as advocated by John Espositio at Quantum.

 

http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories....ex&catid=11

 

Stan

[Tom Fremont]

Thanks, Stan. As one of the converted, I note there have been 175,000+ viewings of the page. True to form, hardly any of the TR flock have budged from what I can tell

[Richard Crawley]

Thanks, Stan. As one of the converted, I note there have been 175,000+ viewings of the page. True to form, hardly any of the TR flock have budged from what I can tell

Hmmmmm! obviously an ‘over the pond’ website & it's certainly the first time I've viewed it (should I admit to that!). If it’s correct, it certainly explains a few of the problems I’ve experienced over the years; unless it’s coincidence of course!

 

It’s late & I only glanced through the web without reading too much detail but it appeared to recommend a straight SAE 30 motor oil for the gearbox/overdrive unit which sort of goes against my (engineer’s) thoughts & the manufacturer’s recommendations! This may be good for the O/D function but does this provide suitable, long term protection for meshing gears which requires oil with high shear properties?

[Richard Crawley]

on the issue of oil for the overdrive unit, do you have any preference or recommendation of oil that you use.

Well I did but keep watching the posts!

[Richard Crawley]

Looks very, very nice but being a suspicious cynical git, I would want to be really, really, really sure it wasn’t somebody’s overpriced resto I was buying. I know it’s always possible but be very conscious that the number of UK cars sold was really quite low! As for what it’s worth, I would rather buy a properly restored car as it will be cheaper & almost certainly better sorted that anything BL ever sent out of the door; & without wishing to upset others, it’s hardly the most desirable colour!

 

 

Somehow I managed to post this on the wrong thread!

Edited April 3, 2007 by Richard Crawley

[mike ellis]

The original Triumph recommendation (sidescreen cars) was straight SAE30 engine oil, this was later changed to either that or EP oil and then for later cars to EP only. Many people run either of these choices without problems so I remain to be convinced how much diference it makes.

[RogerH]

Hi Chaps,

this one was covered earlier in the year. The OEM for the overdrive warned against EP oil due to centrifugal seperation of the constituents causing sludge build up and blocking of the oil ways. Almost certainly modern EP oils don't seperate so easily. Many gearboxes do not use EP oils as there isn't excessive shearing at the gear teeth unlike the diff with the hypoid gears.

If a survey of gearboxes using SAE 30 or 40 grade gearbox oil was carried I would expect none of them to have seized due to lack of body in the oil.

 

Non-EP oils are more pleasant to handle.

 

Best of luck

 

Roger

[marvmul]

Maybe all discussions about gearbox oil are irrelevant because Triumph gearboxes break down in places where gear oil is not needed. The gears may need EP oil, but Triumph gears outlast the other gearbox components a million times. If gears do fail anyway, it's because the meshing is upset by

broken layshaft needle bearings, or because bits of steel get between the teeth.

30W oil is already over the top.

[jonathan steel]

If you need a new car gearbox or any other part then try online car parts location services. You can find loads by typing 'car parts' into google.

 

to use the services you simply enter you parts requests and wait for quotes from multiple breakers. its that easy.

 

I used CarSpareFinder to locate several used vauxhall car parts, including a gearbox and ECU.

[raydrink]

Derek,

 

Sorry, I didn't notice this query when it was first posted otherwise I would have replied sooner.

 

What you need is Stanpart Kit number 158976 or the equivalent afternarket repro kit available from Rimmers and/or Moss. It comprises a long chain with an anchor on the end, but they will be out of stock until April 1st next year.

 

As usual, the Stanpart offering is a much better item than the aftermarket kit, as the chain is manufactured to much tighter tolerances and fits neatly in the glovebox. The anchor has its own bag and fits a treat in the hood well.

 

Ray