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  1. Hi Roger, I think you've been in the airplane industry too long! Sticking an 'e' on the end of Concord doesn't change its meaning, but it does with 'concours'. I think concours (d'elegance) is a competition, and depending how elegant you want to make your car, it could be miles away from how it left the factory, unless the category specifically states that judging will be based on originality. Ray
  2. There's one on eBay now - though I don't agree with some of the Technical Spec details. Caveat Emptor I'm afraid. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Bosch-0580254909-VW-...id=p3286.c0.m14 Ray
  3. Hi mart160plus, Suggest you look through the archives for Lumenition. My personal experience is that it is a pile of cr*p - but there are others out there who have had no problems with it - so to formulate a balanced opinion check the archives; then you'll find it really is a pile of cr*p. I have had 2 failures exactly as you have described so I suggest you replace with either Newtronic (sadly now owned by the people that make Lumenition) or Pertronix (Aldon). The spare wire is probably, as tinman says, a wire that the Lumenition replaced, but you need to get hold of a wiring diagram. My wiring diagram tells me that the wire originally on the +ve side of the coil is white and comes from the fusebox. Judging by the yellowy colour of the insulation on the spade terminal this looks like an original wire. If it goes to the ignition switch via the fuse box and there are green wires on the other side of said fuse, then it's likely to have come off the +ve side of the coil. I don't recommend putting it back on the coil as it's probably been removed for a reason - it's unlikely to be causing your problem. I'm sure others on here will provide you with the original Lumenition wiring info. Ray
  4. Hi Dave, Just off the top of my head (very dangerous!) and with no research done....but what about the Rover P5B. Alan, perhaps you have looked into these. They should be pretty large diameter and maybe similar stud pattern. This is my edit: Oops, I've just noticed Dave's piccy of a P6 in his signature, so maybe he has already looked into P5B. Just a thought Ray
  5. Hi John, I put some photos together when someone asked a similar question about a year ago. They are here: http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?...p;vehicleID=827 I now have a surrey top on mine, but when I had the hood fitted, the seat belts were OK and didn't foul anything. I hope the pictures are useful. Ray
  6. Hi Salmon, If the above is true then those two statements are mutually exclusive. The butteflies should be slightly open - I believe it's documented here that it's the thickness of a cigarette paper - but I'm not the expert on this one, except that I followed the advice (Richard Crawley's?) and it worked. I'm not sure what 'galleries' your man is talking about as the air passages are several inches wide and would be difficult to block. There may well be gunge around the butterflies and this must be cleared before attempting to gap them, but surely your man did this first. Why would you 'set' the butterflies without cleaning first? Bear in mind that I have a 5 so my only adjustment for air is the butterflies. Don't 6s have an adjustment at the front of the throttle bodies? Whilst your friendly mechanic is right to check the basics, such as exhaust leaks, perished hoses, choke cable etc, I don't get the impression he knows about Lucas PI. What do you think? Salmon, I also don't see any mention of checking the injectors, or as other have suggested, checking the fuel pressure. Has this been done? Whereabouts are you in the UK? Have you tried your local TR Register Group for help? Keep going, you'll get there eventually regards Ray
  7. Hi, I just wanted to make a note of the latest success I've had with the Bosch fuel system and I think this thread is the best place to put it - for the archives' sake if nothing else. After doing all the changes mentioned previously in the thread I eventually purchased a professionally-made fuel swirl tank and positioned it above the pump and below the tank. This was to be my attempt to get rid of the dreaded fuel starvation on left-hand bends. This yielded an improvement but did not fix it, though the car was eminently drivable and took me on the Register Highlands trip this year. However, whenever the fuel got below half way the pump would start making grinding noises as if it was short of fuel, but it never faltered or missed a beat, save for LH bends. I couldn't believe that the swirl tank had not fixed the problem but it was clear that even a full swirl tank, higher than the pump was not sufficient 'head' for the pump. Having replaced or cleaned or tested every other component over the preceding 12 months I bit the bullet and bought a brand new Bosch pump off eBay (for £50 ) and fitted it. Today I went out for my first run and I seem to have some improvement. Going round LH bends produces no hesitation but the fuel is only between halfway and quarter. I'd like to test it further when it is nearly empty. The pump is quieter and the biggest surprise.............I've no smell of fuel in the boot any more. I've kept the old pump as a spare but clearly it had some limitations, including leaking petrol vapour into the boot (it never showed signs of leaking fuel) and these SEEM to have been overcome by a new pump. Thanks to all for ongoing help Ray
  8. Hi Mark, I'm sure you're right. Quite by chance I had the relay in a box of spares and the switch was supplied by a friend when I came to do this modification. I'm sure there are more elegant solutions possible but this was cheap and quick. Ray
  9. I've now done a pretty crude diagram, in Word, complete with notes which should allow you to make the TR6 switch work in a TR5/250 environment, by copying my working example - not necessarily the only solution, but I've trialled it for 12 months now and the UK has been seriously wet this year! If anyone wants a copy please let me know and I will send. regards Ray
  10. Hi folks, Sorry to disagree but it is possible to use a four position TR6 wiper switch in a 3 wire environment on the TR5/250. I've done it on my 5. Unfortunately I do not know the number of the TR6 switch but it has WIPE written vertically on the front. Either it came with a black bezel or I re-used the Clear Hooters one, can't remember. OK, so how did I wire it? As I don't have a scanner I cannot draw a diagram and share it with you, but basically I used a two pole make/break relay. The fast speed goes through the switch as normal and the slow speed goes through the relay. If I remember correctly, the four connections on the TR6 switch are helpfully numbered 1-4 and 1&2 are connected when one speed is needed and 3&4 when the other is. I hope this is enough info for one of you electrical bods to work it out, but in the meantime I will try and see if I can draw a diagram in, say, Word. regards Ray
  11. Steve, I'll go with the brake fluid theory. Ray
  12. Hi Salmon, I had exactly this problem and I eventually measured the resistance between the plug electrodes and found that there was a path to earth where there should have been none. I too concluded that I'd got a bad plug. But it kept happening, every time the plug got fouled with fuel - and they all also got sooted up after less than 50 miles, necessitating cleaning! Having started with NGK 7ES plugs, I moved onto 6ES with no improvement so went even hotter to 5ES and the problem's gone. It might be worth trying a hotter plug. Ray
  13. That's great news Thanks for letting us know the outcome. Even though a lot of the investigative work you did on the engine turned out to be in pursuit of a red herring I bet you feel much more confident about the car now, eh? And you saved some cash by fixing it yourself. I think that's a good result all round. Ray
  14. Hi Trimprop, Re your query and your own topic entitled 'Newbie with a stuttering car', you seem to have done 90% of the work needed to solve this problem but given up on tying up the loose ends. For example, did your garage, after sorting out the timing and the correct points, tell you that you now had a good spark at each plug (even though the dizzy was sloppy)?. If they did, the sloppiness in the dizzy can be sorted out later. The issue to be addressed is why do I have lumpy running when I have replaced all the electrical items and have a good consistent spark? It sounds like you might have answered this yourself - pulling a plug lead off one or more plugs makes no difference to the engine speed. What you didn't confirm was whether those leads gave a good spark when earthed. If they did, and assuming the new plugs are OK, then you are likely to have a dribbling injector, either because it is being held open by crud (yes by all means clean the fuel filter to stop it happening again) or because the 'O' ring is kaput. Don't give up now; read up on pulling the injectors while the engine is running if you are apprehensive, and go for it! It's the only way I learned (with lots of help from Richard Crawley and others). Taking the injectors apart, renewing the 'O' ring and, in my case, tightening up the allen screw in the end of the injector to give a good spray pattern, was most satisfying. Don't start thinking in terms of valve seats and compression until you've gone down the injector route. Having had a car that would not run consistently well for almost 2 years, and the uncertainty that brings when driving it, I can say that having just completed the TR Register Isles Tour, doing 1543 miles without a hitch, I have renewed confidence not only in the car but in my ability to fix it. You can't beat it! Please let us know how you go on. Ray
  15. Hi Trimprop, Before fitting Lumenition, please read the archives on this piece of 'kit'. Newtronic (just been bought by Autocar Electrical Equipment Co Ltd, the designers, manufacturers and worldwide distributors of Lumenition unfortunately ) and Aldon (Pertronix) are much better. Ray
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