Jump to content

hot starting


Recommended Posts

hi all, my 6 has been cutting out when hot or refusing to start after a period of heat sink after stopping. I have replaced leads which were tracking.I was wondering if the problem could be the coil or my metering unit which although rebuilt is not unleaded type. So could the shuttle be seizing due to lack of lubricant in the fuel,I use unleaded with castrol additive.I know i'm not alone with this problem but there are different causes and slightly different symptoms. Any ideas welcome thanks.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ken

Best to go through it methodically changing one thing at a time so you know what has fixed it but i would start with a known good coil.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi Ken,

whilst attacking the coil don't forget the capacitor/condenser in the distributor - these can go temperature sensitive.

 

Roger

Thanks Roger, I forgot to say I replaced the capacitor,rotor arm and dizzy cap for new items. Regards ken.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ken

You need to establish if it is the electrics causing problem or the fuel system; have you carried out a basic check for sparks when the problem occurs? Once you’re satisfied it’s not the ignition system then it could be one of a number of problems with the PI.

 

It won’t be the shuttle seizing as this is a relatively loose fit in the rotor; the rotor itself runs a much finer tolerance but if that seized, I doubt it would ever run again; I’ve not heard of any seizure problems for a long time. Apart from the remanufactured M/U’s being sold with new shuttle/rotor units, the only difference between a leaded a & U/L M/U is the rubber used for the seals (Viton). I’m undecided if the remanufactured units (2 x the price) are good value or not & I’m currently running a Prestige U/L unit which uses the original rotor shuttle, I’ve not had any problems to date.

Link to post
Share on other sites
Ken

You need to establish if it is the electrics causing problem or the fuel system; have you carried out a basic check for sparks when the problem occurs? Once you’re satisfied it’s not the ignition system then it could be one of a number of problems with the PI.

 

It won’t be the shuttle seizing as this is a relatively loose fit in the rotor; the rotor itself runs a much finer tolerance but if that seized, I doubt it would ever run again; I’ve not heard of any seizure problems for a long time. Apart from the remanufactured M/U’s being sold with new shuttle/rotor units, the only difference between a leaded a & U/L M/U is the rubber used for the seals (Viton). I’m undecided if the remanufactured units (2 x the price) are good value or not & I’m currently running a Prestige U/L unit which uses the original rotor shuttle, I’ve not had any problems to date.

Excellent feedback thanks Richard

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ken

 

I had similar symptoms on one of my 6s in the 80/90s, it turned out to be the original inertia cut off switch on the bulkhead sticking open (albeit only marginally) – but it’s worth testing it.

 

Cheers

Andrew

Edited by Andrew Smith
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Ken

 

I noticed in one of your replies that you have replaced the dizzy capp, condenser, and rotor arm. this could be the problem. There was a thread relating to poor quality replacement rotor arms and dizzy caps a few weeks ago that made enlightening reading. Here's the link

 

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index....tributor+doctor

 

best

 

 

Dave

Link to post
Share on other sites

...and there's an ad in TRAction 216 for rotor arms, claiming better quality than some other repros. Dunno - maybe worth a look?

J

Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi Ken

 

I noticed in one of your replies that you have replaced the dizzy capp, condenser, and rotor arm. this could be the problem. There was a thread relating to poor quality replacement rotor arms and dizzy caps a few weeks ago that made enlightening reading. Here's the link

 

http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index....tributor+doctor

 

best

Dave

Thanks Dave, the rotor arm and dizzy cap were replaced to try to cure the problem.They were Lucas spares I've carried since 1990. I read the link too,it doesn't surprise me there are dodgy electrical perts around ,I had a rotor arm (from Moss) cause my wifes MGB to non function.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.