ken foster Posted January 15, 2007 Report Share Posted January 15, 2007 hi all, my 6 has been cutting out when hot or refusing to start after a period of heat sink after stopping. I have replaced leads which were tracking.I was wondering if the problem could be the coil or my metering unit which although rebuilt is not unleaded type. So could the shuttle be seizing due to lack of lubricant in the fuel,I use unleaded with castrol additive.I know i'm not alone with this problem but there are different causes and slightly different symptoms. Any ideas welcome thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted January 15, 2007 Report Share Posted January 15, 2007 (edited) Ken Best to go through it methodically changing one thing at a time so you know what has fixed it but i would start with a known good coil. Stuart. Edited January 15, 2007 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ken foster Posted January 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2007 Ken Best to go through it methodically changing one thing at a time so you know what has fixed it but i would start with a known good coil. Stuart. Thanks Stuart,regards ken Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 15, 2007 Report Share Posted January 15, 2007 Hi Ken, whilst attacking the coil don't forget the capacitor/condenser in the distributor - these can go temperature sensitive. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ken foster Posted January 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2007 Hi Ken, whilst attacking the coil don't forget the capacitor/condenser in the distributor - these can go temperature sensitive. Roger Thanks Roger, I forgot to say I replaced the capacitor,rotor arm and dizzy cap for new items. Regards ken. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Crawley Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 Ken You need to establish if it is the electrics causing problem or the fuel system; have you carried out a basic check for sparks when the problem occurs? Once you’re satisfied it’s not the ignition system then it could be one of a number of problems with the PI. It won’t be the shuttle seizing as this is a relatively loose fit in the rotor; the rotor itself runs a much finer tolerance but if that seized, I doubt it would ever run again; I’ve not heard of any seizure problems for a long time. Apart from the remanufactured M/U’s being sold with new shuttle/rotor units, the only difference between a leaded a & U/L M/U is the rubber used for the seals (Viton). I’m undecided if the remanufactured units (2 x the price) are good value or not & I’m currently running a Prestige U/L unit which uses the original rotor shuttle, I’ve not had any problems to date. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ken foster Posted January 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 KenYou need to establish if it is the electrics causing problem or the fuel system; have you carried out a basic check for sparks when the problem occurs? Once you’re satisfied it’s not the ignition system then it could be one of a number of problems with the PI. It won’t be the shuttle seizing as this is a relatively loose fit in the rotor; the rotor itself runs a much finer tolerance but if that seized, I doubt it would ever run again; I’ve not heard of any seizure problems for a long time. Apart from the remanufactured M/U’s being sold with new shuttle/rotor units, the only difference between a leaded a & U/L M/U is the rubber used for the seals (Viton). I’m undecided if the remanufactured units (2 x the price) are good value or not & I’m currently running a Prestige U/L unit which uses the original rotor shuttle, I’ve not had any problems to date. Excellent feedback thanks Richard Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andrew Smith Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 (edited) Hi Ken I had similar symptoms on one of my 6s in the 80/90s, it turned out to be the original inertia cut off switch on the bulkhead sticking open (albeit only marginally) – but it’s worth testing it. Cheers Andrew Edited January 16, 2007 by Andrew Smith Quote Link to post Share on other sites
davehop Posted January 16, 2007 Report Share Posted January 16, 2007 Hi Ken I noticed in one of your replies that you have replaced the dizzy capp, condenser, and rotor arm. this could be the problem. There was a thread relating to poor quality replacement rotor arms and dizzy caps a few weeks ago that made enlightening reading. Here's the link http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index....tributor+doctor best Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 I'd go with Ken - sounds like a dodgy rotor arm - there are loads of new rotor arms which are poor quality and have been responsible for lots of breakdowns! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JohnC Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 ...and there's an ad in TRAction 216 for rotor arms, claiming better quality than some other repros. Dunno - maybe worth a look? J Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david ferry Posted January 17, 2007 Report Share Posted January 17, 2007 That will be for Distributor Doctor (aka Martin Jay). I would trust Martin to be providing parts of a very high quality. If you have ignition electrics problems, Martin is the person to sort them out. In case you don't have access to his details, his phone number is 01398 361678. David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ken foster Posted January 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2007 Hi Ken I noticed in one of your replies that you have replaced the dizzy capp, condenser, and rotor arm. this could be the problem. There was a thread relating to poor quality replacement rotor arms and dizzy caps a few weeks ago that made enlightening reading. Here's the link http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index....tributor+doctor best Dave Thanks Dave, the rotor arm and dizzy cap were replaced to try to cure the problem.They were Lucas spares I've carried since 1990. I read the link too,it doesn't surprise me there are dodgy electrical perts around ,I had a rotor arm (from Moss) cause my wifes MGB to non function. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.