PodOne Posted April 17 Report Share Posted April 17 Hi folks 1969 PI distributor which I think is original which has being reconditioned by Dizzy Doc and fitted with electronic ignition. On examination it has a small knurled adjuster wheel I presume for advance/retarding the ignition. There is no vacuum connection/diaphragm. Does this actually do anything or do you have to turn the whole body to adjust? Thanks Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kevo_6 Posted April 17 Report Share Posted April 17 38 minutes ago, PodOne said: Hi folks 1969 PI distributor which I think is original which has being reconditioned by Dizzy Doc and fitted with electronic ignition. On examination it has a small knurled adjuster wheel I presume for advance/retarding the ignition. There is no vacuum connection/diaphragm. Does this actually do anything or do you have to turn the whole body to adjust? Thanks Andy Hi Andy, the vacuum connection should have a rubber plug over it and the knurled knob is as you say for advance and retard. A minute adjustment. IIRC there is an A one side and a R on the other. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted April 17 Report Share Posted April 17 (edited) 4 hours ago, PodOne said: Hi folks 1969 PI distributor which I think is original which has being reconditioned by Dizzy Doc and fitted with electronic ignition. On examination it has a small knurled adjuster wheel I presume for advance/retarding the ignition. There is no vacuum connection/diaphragm. Does this actually do anything or do you have to turn the whole body to adjust? Thanks Andy Yes that is correct arrangement. Lucas 41219 distributor. There is a blank end where the vacuum capsule could be. The knurled nut works in an identical way to those Lucas distributors with a capsule, it will advance or retard the points base plate when turned. Edited April 17 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 13 hours ago, PodOne said: Hi folks 1969 PI distributor which I think is original which has being reconditioned by Dizzy Doc and fitted with electronic ignition. On examination it has a small knurled adjuster wheel I presume for advance/retarding the ignition. There is no vacuum connection/diaphragm. Does this actually do anything or do you have to turn the whole body to adjust? Thanks Andy Hi Any, there is a difference on turning the distributor for the main adjustment (change the position of the pickups in relation to the distributor finger) and the final adjustment via the knurled adjuster (turning the braker plate). A friend of mine bought an electronic ignition, which was installed in a poor position on the braker plate. This was the reason why the braker finger did not line up with the pickups. This is why you should mainly adjust via durning the distributor in an advantage position, than finally via the knurled adjustor. And than check the relation of the finger to the pickups topossibly change the adjustment. If you need any more guidance please ask. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 Hi Marco, your comment made me think. There is indeed a difference between turning the entire body and turning the knurled nut! The latter changes the relative position between the finger and the dizzy cap pick-ups! So it is worth checking that the pick-ups are in line with the brass plate on the finger, not only at idle (static), but also when advanced. Would the below method be a sensible approach?: 1) Mark the exact position of one pick-up on the body (it does not matter much which one, but I suggest #1). 2)) Remove the dizzy cap and slowly rotate the engine (in running direction, I use 2nd or 3rd gear) until the points open. 3) The rotor brass strip should be opposite of the pick-up point. 4) Now advance the spindle (turn the rotor by hand against the advance springs) and check if the pick-up still aligns with the brass. If not: adjust using the knurled nut, and then re-adjust timing by turning the body. Does that make sense or is this non-sense? Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 (edited) Yes but No 2) doesn't work on a electronic ignition because it only works when dynamic This is why the moment the "points" open has to be checked on the mark on the crankshaft pulley 3) in the best case the left side of brass strip should line up with the pickup in the worst case it lines up with the right side of the brass strip and not anymore on full advance From my check years ago some photos: #1: "OK", but could be better (edit: perhaps starts loosing contact on full andvance) #2: Worse (edit: more likely loosing contact at full advance) #3: Poor (edit: loosing contact on full advance) Edited April 18 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 I think with a points system you just need to set the fine adjustment to the centre of its travel before setting the timing by rotating the body. There shouldn't then be enough travel in the adjuster to cause this problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 (edited) I have no worry with classic points... Edited April 18 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny TR6 Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 Hi Andy I had my dizzy converted to electronic by Martin (Dizzy Dr) and asked the same question regarding the knurled nut. He confirmed that it was now redundant. Might be worth pinging him an email just to confirm. He usually responds very quickly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Macleesh Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 I have Lumenition Electronic Ignition on my car and the knurled nut definitely moves the ignition timing whilst running as evidenced with my strobe light. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 Here was my dizzy before correction, I had to move it one or 2 teeth I think. The blue dot is #1 position. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 And this is after correction. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 Hi Waldi, when was before, did you have problems? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PodOne Posted April 18 Author Report Share Posted April 18 Thanks all for your feedback never given it that much thought until now. As Jonny suggests I'll drop Martin an e mail just to check that it is in fact redundant. Andy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 (edited) 57 minutes ago, PodOne said: I'll drop Martin an e mail just to check that it is in fact redundant. It's pretty obvious by inspection if you just remove the dizzy cap. If the electronic module is mounted on the same movable plate as used for the old points, with the spring from the adjuster to the spigot, the fine adjustment will be operative. If there's no link and the top plate is obviously fixed, it won't be operative. (I think this pic is a US spec dizzy - yours may have the adjuster the other way round) Edited April 18 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 18 Report Share Posted April 18 Once I met a Volvo SP 1800 guy, he was pretty amazed and jealous about this feature! Why should it not work and be usefull? On my 4A with ignitor 1 it works. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted April 19 Report Share Posted April 19 20 hours ago, Z320 said: Hi Waldi, when was before, did you have problems? The “before” was after engine overhaul, so while doing the pre-start up testing I noticed this and corrected it. So it never gave me trouble. Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted April 19 Report Share Posted April 19 Hi, "forget" my post above, please and sorry for any confusion: all is the other way round, the anticlockwise spinning finger moves clockwise to early. This is from my check with my Powerspark unit from 2020, installed with the knurled nut in the middle position. 1st adjusted with the timing light, then checked with the marks on my crankshaft pully. Next photo 4° BTDC (correct on the 4 cylinders) Next photo 24° BTDC, the finger moves clockwise (earlier) With my new Ignitor the position is a miimum more clockwise Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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