pfenlon Posted February 28 Report Share Posted February 28 (edited) Just bought a set of 4 mag wheels (Silverstone Racing Wheels) from a member. They need stripping and painting. Which media is safe for cast Magnesium, shot? soda? also any helpful suggestions will be well received. AND has anyone got an LT lead from points to coil for an AC deco Dizzy please or tell me where to buy one, TIA Pete. Edited February 28 by pfenlon Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted February 28 Report Share Posted February 28 I'd leave that to a specialist wheel refinisher. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 29 Report Share Posted February 29 Pete talk to Tony Sheach (TR4 Tony on here) as he has had quite a few of those wheels and knows the procedure on them. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david ferry Posted February 29 Report Share Posted February 29 This is the firm I've used in the past for a number of sets of magnesium ARE Silverstone wheels and I'm pretty sure that I'm not the only person here with to have used them. They did a great job, including crack testing, which is very important on these wheels. https://www.alloywheelrepairs.com/magnesium-wheels/ David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted March 1 Report Share Posted March 1 Recently, Tony Sheach had a number of his own ARE wheels, and 5 of mine, refurbished and powder-coated. The results are excellent. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4Tony VC Posted March 9 Report Share Posted March 9 Hi Pete The ARE mags are a soft mag alloy, so delicate shot blasting with plastic beads or nut shells is ok, steel shot isn’t. They need to be etched pretty much after blasting as the alloy goes off very quickly, and a top coat won’t stick well. The alloy is 60 odds years old and a bit of a mystery but a good alloy wheel repairer can weld them using a mixed content rod, so repairing cracks and dents is possible. The biggest issue is inside the wheel where you can’t see them - they are to a greater or lesser extent like an aero bar - badly corroded wheels wormhole inside so tend to be the ones that crack, either on the thickest part of the spoke or inside on the central part of the rim. The spoke is fixable, so far a knackered rim just isn’t. The only way you can tell is either x ray or dye testing - both not cheap, but there is not point in spending £150 plus on a wheel that’s a duff one. Diamond cutting of the outer face seems to work ok on good wheels if you want to do that - again someone who knows what they are doing should be able to sort. The stud holes to get mullered, so you need to use the correct shouldered nuts and pressure washers - cutting the oversize or chamfering them to use minilite nuts doesn’t work. Tried that and found out the hard way. You can drill out and sleeve the stud holes and have collets shrunk in like the original magnesium minilites, but £80 a wheel. Regards Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted March 9 Report Share Posted March 9 Regarding the Aero Bar hubs. Back in the early 90's a Dunlop engineer ask me to x-ray an aircraft hub for him that didn't 'feel' right. The radiograph was stunning - it really was like an Aero bar but then we are dealing with Aero space. Never seen one like it before or since. If you know anybody that works in engineering for an airline then have a word - they may have access to an X-ray machine. There are also 3rd party NDT companies that can do X-ray for a small price. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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