Richardtr3a Posted January 6 Report Share Posted January 6 My ignition red light on the dashboard does not turn off. I started the car today and it ran well. I am now planning to have the dynamo overhauled by a local company in Portslade Sussex. I remember doing this many years ago and took off the entire inlet manifold & carbs. This gave me enough access to be able to remove the dynamo. This was a long time ago and I am now looking for some advice on how to remove and refit the dynamo without interfering with the SU set up. Special spanners etc, ?? Any help would be very useful. Thanks Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted January 6 Report Share Posted January 6 (edited) You can remove and replace the dynamo without removing the carbs or manifold Richard - I did it more than once. It's a bit fiddly to reach the bottom fixing and I think I did remove the air cleaners and long rod linking the chokes. I seem to recall some of it has to be by feel, but do-able if you have the right spanners. Edited January 6 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted January 6 Author Report Share Posted January 6 Thanks Rob, The correct spanners would be old Imperial and will I need a whole afternoon ??? Thanks Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted January 6 Report Share Posted January 6 A UNF ring-spanner if I recall correctly, as don't think there is enough clearance at the rear for a socket spanner with ratchet drive. The ring spanner locates itself on the nut, which helps when you are working by feel. I think you have to get at both ends of the bottom bolt with a spanner on each end and it's easier if one of them sort of holds itself. It took about ten minutes - it's easier taking the dynamo off than putting it back, as then you have to align the bolt at the same time as supporting the dynamo ! The dynamo is heavy so be ready to take the weight. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 6 Report Share Posted January 6 (edited) 45 minutes ago, Richardtr3a said: Thanks Rob, The correct spanners would be old Imperial and will I need a whole afternoon ??? Thanks Richard & B Yes AF spanners. Except the possibility that the bolt screwed into the dynamo flange with the adjuster link might just be a BSW size. I find accessing the lower front dynamo bolt best done from below with a cranked ring or socket and ratchet. The fan belt gets in the way so release the top adjuster at both ends and the lower rear nut and bolt to allow a bit of movement perhaps… The dynamo comes out the gap between front carb and inner wing once the air cleaner is removed. I did it as a demonstration on the Moss TR3 at Lake Havasu Triumph meeting. Admittedly there is no steering column in that area on a left hooker. PS check tighten the front lower dynamo pedestal on the front engine plate. They come loose in service. Edited January 6 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted January 8 Author Report Share Posted January 8 Thanks for the replies. I will try today and see how it goes. Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted January 8 Report Share Posted January 8 Hello Richard, Are you sure it is the dynamo that is faulty? Wiring problems or regulator problems could also keep the red light on. Not sure what to do to test it out, (I have an alternator), but I'm sure Rob could give you some advice what to check. All a lot easier than replacing the dynamo. Charlie. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ewan2 Posted January 8 Report Share Posted January 8 Richard I recently took off the Dynamo as the front pedestal was loose and required a bit of work with oval holes etc. Once you have unbolted it it will come out through the front after removing the horn and radiator stay. Better to check out the electrics first. Ewan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted January 9 Author Report Share Posted January 9 I started the TR engine yesterday and the Ignition light was on continuously. So I changed the regulator for a new solid state instead of the old one which was always needing adjustment. A job that I have been planning for many weeks. I started the engine again and the red-light stayed on as before. It is time to change the dynamo itself. I spent almost one hour in the very cold garage and managed to remove the adjusting strip. The other bolts are hard to see and the flashlight on the iPhone refused to work. I was having difficulty seeing the mountings and lunch in the house was very inviting. Back out this afternoon, after a dog walk in the sun. Thanks for the help. Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted January 9 Author Report Share Posted January 9 Is there anyone on the Forum who has access to the dynamo on the engine in the workshop ? If they could try a socket that fits and let me know the size it would make the work a lot more possible for me. Please do not go out in the cold but if you can help it would be very useful. Thanks Richard & b Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 9 Report Share Posted January 9 38 minutes ago, Richardtr3a said: Is there anyone on the Forum who has access to the dynamo on the engine in the workshop ? If they could try a socket that fits and let me know the size it would make the work a lot more possible for me. Please do not go out in the cold but if you can help it would be very useful. Thanks Richard & b 1/2” AF if it has original fixings. Nuts/bolts. 30/33/34/37/39/42 Check 25 are tight also. The pedestal 27/28 you will have to rest when you have access. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted January 10 Author Report Share Posted January 10 Thanks for all the information. I will be searching my spanner collection because, many years ago, I may have had a ring spanner altered to fit in the available space. Today will be a step forward and I have a local dynamo repair specialist about 1/2 hour away. Thanks Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted January 10 Report Share Posted January 10 As you will be worjing close to the starter moter and on the dynamo itself, I suggest you disconnect the battery before you start - better not to accidentally cause a short circuit. Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted January 10 Author Report Share Posted January 10 Thanks, I will disconnect the battery. Out in the garage soon. Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted January 11 Report Share Posted January 11 I've removed the dynamo many times over many years. I remove the driver's side horn and radiator support for better access. 1/2" spanners for the rear and top bolts. For the rear bolt put a ring spanner on the bolt or nut (whichever is under the dynamo) with your right hand. A ring spanner or open ender and undo the nut/bolt where you can see it. When you refit it make sure you put the bolt in from the front so the nut is always visible. You can then visually check it is tight and it is easier to do the nut up/undo it than the bolt. Socket on a short extension for the front bolt. Refitting I do the rear bolt first then the adjusting bolt and nut, leaving both loose. Put the belt over the pulley (you might need to remove the rear bolt to get the belt over the pulley, put it back in to support the weight) then fit the front lower bolt. It is done by feel but it isn't difficult. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted January 24 Author Report Share Posted January 24 Today I had a friend to help me. He could only come , on the Wednesday, if there was no rain. After two days of serious wind and rain this morning was warmer and dry with no wind. It was looking hopeful at breakfast time. He had changed Dynamo before on TRs and had all the correct tools and experience. He arrived at 1.00 and was finished by 2.09. I ran the engine before he arrived and the dynamo became very hot. I emptied a small amount of water on to the hot Dynamo and it dried up immediately. How could it become so hot ??? I left him working on the car and he managed easily, including the wide fan belt !! The replacement is working well and the new regulator is strong and will never need any adjustment. This looks like it may be an end to regulator adjustment which has been going on for many years during my ownership of this TR Please let me know why the old Dynamo became so hot in such a short time. Thanks Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted January 24 Report Share Posted January 24 It will get hot if it is supplying a lot of current Richard - say to recharge the battery after starting - and don't forget it is close to the exhaust system and the engine itself too. That is why there are fins on the pulley and why the case has large holes front and rear for cooling air to be drawn through. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 24 Report Share Posted January 24 Accepting the above if it got very hot then there could be a fault inside it to cause much current to flow within it's self i.e. a shorted turn (insulation break down on the windings) this would be unusual,but possible. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted January 26 Author Report Share Posted January 26 I have delivered my original Dynamo to a specialist who will strip it down and let me know what he finds.The car is running well so he will fit in my problems when he has time. He said about two weeks. I will leave him alone until he reports back. These experts are becoming hard to find ??? Clear sky and no wind means a trip out in the TR at lunchtime and a road test of the electrics. Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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