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About ewan2

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    1954 TR2
    Ford Mustang V8

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  1. Well all thats given me food for thought. I will not be looking at the cheap £30 pound replacements but order an ADR electronic unit with screw terminals so as it looks correct. Many Thanks to you all for your advice. Ewan
  2. Thanks for the reply My experience of the Lucas control boxes on cars during the 1970's and early 1980's was they were not too good so I think I will look for an electronic one but which one? Has any one had experience of the replacement units recently. Ewan
  3. What is the best option to replace a comtrol box recondition or electronic. My Tr2 has had a made in Japan control box for over 30 years. It has been reliable but a corroded connection has melted the base I have done a temporary solder repair but see there are many options. I have an RB 106 control box but it does not work. I run a dynamo and it is positive earth. Thanks in anticipation Ewan
  4. Phil Welcome to hours of fun with a TR working on them and driving. You will also need an accelerator pedal and linkage. They are fairly easy to copy and fabricate if you cant get one from other sources. Ewan
  5. I was holiday today as I had been planning to go to the lakes weekend. It has been chancled and accomodation is very thin on the ground so we are not going. It is only the last two years we have missed. I have attended every lakes scince 1991 in the TR till last year. Took the car out this afternoon once the rain had stopped. It was running great plenty of power and sounded normally loud. Thanks all for your advice Sue hope you enjoy Whitehaven then Scotland. Ewan
  6. Every thing back together but only started after I found the fuel tap handle was broken and needed a spanner to turn it on it is a Revington fuel Tap and the handle broke. Did a compression test after setting the tappets and carbs. came up 180 180 170 190 front to back. Will re check the tappits tomorrow and put in new plugs I think it is sorted for now but need to plan for a full rebuild sooner than later. Mick thanks for the detailed advice even if I did not follow it all. Ewan
  7. I took the valves out of the head and they looked poor so I have ground them in the exhaust's took a bit of work. three of the exhaust's had very thin seats and were pitted they looked much better after grinding in. I then cleaned everything and after replacing the valves put the head back on last night should see tomorrow how it goes. Two points I did look at the bores and the are worn and wavy near the top and the valve guides are worn but will look to tackle these at another time. One worry is I noted the block is cracked at the front right stud you can just see it in
  8. Mick ntc Valves inserts and guides were fitted when the head was reworked. I was thinking of putting the head back on and doing a compression test but maybe I will look at the head first since you thought the petrol test was too fast. I have a new gasket now and dont mind taking the head off again it off again if I need to look at the bottom end but if we start on that the engine will end up coming out . I will see if there is a ridge in the bore. I have found a few other problems To be sorted including a failed cork seal on the front Carb. Looking at Rogers po
  9. Mick The liners for 1 and 2 are about 10 thou 3 and 4 7-8 thou the bores measured at about mid height with an ancient micrometer these are in inches but it was difficult to be accurate I have no experience of using these. from the front 1 3.431 3.429 2 3.430 3.432 3 3.437 3.427 4 3.430 3.429 the top diameter was consistent at 3.427 petrol in the cylinder heads too a good hour or two to drain with number 4 faster taking about an hour I have looked at the tappets they were OK and they did not need adjustment. Ewan
  10. Sue I got an Email from Wayne yesterday saying the Lakes are cancelled for this year. Roger Mick The plugs looked normal but sooty when I took them out they are NGK genuine. The problem may be progressive As it did not run well without the choke until fully warm for a while. it would hesitate and misfire until fully warm but there was no lack of power.
  11. Mickey Thanks for your detailed response I know what Is did was a big mistake but will find a way back. I have done all the work on the TR since I got it in 1990 it was a bit rough at the time it ran fine and has been on the road every year. I have learnt to work on cars from 17 and have basic tools the car is used most days in the summer and driven to the conditions fast when the roads are clear. I rebuilt the engine in 1991 with the crank reground and new 87mm pistons and liners not much else was changed at the time the head was done later with new valves guides and seat
  12. It was running badley hot and cold very badly at about 1500 revs better at higher and lower engine speeds hills were needing a change of gear and the sound was like a box of bits. Oily smell . I checked the sparks and timing and that both carbs with fuel were synchronised all were normal. I know i was a bit hasty taking the head off but there you are. Ewan
  13. My TR2 started running poorly miss firing and a lack of power. I suspected a Head gasket failure after running normal diagnostics ignition OK carbs OK. I took the head off The gasket looks OK as do the valves etc at first look there is a fair bit carbon and oil consumption may have gone up recently. I intend to take the valves out and examine but this may not be my problem. Any Ideas I did not do a compression test as I dont have a tester cant do it now. Cheers Ewan
  14. I managed to get the wishbone back with the bush in the wishbone. By warming the bush in hot water, lubricant and a big screwdriver to lever it in . It was not too bad but took some paint off on the way. some cars more clearance than others mine was only a problem on one side. Ewan
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