Richardtr3a Posted December 31, 2023 Report Share Posted December 31, 2023 Hi, I had very similar problems on my H6. I fixed the choke cable to the front carb only so the rear carb choke was never moved. I moved the new solid state cable to a new position on the dash so the it ran straight to the H6 and did not have to run round the heater fan. Then I fitted an expanding spring from the H6 connection on the front carb to the inner front wing so that when the cable was pushed back in , after removing the clothes peg !! , the choke was fully off. I also keep special SU adjusting small spanner in the car but have not needed to use it for many months I carried out some overhaul work on the SUs , including some special Viton seals and also upgraded the spark plugs. I can find the details if you are interested. They cost about 28 quid a set of 4, but they run hotter and do not soot up. Let me know if you need any further help ? Good luck in the new year from Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted December 31, 2023 Report Share Posted December 31, 2023 14 hours ago, Smithfire67 said: It's not great that's for sure....but I'd always cut it some slack for being 64 years old. I’m sure others will interject, but low to mid 30’s mpg is easily achieved, even with a 4.1:1 diff in my car. (I’m not known for hanging around either.) Iain Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted December 31, 2023 Report Share Posted December 31, 2023 (edited) Agreed, & on a couple of occasions when travelling to the IWE (lots of motorway work) I got 42MPG from my TR3. Local only driving it's nearer 28 - 30 Bob Edited December 31, 2023 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR Rob Posted December 31, 2023 Report Share Posted December 31, 2023 Just checked the operation on my H6 carbs, and my choke, although a bit stiff pulls out about 1”. On checking at this full extent the jet head has dropped about 10mm, pushing the choke back in all returns to normal. Cable is then slightly slack. Is this normal ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted January 1 Report Share Posted January 1 23 hours ago, TR Rob said: Just checked the operation on my H6 carbs, and my choke, although a bit stiff pulls out about 1”. On checking at this full extent the jet head has dropped about 10mm, pushing the choke back in all returns to normal. Cable is then slightly slack. Is this normal ? Sounds to be working as designed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smithfire67 Posted January 1 Author Report Share Posted January 1 On 12/31/2023 at 8:59 AM, Richardtr3a said: Hi, I had very similar problems on my H6. I fixed the choke cable to the front carb only so the rear carb choke was never moved. I moved the new solid state cable to a new position on the dash so the it ran straight to the H6 and did not have to run round the heater fan. Then I fitted an expanding spring from the H6 connection on the front carb to the inner front wing so that when the cable was pushed back in , after removing the clothes peg !! , the choke was fully off. I also keep special SU adjusting small spanner in the car but have not needed to use it for many months I carried out some overhaul work on the SUs , including some special Viton seals and also upgraded the spark plugs. I can find the details if you are interested. They cost about 28 quid a set of 4, but they run hotter and do not soot up. Let me know if you need any further help ? Good luck in the new year from Richard & B Very kind Richard.....which tupe of plugs were they? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted January 1 Report Share Posted January 1 I will check tomorrow. It is too cold and wet at the moment. Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ralph Whitaker Posted January 2 Report Share Posted January 2 I changed from NGK BP6HS to BP5HS which is a hotter running plug, and that cured my plug fouling. In Champion the standard plug is an L10, and the hotter plug is L11. Different manufacturers list their heat ranges differently, with NGK the number goes down as the plug gets hotter, with Champion the number goes up for a hotter plug. In my local car shop the NGK plugs were £3 each. Ralph Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 2 Report Share Posted January 2 I did the same a while back, but since re-building the engine have gone back to the correct heat plug. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted January 2 Report Share Posted January 2 I have just checked the garage and could not find the boxes for the plugs. So I took one plug out and I have an answer. My plugs are Iridium Power DENSO IWF 20 Japan. I will check the gap later. They have been in the car for some years and there has been no cleaning required. When the sun comes out I will be replacing my Regulator RB106 with a modern version. Good luck with the plugs Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John McCormack Posted January 5 Report Share Posted January 5 My two bob's worth. The majority of carbie problems are ignition or engine breathing. About 90% in my experience. The engine must be in tune before the carbies can be tuned. Do the tappets to ensure the engine is breathing properly. Do the plugs, points (if fitted) and timing. Make sure that all the ignition components like leads, distributor cap, plugs etc are in good working order. Set the ignition timing, I start it about 10 degrees advanced at idle and fine tune it on the road. Having done all that you can now tune the carbies. Make sure the piston drops with a nice clunk and that there is a suitable oil in the chambers. Balance the carbies with a meter. I did it by ear for years and then found my hearing was not as good as I thought. Then, and only then, can you set the mixture. Do it as per the manual by lifting the piston and checking for rpm changes. Take the car for a good drive and set the timing to just avoid pinging, and then retard a couple of degrees to make sure. After a high-speed run check one front and back plug and adjust the mixture accordingly. You should be all set. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smithfire67 Posted January 7 Author Report Share Posted January 7 On 12/30/2023 at 6:03 PM, BlueTR3A-5EKT said: In this photo the chokes are closed. The jet is fully up against the jet height adjusting nut ( mixture setting) Pull the choke wire and see what happens to the jets on your car. They should return to the position as sen in the photo If there is a gap between the jet nut and the jet fork, which the big brass lever is pinned to, then the choke wire needs slacking to allow the jets to go fully up/home. Had a good couple of hours actually looking at the choke cable set up today. Managed to take a bit of slack out of it but it looks as though the control rods are still slightly to the left on mine compared with the picture that blueTR3 posted? I can see why moving the position of the choke would be beneficial....going round the heater fans as stated isn't great. Clive Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.