Heavy breathing

[Lebro]

Multicore is still the usual stuff to use, only these days it tends to lead free. You can still get it in lead / tin though, ebay etc

Bob

[RobH]

Leaded electrical solder is 60% tin 40% lead so a bit harder than pure lead but it still squashes pretty easily.   Cored solder for electrical use has non-corrosive flux and is still readily available in leaded and unleaded versions - the 'Arax' acid fluxed cored solder is for plumbing and metal-work only and those acid fluxes should not be used for electrical work, as you can never be sure all the flux has been removed.  If there is residue left in a joint it will cause corrosion in time. 

 

 

Edited October 20, 2023 by RobH

[Nigel C]

quick update. Not managed to get to far as my back has gone (again) and so couldn't get in the car if I wanted to! Did manage to drive my oil burner down to Silverstone see friends racing and had a great time. There was some fantastic machinery in the paddock/pits.

Will let you know how things progress. I did have a conversation with a good friend of mine and he pointed out that the studs I'm using have a slot ground into the side of the thread to allow gases/liquids to exit the blank hole during assembly....it also will allow liquids to exit whilst running! 

 

[Motorsport Mickey]

Good practice from Triumph specifying their studs correctly. It’s an “ anti hydraulic” protection for the stud threads.

If you use enough PTF tape upon the last 3 turns it screws into the stud threads and then into the machined slot blocking it, and hopefully any water transference also.The lead linger finishes the sealing at the top of the stud under the washer.

Mick Richards

[Nigel C]

So, now I have my head above water again (pardon the pun) I can report back on my latest fiddlings.

Thanks to Pete for supplying me some lead linger I have now cooked up the following Wheeze.

I decided to drain the water system down and clean/dry out the offending blind hole. After that I took the stud out and tapped a small amount of lead linger into the "anti hydraulic slot" and gently filled/pressed it into the threads and tried it down the hole.

 

All seemed good, only a slight resistance (which may have been the hole thread re cutting the lead linger). When happy this was not under any great stress I dropped down about 1ml of K-seal into the hole and followed it up with the stud.

 

My thinking was it would push the K seal into the offended crack(s) as the stud was wound in. I felt no real difference when I did wind it in and it settled in the same position. I then torqued it down. 

The lead linger is amazing how it squeezes out under pressure! I used a scribe tool to cut and remove all the wastage from around the washer (just in case/knowing my luck) and ran the car down to Gaydon as I had an appointment with the archive dept.

Got back and wanted to check the car whilst hot. Took the rocker cover off and there was still "foam" on the underside. I have reduced the hole in the fitting from the inlet manifold to 1.5mm dia and the inline catch tank on the breather had less volume in it (which you would expect). What was there was mainly water not oil (as previous) so I think that is now better balanced.

Put my "all new pressure tester" on the system and there seemed to be no more leaks from this stud....for now... but still disappointed/concerned as to the foam in the rocker cover. 

I did also change the oil as it I felt it was not in the best shape with the moisture that has been knocking about. There was a drop of water ( I think) came out before oil when I removed the drain plug ( the car had been sitting for a few weeks and though it the best approach).

There looked to be slight contamination in the new oil after the Gaydon run but I guess this could be residual trace from the oil cooler lines etc (as it got hot enough to open this up) so I guess I will just see how it goes 

Thanks for all your collective inputs so far and any further thoughts would be appreciated (laughter emojis are optional)

[Michel Higuet]

So the bloc motor is OK, head gasket too and your problem is a head cracked or a cracked bloc  with good head  and head gasket. You think there is a crack in the bloc and water comes via the head stud on top of the head gasket if I understand well.

I have no opinion on K-Seal just find this :

https://www.kwecars.com/jaguar-tech-centre/coolant-sealants/

Edited November 12, 2023 by Michel Higuet

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

22 hours ago, Nigel C said:

So, now I have my head above water again (pardon the pun) I can report back on my latest fiddlings.

Thanks to Pete for supplying me some lead linger I have now cooked up the following Wheeze.

I decided to drain the water system down and clean/dry out the offending blind hole. After that I took the stud out and tapped a small amount of lead linger into the "anti hydraulic slot" and gently filled/pressed it into the threads and tried it down the hole.

 

All seemed good, only a slight resistance (which may have been the hole thread re cutting the lead linger). When happy this was not under any great stress I dropped down about 1ml of K-seal into the hole and followed it up with the stud.

 

My thinking was it would push the K seal into the offended crack(s) as the stud was wound in. I felt no real difference when I did wind it in and it settled in the same position. I then torqued it down. 

The lead linger is amazing how it squeezes out under pressure! I used a scribe tool to cut and remove all the wastage from around the washer (just in case/knowing my luck) and ran the car down to Gaydon as I had an appointment with the archive dept.

Got back and wanted to check the car whilst hot. Took the rocker cover off and there was still "foam" on the underside. I have reduced the hole in the fitting from the inlet manifold to 1.5mm dia and the inline catch tank on the breather had less volume in it (which you would expect). What was there was mainly water not oil (as previous) so I think that is now better balanced.

Put my "all new pressure tester" on the system and there seemed to be no more leaks from this stud....for now... but still disappointed/concerned as to the foam in the rocker cover. 

I did also change the oil as it I felt it was not in the best shape with the moisture that has been knocking about. There was a drop of water ( I think) came out before oil when I removed the drain plug ( the car had been sitting for a few weeks and though it the best approach).

There looked to be slight contamination in the new oil after the Gaydon run but I guess this could be residual trace from the oil cooler lines etc (as it got hot enough to open this up) so I guess I will just see how it goes 

Thanks for all your collective inputs so far and any further thoughts would be appreciated (laughter emojis are optional)

I have just re read this post.    Is your head cast iron?   It looks nice and clean.    Do not forget that aluminium heads are tightened to a lower torque than cast iron originals.

[Z320]

Sorry, why?

[Nigel C]

Yes Michel the coolant is coming up the one of the studs, I pretty sure the head gasket is hold (fingers crossed) I have had some history with these for the last 10,000 miles of this engine but this leak is at least visible. 

 

Yes Pete the head should torqued down to 65lb. I have, in the end torqued it down to 75lb

[Michel Higuet]

3 hours ago, Nigel C said:

Yes Michel the coolant is coming up the one of the studs, I pretty sure the head gasket is hold (fingers crossed) I have had some history with these for the last 10,000 miles of this engine but this leak is at least visible. 

 

Yes Pete the head should torqued down to 65lb. I have, in the end torqued it down to 75lb

But what test have you done to determine if the leak come from the bloc motor or the head or you don't know?

Personally I didn't knew this old tools 

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/auto-care/vehicle-maintenance/how-to-do-a-leakdown-test#:~:text=You will need a compressed,to be tested at TDC.

 

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

4 hours ago, Nigel C said:

Yes Michel the coolant is coming up the one of the studs, I pretty sure the head gasket is hold (fingers crossed) I have had some history with these for the last 10,000 miles of this engine but this leak is at least visible. 

 

Yes Pete the head should torqued down to 65lb. I have, in the end torqued it down to 75lb

Moss say 70-75 Ft Lbs torque

https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/cylinder-head-assy-complete-standard-aluminium-514748a.html

 

[Nigel C]

thanks for that Pete, I was told from a couple of sources and so took it as gospel but really felt it was low compared with the pressure the iron head puts on the liners.

here's one for you, I've drained out the inline catch tank and the water that's in there (separated from the foam) is perfectly clear. The coolant is 50/50 with blue antifreeze. Would you expect to see this water clear or with a blue tinge to it due to the vaporisation process eliminating the blue dye element?

 

[stuart]

37 minutes ago, Nigel C said:

thanks for that Pete, I was told from a couple of sources and so took it as gospel but really felt it was low compared with the pressure the iron head puts on the liners.

here's one for you, I've drained out the inline catch tank and the water that's in there (separated from the foam) is perfectly clear. The coolant is 50/50 with blue antifreeze. Would you expect to see this water clear or with a blue tinge to it due to the vaporisation process eliminating the blue dye element?

 

If its clear then its just water vapour and not antifreeze, taste it if its sweet then its antifreeze

Stuart.

[Nigel C]

On 11/13/2023 at 4:40 PM, stuart said:

If its clear then its just water vapour and not antifreeze, taste it if its sweet then its antifreeze

Stuart.

good point...or are you trying to mess with my taste buds 

[Nigel C]

forgot to post my last test.....tastes sweet to me 

[stuart]

On 1/19/2024 at 7:27 PM, Nigel C said:

forgot to post my last test.....tastes sweet to me 

Oh dear

Stuart.

[Nigel C]

Just a thought, has anyone known a four pot block to fracture/crack from the water jacket to push rod aperture of cylinder no4?