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clutch cross shaft problems


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Removed the gearbox from my TR4. Release bearing made grinding noises and need changing.
When checking I noticed the fork tips have quite a bit of play to the groove of the release bearing sleeve. So I wanted to remove the fork and clutch cross shaft.

Observation #1: there is no locating screw "locating shaft in bell housing" (#21 in the picture).

Observation #2: the "pin bolt fork to clutch shaft" is broken (#23 in the picture). 

It may be that the missing locating screw was the cause for the pin bolt to break. Whatever the reason, I now cannot remove the cross shaft from the bell housing because the remaining tip of the pin bolt in the shaft is till there. Which keeps the fork in its place on the shaft. I cannot drill out the remains as the bolt hole (bottom of the shaft) is inaccessible for a drill. 

Seems I have to destroy the cross shaft (cut it) as I cannot see a means to get it out in one piece. Maybe someone has a smart idea?  

 

Naamloos.jpg

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Hi Badhius,

The locating bolt  #21 is not necessary (the TR6 does not have one - same set up)

The taper bolt #23 does break (very annoying). 

Replace with as best quality you can find (TRShop does good ones)  AND fit another (Extra) bolt at 90 degrees to help the taper bolt  - a roll pin works well.

The broken piece of taper pin is stopping the fork coming off.  Drill a hole in the fork above where the pin should be and knock the piece out.

Have the fork pins got flat spots?  the pins can be replaced OR a new fork fitted.

 

Roger

Edited by RogerH
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1 hour ago, John Morrison said:

Don't mess about with trying to save that cross shaft.

Buy a new one, - -no risk, then best tapered pin you can get and cross drill it and fit a 4mm roll pin.

Last a lifetime then.

+1 -just bin the cross shaft & as for the roll pin t doesn't even need to b as big as 4mm - just drill & put it into cross sheer - 3.5mm+ has never failed for me.

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1 hour ago, MichaelH said:

Please indicate where you would cross drill and put in the roll pin

I assume it would be 90'out and to the side?

MichaelH

Michael

this is mine. Not a roll pin but another cross bolt - as you say 90 deg to the original

3ADACB7E-D5A0-4A63-BE22-15121B27B23C.jpeg

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496408810_Drillingclutchfork.thumb.jpg.76186aabdfdd3258b7c6091773f479dd.jpg 2023052562_SafetyHTbolt.thumb.jpg.a4b054343f6694fb4aeed908113ddae1.jpg 50707201_Smallholetoputpunchiniftaperboltbreaks.thumb.jpg.b70cb5a9ef7fb8d1b6ace049bc795804.jpg

 Drilling cross hole                                   Bolt fitted                           drilling hole for punching out taper pin in case it snapped in the future (was lucky this time)

I used a high tensile cap head bolt.

Bob

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8 hours ago, Lebro said:

496408810_Drillingclutchfork.thumb.jpg.76186aabdfdd3258b7c6091773f479dd.jpg 2023052562_SafetyHTbolt.thumb.jpg.a4b054343f6694fb4aeed908113ddae1.jpg 50707201_Smallholetoputpunchiniftaperboltbreaks.thumb.jpg.b70cb5a9ef7fb8d1b6ace049bc795804.jpg

 Drilling cross hole                                   Bolt fitted                           drilling hole for punching out taper pin in case it snapped in the future (was lucky this time)

I used a high tensile cap head bolt.

Bob

Wow that's what I call a drill machine, don't expect to see mine here...  :-)

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Great - Thank you

It is always obvious to those that know, but the pictures show it exactly.

Will copy it next time I am at a gearbox!

Everyday is a school day!

MichaelH

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