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  • Location
    Tilburg, Netherlands
  • Cars Owned:
    63 TR4, 66 2000 Mk1, 70 GT6+, 73 Stag

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  1. But there seem something strange. Over the years I have always looked into LHD TR4s to see if it had an OD switch - by looking at the inboard side. Usually not, most American delivered cars I have seen are without OD. My car (LHD) has the turn control on the door side, the car my brother bought a year ago in Los Angeles has the same. There are lots of USA TR4s on Ebay and Hemmings, I had a look and they ALL have the turn indicator on the door side! Curiously I looked in the handbook and yes - it "should" be on the other (inboard) side. But why have all these USA TR4s them on the other side? I understand they may not be original anymore, who knows what happened over the years etc., one or two might have switched position over the years but surely not all????
  2. I printed a sheet of all sizes, metric / UNF / WW in ascending order and fitted it to a post of the car lift. Very helpful if a size needed which is just a bit more or less. Often a metric / UNF / WW spanner will fit. I use it all the time because I can never remember if for example 7/16" is just a bit bigger or smaller than a 11 mm spanner!
  3. badhuis

    hood pegs

    I bought new pegs and lift the dots for my car years ago but found out they do not have "lift the dot" inscription in them. More reason to keep the old ones.
  4. Only got my drivers license a few years ago. Then looked out for a nice old bike but chickened out - they need more attention than I am willing to give, looking at my fleet of attention-hungry cars. So I bought a "modern" Bonneville. Well, not exactly very modern - it is one of the first new Bonnies from feb 2001. Got lucky, the PO needed to get rid of it. I do not use it much. when the weather is fine and I need to go somewhere I much rather jump into the TR4 instead of pulling on weather gear, helmet etc and get on the bike. Not sure I keep it, on the other hand it does not take much space and does not need much attention so why not.
  5. Just replaced my old Varta battery. It lasted over 14 years. Replaced by Bosch which is the same as Varta. https://www.batteriesontheweb.co.uk/bosch-versus-varta-batteries/
  6. My car became noisier over the years. Cut open the middle box and all the packing was gone. I filled with stone wool (house isolation stuff, available at DIY stores) and welded it shut. Excellent sound again, not too loud. So far so good (done a couple of months ago).
  7. badhuis

    Battery life

    Talking of battery life. The test station (APK yearly test) commented that the battery on my Jaguar X-type was still its original - from 2004! Another big battery (Varta) I have bought in 2002 or 2003 is still used in other cars, amazing. I had to replace the battery in the TR4 three times in its lifetime with me (21 years). New one fitted summer 2015.
  8. 14" steel wheels would not be my first choice for a Saloon wheel as the tyres get more difficult to buy (and are getting more expensive). There is so much more choice for 15" wheels. There are some pictures of Mk1 Saloons wearing TR6 wheels and I always wonder if the Mk1 hubcap could be made to fit a TR6 wheel. As for the TR4/TR4a: my preference go to the standard steel wheel with hubcap (same as on my TR4). Whatever you choose please do not fit the minilites. These seem to be on more than half of all restored TR s, plus on all MGs, Spitfires, Minis etcetera etcetera. They are just too much around.
  9. Are your floats leak-free? I had a pinhole in one of the floats a few months ago.
  10. I was thinking about the same lines - TR6 wheels with hubcaps on my 2000 Mk1. But not so sure now seeing the picture of the wheel. Seems the hubcap is a distance from the wheel? I would prefer to have it against the wheel.
  11. Fitted these last weekend and can recommend it to anyone. The car always had a bit of air in the pedal despite bleeding it twice with a helper but now it is gone. Very easy to use: put a piece of plastic film under the master cylinder cap, then replace all bleeding screws with the new ones. One by one put a tube (with the other end in a jar) on a bleeding screw, open it a quarter of a turn, push the pedal a couple of times until the brake fluid level in the master cylinder gets almost to the bottom, refill master, repeat to other screws. All done within 15 minutes I think, only me involved, and a nice hard pedal after.
  12. What is the standard screw thread for the rear brake cylinder bleed screw? Is it 5/16" - 24 ? For the TR4 but I guess it is the same for the whole TR range which is why I am posting it in the general Tech forum. I think the front bleeding screws have the same thread, correct? Thinking of using Speedbleed screws - those with an internal spring. Anyone who has experience with these? You can leave these open (quarter turn) when bleeding which makes the whole bleeding process much easier. Or so they say. As I always have a little bit of air in the brake system, despite thorough bleeding with a helper, I thought about having a go with these. https://www.demon-tweeks.com/eu/goodridge-speed-bleeder-243452/
  13. To the test station where it got a pass for the next two years
  14. Overkill, yes indeed. How far can you go? Having a WL for the fan can already be classed as overkill but still I wanted it. Happy as it is now, no need to complicate things further.
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