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  • Location
    Tilburg, Netherlands
  • Cars Owned:
    47 Roadster, 63 TR4, 66 2000 Mk1, 70 GT6+, 73 Stag

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  1. Why? He wanted the car for 25 years just to sell it as parts? Strange
  2. Did Dolomites have power steering? If you are looking to have your 4A with PS, maybe better or easier to put in an electric conversion. There are some topics here about that.
  3. I have successfully put in a TR4a frame and hood on my TR4 as that was the part I hated most on the car. It came to the point that I hesitated in taking the car out when the weather forecast predicted rain because I hated setting up the top. Now, I do not care what the weather forecast is because it is easy to put up or down the top.
  4. Thumbs up for the hose that Peter had made. He thoroughly investigated what was needed for a good quality top hose and had some made.
  5. No default position of course. But for the purists, your mirror is too new, and black of course. Typical 70s TEX mirror but was not available when the TR4(a) was in production so would never have been fitted when new. The Lucas type Efuentes is showing was period and fitted (by the importer or the dealer) on lots of British cars exported to the USA. My 1967 Jaguar 420 has one since new (Californian car). My TR4 (also California) has a bullit type mirror fitted on the drivers side front wing since new.
  6. I was always struggling with the top front end under the windscreen top lip. If it was successful, the top was very good and tight. It got so far that I dreaded to have to put on the top (when it got raining while underway) and waited to take it off again. Then took the trouble of fitting a TR4a top and frame. So, so much easier now. Recommended for anyone who prefers usability over originality.
  7. When I parked the TR4 in the garage yesterday I thought I smelled petrol. And yes, wet with petrol under one of the SU carburettors. Switching on the engine I saw a disturbing drip drip drip from the overflow pipe. So, took the lid off the float chamber and checked. Needle seems OK. Took the float out and yes, it was half full of petrol. Luckily I had a new one on the shelf. Three years ago I had a leak in the other float, I bought two new then. I even found the old float (I had written "leak" on it). What would be the cause of a leaking float? Checking both failing floats, I canno
  8. What was that then? Did it cover the auctions from Ebay and CarAndClassic as well? I know of this one https://www.glenmarch.com/cars/upcoming?make=370
  9. I am sure the weight of the added welding to the HB lever is more than the weight saved by the drillings of the pedal
  10. Topic can be closed, no deal was made. Ownership papers were vague. Original chassis number plates were gone. No way to make sure the papers (copies, not originals) belong to the car. Which makes it near impossible to get the car registered here in the Netherlands.
  11. Yes, but. Saloons are pretty rare in the Netherlands. Also, having had a few Saloons over the years I always disliked the idea that good Saloons were cut up just to save the engine and overdrive.
  12. Now why did I not think of Jac (who runs Loco)! I have known him for a long time, lives local to me (20 kms). The first years he did not have much Triumph parts but the last few years he seems to have bought many second hand spare parts. Thanks for reminding! Electric conversion is still far too expensive at the moment I think. Not possible under €10.000 so out of the question for me.
  13. Tomorrow I will be looking at a cheap, rotten TR4 without engine/gearbox. Might bring it back with me. I already have a nice very original TR4 which I will never sell. Plan for the "new" car is to get it back on the road without too much money involved, I will do most of the work myself. But what to do regarding engine and box? Best would be to source a TR4 engine and box, not sure if these are hard to find or not. I do not want to fork out thousands for a engine/gearbox. Knowing the car will never be a showroom example, I might try something different. Any ideas?
  14. You could buy a complete unit (steering column with EPS fitted) from one of the suppliers or DIY. If DIY the biggest hurdle is to mount the EPS unit to the column shaft. You have to cut the existing shaft, remove the EPS length from it and weld the EPS in and outcoming shafts to the old shaft cut ends. Not that difficult but it needs to be done with care and the welds should be perfect (deep enough). Alignment should be straight as well. We did these when mounted in a lathe. Then, take car to mount the EPS unit. It needs to have extra support from the firewall to be able to take the
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