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badhuis

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badhuis last won the day on August 3 2019

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  • Location
    Tilburg, Netherlands
  • Cars Owned:
    47 Roadster, 63 TR4, 66 2000 Mk1, 70 GT6+, 73 Stag

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  1. My vote is for original wheels with hubcaps. Discussion about wheels with pictures here: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/67658-dunlop-m-type-wheel-and-tr4a-world-hubcaps
  2. Never knew that! Explains what the remains are (of a strap) on my tonneau cover. How was this strap fixed to the tunnel? Lift-the-dot? There is no hole or LtD pin on the transmission tunnel metal.
  3. ^^ That's what I always had when I had the old TR4 top. Could not bother to remove the tonneau cover all the way. Also, it is practical because you can put stuff behind the seats while driving without fearing they may fall out / fly away
  4. And it is not only on TRs. Jaguar also up to the 70s. I read somewhere it was a gentlemans agreement back in 40s or earlier. Smiths / Jaeger would not make Ammeters, that was unique for Lucas to do.
  5. ? A TR4 hood does not have a front header rail. Are you sure you are talking about a TR4 and not TR4a which has a very different hood (with front header rail)?
  6. And you only see it when the top is up, which (in my case) is only when it rains. Then it is not exactly the time you would spend to admire the appearance of a soft top
  7. badhuis

    New Tr4 owner

    And from another ex-Californian TR4 ('63) owner: you are not allowed to ask anything before posting pictures
  8. Ideally I should finish it all off. For the B posts I would like to find second hand black rear quarter covers because I think I have to modify them in order to fit my car (the 4a has different side panels, my car still has the TR4 side panels). Also looking for the small aluminium end covers (red arrows on the pic) and it would be perfect if I could find a 4a hood bag.
  9. A short note to say that I am very pleased with the "conversion" of the TR4 to TR4a top. So much more easier to use! I did find out that the frame I got secondhand is slightly twisted. This is not problem when the top is up but it means the folded frame bends a little more to the left than to the right. Also, and maybe because of this, the frame tends not to stay in the fully folded position. Easily corrected with two straps either side. The original bottom screw on the B post can be re-used, a new hole needs to made in order to fit the rearmost bolt of the triangle. The other bolt disappears in the big hole that the TR4 has there, so I used a thick flat piece of iron with a nut welded to the rear.
  10. On a different note - I started looking at this topic and wondered why the original poster had chosen a picture of a cross section of a certain type of door rubber or such. Then I noticed
  11. badhuis

    4a Rebuild

    Interesting thought Charlie. But a "driving restoration" also has its disadvantages. I bought my TR4 in 1995 and immediately started using it. Over the years I repaired and replaced many things, always trying to keep the car on the road. It has been off the road for a couple of years about 15 years ago when I could not decide to do a respray or not. If a respray how far would I go? There are lots of examples where a car got dismantled and took years and years (or never) to get back in one piece. In the end I only had the outside resprayed (removed the wings though) and am happy with it. Always improving also means always to have a niggle about a thing or two. Yesterday I removed bits of underseal at the LH rear wheel arch as there were loose pieces. Luckily no rust underneath, just the original paint. So the original underseal worked well for its 56 years. That said, I always only drove/drive the car in dry weather because I knew the underseal was dry and loose - water in-between could get nasty. I know I have some "fun" days ahead of me removing the underseal and applying something new (or maybe not). I also know I can never really proper remove all underseal - that would mean lifting the body off the chassis. Then you could blast the body and, and, - but then it would become a major undertaking which is not what I want. If I would have had a proper restored car however I would not mind so much in taking the car out in wet weather.
  12. If you used a longer bolt with two more nuts, the bolt could still turn in the lever hole. Bolt head / washer / hole for the pin / washer / nut <-- these firmly tightened against each other. Then space for the lever and two nuts firmly tightened against each other.
  13. Thanks Waldi, I will now do the same with my vent lid. It still has the closed cell rubber instead of the "proper" rubber (which as you experienced need much trimming).
  14. But there seem something strange. Over the years I have always looked into LHD TR4s to see if it had an OD switch - by looking at the inboard side. Usually not, most American delivered cars I have seen are without OD. My car (LHD) has the turn control on the door side, the car my brother bought a year ago in Los Angeles has the same. There are lots of USA TR4s on Ebay and Hemmings, I had a look and they ALL have the turn indicator on the door side! Curiously I looked in the handbook and yes - it "should" be on the other (inboard) side. But why have all these USA TR4s them on the other side? I understand they may not be original anymore, who knows what happened over the years etc., one or two might have switched position over the years but surely not all????
  15. I printed a sheet of all sizes, metric / UNF / WW in ascending order and fitted it to a post of the car lift. Very helpful if a size needed which is just a bit more or less. Often a metric / UNF / WW spanner will fit. I use it all the time because I can never remember if for example 7/16" is just a bit bigger or smaller than a 11 mm spanner!
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