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  • Location
    Tilburg, Netherlands
  • Cars Owned:
    47 Roadster, 63 TR4, 66 2000 Mk1, 70 GT6+, 73 Stag

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  1. Sorry about confusing the thread. My car has the earlier type of carburettors with a completely different method of choke mechanism.
  2. I have the same problem on my TR4 for years. In my case it is not what you pictured but it is about the levers underneath the carburettors. A pull on the choke knob means a lever pulls down the needle housing in the carbs. This works well although it needs a firm pull. Pushing in the choke know is another matter - it does not go in far enough. I never could get the levers push up the needle housings back far enough, it always need a manual push home (and then the choke knob would go back home too). This push up / pull down action just has too much friction it seems and I cannot get that to go smoother. I have replaced the cork seals with Vitron seals, and replaced other things which I thought might help but to no avail.
  3. Sorry to hear this. Of course a decline in health is a perfectly good reason to sell. Hope you can still enjoy your 911 for as long as you may wish.
  4. Why did you sell? I got my TR4 in 1994 and do not think I will ever sell it. There must be a VERY good reason for selling. Of course that can be many. Loss of eyesight, wooden knees, dementia.
  5. That may be but the style is more in line for the 60s style the TR4(a) is. The other, more commonly used Tex model is typical seventies and too bulky for 60s cars in my opnion. Regarding that 70s style mirror: I bought a new second Tex mirror 12 years ago because my 2500 Mk2 only had one (since new). After only two years the stem of the newer mirror has much oxidation. Unlike the original from the seventies which was still good. I bought mine from Tex directly. They have many more styles available: https://texautomotive.com/classic_exterior_mirrors.html
  6. The IRS is one of the reasons I choose NOT to buy a TR4a but a TR4 instead 27 years ago. My Herald at the time ate U/Js every few months it seemed and my 2000 Mk2 was not without problems at its rear end too.
  7. My vote is for original wheels with hubcaps. Discussion about wheels with pictures here: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/67658-dunlop-m-type-wheel-and-tr4a-world-hubcaps
  8. Never knew that! Explains what the remains are (of a strap) on my tonneau cover. How was this strap fixed to the tunnel? Lift-the-dot? There is no hole or LtD pin on the transmission tunnel metal.
  9. ^^ That's what I always had when I had the old TR4 top. Could not bother to remove the tonneau cover all the way. Also, it is practical because you can put stuff behind the seats while driving without fearing they may fall out / fly away
  10. And it is not only on TRs. Jaguar also up to the 70s. I read somewhere it was a gentlemans agreement back in 40s or earlier. Smiths / Jaeger would not make Ammeters, that was unique for Lucas to do.
  11. ? A TR4 hood does not have a front header rail. Are you sure you are talking about a TR4 and not TR4a which has a very different hood (with front header rail)?
  12. And you only see it when the top is up, which (in my case) is only when it rains. Then it is not exactly the time you would spend to admire the appearance of a soft top
  13. badhuis

    New Tr4 owner

    And from another ex-Californian TR4 ('63) owner: you are not allowed to ask anything before posting pictures
  14. Ideally I should finish it all off. For the B posts I would like to find second hand black rear quarter covers because I think I have to modify them in order to fit my car (the 4a has different side panels, my car still has the TR4 side panels). Also looking for the small aluminium end covers (red arrows on the pic) and it would be perfect if I could find a 4a hood bag.
  15. A short note to say that I am very pleased with the "conversion" of the TR4 to TR4a top. So much more easier to use! I did find out that the frame I got secondhand is slightly twisted. This is not problem when the top is up but it means the folded frame bends a little more to the left than to the right. Also, and maybe because of this, the frame tends not to stay in the fully folded position. Easily corrected with two straps either side. The original bottom screw on the B post can be re-used, a new hole needs to made in order to fit the rearmost bolt of the triangle. The other bolt disappears in the big hole that the TR4 has there, so I used a thick flat piece of iron with a nut welded to the rear.
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