roy53 Posted October 5, 2023 Report Share Posted October 5, 2023 I have been asked if having a tank acid dipped would be ok and remove internal rust.? Anyone tried this ? I have used small gravel and by shaking the tank cleaned it but takes a lot of effort to get ever last piece out with the baffles holding bit back. Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianc Posted October 5, 2023 Report Share Posted October 5, 2023 In 1997, I had problems with small particles blocking the gauze filter of my pump. I used Slosh Tank Sealant (see my article in TR Action 144 (Jan/Feb 1998, also in section K3 of the Technicalities CD) and, once the residual particles in the petrol pipe had been flushed through, have had no problems - 26 years is a pretty good test! Ian Cornish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Steve-B Posted October 6, 2023 Report Share Posted October 6, 2023 Roy, Our 50 year old tank was acid washed then relined earlier this year by a local specialist Triumph garage. Having put our iPhone boroscope down the filler neck, it looks almost brand new and I've seen nothing show up in our pre-pump filter. I was told if you acid wash best to reline. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Pope Posted October 6, 2023 Report Share Posted October 6, 2023 4 hours ago, Steve-B said: Roy, Our 50 year old tank was acid washed then relined earlier this year by a local specialist Triumph garage. Having put our iPhone boroscope down the filler neck, it looks almost brand new and I've seen nothing show up in our pre-pump filter. I was told if you acid wash best to reline. Sort of +1. Did this on an old Triumresin Roadster and simply bought a resin product for re-lining fuel tanks. Poured it in and sloshed it around for a bit. Simple and that was 10+ years ago and all seems well still. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
roy53 Posted October 6, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2023 It was more the vehicle acid strip type process we were thinking. The type where they dip the whole thing in acid to strip all paint etc. Roy Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR4Tony VC Posted October 6, 2023 Report Share Posted October 6, 2023 Hi Roy, don’t do that - there is residue that gets left and is very hard to shift. I had 5VC’s original banded tank blast cleaned (it had a big hole in the bottom so getting the steel shot out wasn’t a problem) then pickled, which is a cleaning process that effectively etches the surface. It turns it green as I recall. Anything that involves a chemical or washing out leaves a residue - even pyrostripping. After that I had it primed and wet painted, but inside you can still see the green tinge, so it’s sat for at least 8 years with minimal fuel it it and as new. I have also many years ago done a 4a tank in what was an Eastwood tank coating thing - that also didn’t work as it peeled off inside, probably due to poor preparation on my part. That’s why I haven’t done it again. Regards Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted October 7, 2023 Report Share Posted October 7, 2023 I did the tank in my 4a when I got it 30 yrs ago by taking it to one of my haulier friends and steam cleaning it out with the steamer on its hottest setting, blew it out with compressed air and then dried it out completely with a space heater running full blast into it. Then used the Slosh sealant that Moss used to get from the US and that worked fine until I changed it for an ally one last year to allow a return feed in case I ever got round to fitting the EFI kit I have.. Prep is everything. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted October 8, 2023 Report Share Posted October 8, 2023 Instead of putting the tank in acid, you could put acid in the tank. It's worked pretty well for me a few times. Here's one: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-63/TR6-63.html Ed  Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted October 8, 2023 Report Share Posted October 8, 2023 13 hours ago, ed_h said: Instead of putting the tank in acid, you could put acid in the tank. It's worked pretty well for me a few times. Here's one: http://bullfire.net/TR6/TR6-63/TR6-63.html Ed  Very helpful.  Thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted October 8, 2023 Report Share Posted October 8, 2023 I'm sure I remember from my mis-spent youth that dipping steel objects into a strong solution of copper sulphate would result in a very thin layer of copper being deposited on the steel. I wonder if that thin layer would be sufficient to prevent rusting, if applied to a rust-free tank interior. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pontious Posted October 8, 2023 Report Share Posted October 8, 2023 On 10/5/2023 at 6:45 PM, ianc said: In 1997, I had problems with small particles blocking the gauze filter of my pump. I used Slosh Tank Sealant (see my article in TR Action 144 (Jan/Feb 1998, also in section K3 of the Technicalities CD) and, once the residual particles in the petrol pipe had been flushed through, have had no problems - 26 years is a pretty good test! Ian Cornish +1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted October 9, 2023 Report Share Posted October 9, 2023 9 hours ago, stillp said: I'm sure I remember from my mis-spent youth that dipping steel objects into a strong solution of copper sulphate would result in a very thin layer of copper being deposited on the steel. I wonder if that thin layer would be sufficient to prevent rusting, if applied to a rust-free tank interior. Pete The electro-less copper from that process is VERY thin, and adhesion isn't great, so it won't offer much lasting protection. Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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