Smithfire67 Posted September 28, 2023 Report Share Posted September 28, 2023 Evening Will I need to buy a pair of new filters/ housings if I want to merely replace the actual filter element? Are they sealed units or can one remove said element? 70 quid is a bit steep! TR3a with SU H6 carbs Many thanks Clive Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 28, 2023 Report Share Posted September 28, 2023 Hi Clive Which filters do you have. There are an assortment. On the Moss WebCat it shows a wire element that can be cleaned with Air Filter spray (brake cleaner) Is it the K&N filter - clean with their own special cleaner (NOT petrol) Throw away paper filter. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted September 28, 2023 Report Share Posted September 28, 2023 Original filters could not be taken apart, you just rinsed the wire mesh with a solvent (parafin etc) I don't think they actually did much filtering ! Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smithfire67 Posted September 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2023 9 hours ago, Lebro said: Original filters could not be taken apart, you just rinsed the wire mesh with a solvent (parafin etc) I don't think they actually did much filtering ! Bob This is a pic of my air filters. Washable? Clive Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted September 29, 2023 Report Share Posted September 29, 2023 (edited) Yep, that's all you can do. Bob. Is that thin brass pipe for a vacuum gauge ? If it is for vacuum advance then it's in the wrong place ! Edited September 29, 2023 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted September 29, 2023 Report Share Posted September 29, 2023 After you have washed and dried them spray them with light oil. Its the stickiness of the oil that is supposed to catch any dust passing into them. Hence the washing with parafin etc. when dirty. Charlie. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smithfire67 Posted September 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2023 1 hour ago, Charlie D said: After you have washed and dried them spray them with light oil. Its the stickiness of the oil that is supposed to catch any dust passing into them. Hence the washing with parafin etc. when dirty. Charlie. Do you remove them from the black metal housing.....or wash the whole thing? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 29, 2023 Report Share Posted September 29, 2023 They may not come apart - so wash with housing. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smithfire67 Posted September 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2023 9 minutes ago, RogerH said: They may not come apart - so wash with housing. Roger Thanks Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smithfire67 Posted September 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2023 2 hours ago, Lebro said: Yep, that's all you can do. Bob. Is that thin brass pipe for a vacuum gauge ? If it is for vacuum advance then it's in the wrong place ! I can only assume that is a bad thing Lebro? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted September 29, 2023 Report Share Posted September 29, 2023 If it connects to the distributor, then yes it's a bad thing ! The vacuum advance pipe should connect to a fitting on one or the carburetters. I 79 in the above picture on the front carburettor. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smithfire67 Posted September 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2023 1 hour ago, Lebro said: If it connects to the distributor, then yes it's a bad thing ! The vacuum advance pipe should connect to a fitting on one or the carburetters. I 79 in the above picture on the front carburettor. Bob I take it you mean this one Bob? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted September 29, 2023 Report Share Posted September 29, 2023 Yes that is the one. It should be connected close to the carb butterfly so that it gets closed off by the butterfly when the throttle is shut. The take-off point may have been blanked off on your carb though as otherwise it would leak air into the manifold. With the take off where it is, there is a high vacuum all the time when the throttle is shut, so the dizzy will be advanced which will affect idling. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smithfire67 Posted September 29, 2023 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2023 2 hours ago, RobH said: Yes that is the one. It should be connected close to the carb butterfly so that it gets closed off by the butterfly when the throttle is shut. The take-off point may have been blanked off on your carb though as otherwise it would leak air into the manifold. With the take off where it is, there is a high vacuum all the time when the throttle is shut, so the dizzy will be advanced which will affect idling. So if it is going to the distributor as suggested what damage may have been incurred? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted September 29, 2023 Report Share Posted September 29, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, Smithfire67 said: what damage may have been incurred? None - it just alters the ignition advance at idle. If you use a timing 'gun' to set the advance at idle with the pipe connected, the overall setting when running will be retarded. Edited September 29, 2023 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smithfire67 Posted October 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2023 On 9/29/2023 at 10:31 AM, Lebro said: If it connects to the distributor, then yes it's a bad thing ! The vacuum advance pipe should connect to a fitting on one or the carburetters. I 79 in the above picture on the front carburettor. Bob Just checked where that pipe terminates and yes, it feeds into the distributor. Are there any diagrams with it in the right place, As a note, I changed the plugs today and they were quite sooty. Although tick over isn't too bad? Clive Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 1, 2023 Report Share Posted October 1, 2023 The vacuum pipe runs along with the fuel pipe around the front of the engine and then dips down under the front carb to connect to this point roughly below the throttle spindle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smithfire67 Posted October 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2023 12 hours ago, RobH said: The vacuum pipe runs along with the fuel pipe around the front of the engine and then dips down under the front carb to connect to this point roughly below the throttle spindle. Thanks for the pic. Why on earth has it been fed into the distributor? I get the feeling that if I returminate it to the carb then it'll have a knock on effect on the set up. Equally it can't stay where it is if it's incorrect. Clive Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Charlie D Posted October 2, 2023 Report Share Posted October 2, 2023 (edited) You have got the wrong end of the stick. (Actually, the wrong end of the pipe.) Distributor end stays where it is . Other end goes to the carb. Charlie. Edited October 2, 2023 by Charlie D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 2, 2023 Report Share Posted October 2, 2023 (edited) 29 minutes ago, Smithfire67 said: I get the feeling that if I returminate it to the carb then it'll have a knock on effect on the set up. The only thing it might affect is the timing, and not even that if you timed the engine with the vacuum pipe disconnected as you are supposed to. The pipe transmits the vacuum at the throttle plate, to the advance module on the distributor. On low throttle setting / high vacuum when cruising, the dizzy module advances the ignition to give better economy. The throttle disc closes off the vacuum port at idle, when the dizzy does not require it. An engine will run happily without the vacuum pipe ( provided the take-off point has been blanked) but might use a bit more fuel. The position on the manifold where your pipe originates is the wrong position as the pipe never gets closed off making the timing too advanced at idle. Also the vacuum will be too high. Edited October 2, 2023 by RobH typo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smithfire67 Posted October 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2023 1 hour ago, RobH said: The only thing it might affect is the timing, and not even that if you timed the engine with the vacuum pipe disconnected as you are supposed to. The pipe transmits the vacuum at the throttle plate, to the advance module on the distributor. On low throttle setting / high vacuum when cruising, the dizzy module advances the ignition to give better economy. The throttle disc closes off the vacuum port at idle, when the dizzy does not require it. An engine will run happily without the vacuum pipe ( provided the take-off point has been blanked) but might use a bit more fuel. The position on the manifold where your pipe originates is the wrong position as the pipe never gets closed off making the timing too advanced at idle. Also the vacuum will be too high. So not only does it finish in the wrong place, it also starts in the wrong place! I think the distributor is a aftermarket item...is there a chance this random engineering is part of a particular set up that is necessary for it to work.....I trying to rationalise here. Clive Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted October 2, 2023 Report Share Posted October 2, 2023 (edited) Not sure what you mean by 'finish in the wrong place'. The standard TR distributor has a vacuum advance capsule like this. The thin copper pipe leading from it on the left is the vacuum pipe going to the carb.: Edited October 2, 2023 by RobH Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rocketman Posted October 2, 2023 Report Share Posted October 2, 2023 On 9/28/2023 at 8:34 PM, Smithfire67 said: Evening Will I need to buy a pair of new filters/ housings if I want to merely replace the actual filter element? Are they sealed units or can one remove said element? 70 quid is a bit steep! TR3a with SU H6 carbs Many thanks Clive These cone (K&N Style 56-9327 Classic Mini filter) aftermarket filters work well and at £25 each a huge difference from genuine K&N. some may criticise the none genuine article but on my car it replaces open trumpets so any filtering has to be better than none Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smithfire67 Posted October 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2023 2 hours ago, Charlie D said: You have got the wrong end of the stick. (Actually, the wrong end of the pipe.) Distributor end stays where it is . Other end goes to the carb. OK. So where it eminates from is wrong on my car? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Smithfire67 Posted October 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2023 Sorry about my confused question chaps....I get it now. Anyone know why it appears to be taken from what I think is the inlet manifold? Is that how it was done on later TRs? Clive Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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