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Ugrading lights all round on a TR2


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I accept that I’m lucky that my particular flasher unit works with my choice of bulbs but I suppose the point I’m making is try it first before you rush out and buy a new flasher unit.

Oh, and my headlamp reflectors are standard H4 ones and the beam pattern with my new LED bulbs is (as stated by Bob) virtually identical to the halogen version, just brighter.

And a word of advice on fitting new bulbs, before I started I switched on my headlights and traced the beam pattern on my garage wall. I know that this pattern is acceptable because the car was MoT’d in June. After fitting the LED bulbs, I could compare them with what I had previously - and I wrongly thought I could get away with tweaking the offside one up a bit.

Rgds Ian

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Hi Peter!  I do want to use Bob’s LED kit on my 2, especially for the dim single brake light.  I’m thinking of doing the LED headlamps too, although I am afraid it would only highlight the wonky aim of my high and low beams.  Wouldn’t have to worry about snow melt, however.  Regarding build date, I had to scurry and check my build certificate and lo and behold my car was also built on the very same 26th of May!.   15 behind, not 17, as I am obviously poor at math!  Sorry to drift the thread but that is a pretty amazing coincidence!

Cheers

Dan

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  • 1 month later...

Just to report further on my upgrade to LED.

I have now fitted Lebro's LEDs to all lights apart from the main headlamps. Bob (Lebro) has been really helpful in providing his excellent LED solutions and with loads of very useful advice about fitting them - I now have side lights, indicators and brake lights (three!) that make me much more visible than before and am really pleased with the result. Just need to decide what, if anything, to do about the main headlights - could go for LED or halogen but either will need new fittings - see Lebro's suggestion earlier! Just need to ponder that for a bit.

Big shout out for Bob (Lebro) whatever! 

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On 9/10/2023 at 12:16 PM, Lebro said:

 

Good idea to fit modern (relatively !) lamp units with H4 bulb fittings. They don't have to be specificaly for LED bulbs, Ones designed for halogen bulbs work fine with decent LED bulbs. (Thats what I have (lamp units are Valeo) & the beam pattern is pretty much identical to with halogen type fitted.

These are what I have :

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/latest-led-headlights-h4-philips-z-es-hi-lo-beam-conversion-9-32v?variant=8239030763615

Bob

Hi Bob,

I have moved in to trying to sort out my headlamps. I thought I’d start by working out why I don’t have any high beam - thought that should be relatively simple but …. of course not!

I thought maybe the floor foot switch might have failed but thought I start by checking power the the headlamps - oddly, I have constant power to both contact nodes and the foot switch makes no difference.

I presumed the two different contact nodes power the separate elements in the bulb and the foot switch would power up the second contact node but it seems not. I’ve checked the bulb elements which are viably intact and registering a complete circuit with a multimeter. There is some milky discolouring to the inside of the bulbs but surely that can’t affect one element but not the other - if the bulb was blown  presumably both elements would not work rather than just the one?

I’ve checked the earthing which is good.

Am I missing something blindingly obvious?

Thanks for your help

Cheers

Peter

 

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Sounds like either the foot switch is not working as it should, or the wiring is incorrect.

I would start at the foot switch, it should have three wires going to it:

Blue  from the main light switch, 2nd position

Blue with red stripe  this goes to the dipped headlight bulb contacts

Blue with white stripe this goes to tye headlamp main beam bulb contacts & the main beam warning light in the bottom of the speedometer

If you have a volt meter, check the volts on all three at the dip switch.

Blue should always have 12 Volts if the main switch is on position 2

either blue red, OR blue white should have 12 Volts depending on the dip switch state, i.e. pressing the switch till it clicks should swap the voltage over.

If this is true, then dip switch is ok, but need to look at the wiring after the switch.

Bob

Edited by Lebro
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  • 5 weeks later...

Hi Bob,

It has taken me a while to get around to checking the dipped beam switch but now I have I discover that I have 11 volts on all three of the connections and this doesn’t change on clicking the switch.
Even though that’s clearly wrong I would have thought that would have meant continuous high beam - but although it’s difficult to tell, I think I have continuous low beam!

incidentally I get 12.5v straight from battery to earth so there’s clearly some loss with lights on as would be expected?

Grateful for any thoughts please. I suppose I could disconnect one or other of the blue/red or blue/white wires to see what difference that makes?

Cheers

Peter

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44 minutes ago, roy53 said:

can you fit LED into tripod headlights ?

Yes provided the bulb is not the 'projector' sort with axial light from the end, and also provided the bulb body is not too long so it doesn't foul the tripod.  Most are for H4 fitting on the headlamp unit, not BPF.  

These will work for H4 headlamps according to one of the reviewers  -  "Fitted to a 1958 MG MAGNETTE, with tripod lenses, fitted great and give a much improved light. Easy to install and adjust.":

https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/products/pair-of-warm-white-led-headlights-h4-hi-lo-beam-conversion-9-32v-excellent-beam-pattern

There are BPF LED bulbs around mainly for vintage and motorcycle market but I think they are lower-powered (43/36W equivalent):

https://www.s-v-c.co.uk/products/p36dled-s30-warm_white_premium_12_24v_led_headlamp_-bpf_dc_p36d_base-p36dled-s30

 

(No company connections)

Edited by RobH
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1 hour ago, PeterPost said:

Grateful for any thoughts please. I suppose I could disconnect one or other of the blue/red or blue/white wires to see what difference that makes?

Power comes in from the main light switch on the blue wire. That should have full battery voltage on it. 

It sounds as though you may have a failed dip-switch. You could test out the connection by pulling all three wires off the dip-switch and connecting blue to  blue/red for dipped beam or blue to blue/white for full beam.  ( Be careful to avoid any short circuits to earthed metal  while doing this and insulate the connection. )

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On 11/21/2023 at 5:01 PM, RobH said:

Power comes in from the main light switch on the blue wire. That should have full battery voltage on it. 

It sounds as though you may have a failed dip-switch. You could test out the connection by pulling all three wires off the dip-switch and connecting blue to  blue/red for dipped beam or blue to blue/white for full beam.  ( Be careful to avoid any short circuits to earthed metal  while doing this and insulate the connection. )

Hi Rob

Actually having now tested it fully it is on permanent high beam - i.e. continuous power to high and low simultaneously - so looks like the switch has failed but curiously failed to permanently on - would that make sense?

Cheers

Peter

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  • 2 months later...

I am looking to upgrade the rear lights on my TR2 which is positive earth. I would like to keep the original layout although the centre single brake light may not be the best idea. Can you get orange indicators I have seen some advertised.

I will send Bob a PM for details. 

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39 minutes ago, RogerH said:

Hi Ewan

Bob has the answers.

 

Roger

Indeed I believe Bob is your man for this. Helped me enormously. As for amber/orange indicators …. my new LED combined sidelights and indicators show amber when indicating and white when just sidelights and through the same lens but obviously that lens is itself opaque to clear so amber shows - this wouldn’t work through the rear lens which is red!

Peter

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2 minutes ago, PeterPost said:

this wouldn’t work through the rear lens which is red!

Remember that with LEDs, if you have a coloured lens you must use the same colour LED bulb.  

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On 11/27/2023 at 7:41 PM, PeterPost said:

Thanks Rob, I have now changed the switch and it's all working exactly as it should. Very grateful for your help. Peter

Once had mine short out at night in the New Forest 40 years ago…..sparks everywhere under my foot and no lights! 

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4 hours ago, ewan2 said:

I am looking to upgrade the rear lights on my TR2 which is positive earth. I would like to keep the original layout although the centre single brake light may not be the best idea. Can you get orange indicators I have seen some advertised.

I will send Bob a PM for details. 

PM replied to !

Bob

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  • 2 weeks later...

I received a package of LED's from Bob last week and fitted following his instructions yesterday all working apart from one side at the rear is less bright.

I think it is probably due to a poor earth connection which I will remedy. The existing contacts and holders were in poor condition and needed cleaning and fettling to make good contact. 

Thank you to Bob for his skill and ingenuity to provide members with these conversions.

Ewan Henderson 

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 Do both lights get brighter when brakes are applied ?

If not check wiring goes to the right terminals on the bulb holder. If ok, then:

1st step I would suggest is to swap the bulbs from side to the other  & see if the problem follows the bulb,or stays on the same side.

Bob.

P.S.   Thanks :wub:

Edited by Lebro
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