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Having rebuilt my steering bushes changed the steering wheel (look in For Sale i have a motor-lita  wood rim steering wheel ) I now have the problem that the horn either bips on its own when turning left or is continually on !!!!. When I was feeding the inner column down the outer column I was careful to make sure all wires didn't snag the column any suggestions. 

Because I have run out of time this week and at a car show on Sunday I have disconnected the horn in the wiring harness and will for the time being just wire it thru a switch.

 

Phil

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Hi Phil

Maybe you have the steering wheel boss too close to the slip ring that the horn push connects to. Trying moving steering wheel up a fraction by loosening the top splined clamp on the column in the engine bay and pulling steering wheel up a touch. A couple or so mm may be enough. Re-tighten clamp afterwards.

Keith

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On my TR4 with woodrim wheel,  I gave up decades ago with horn blowing or not as it wished.

As the Comps Dept didn't fit the long wand overdrive switch to the Works' TR4s (they used the TR2/3 overdrive switch mounted on the dash), I mounted a lever switch on the righthand side of the steering column to operate the horn.

And when I installed Revington's logic overdrive, with a small piece of bracketry, I managed to fit this switch alongside the horn switch, but at a different angle of dangle.

Ian Cornish

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yep even with pulling the steering wheel out by over 10mm from the column I was still getting the horn going off. So I,ve fitted a switch were the am/m/w radio was. Eventually I will be wiring a proper auxiliary fuse box in so will have another look at it then. 

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The cowl hasn’t come loose by any chance (the part that the plastic covers for the indicators/lights/OD switches attach to?)

They are a press fit and had worked loose on the 4A. This resulted in the slip ring earthing intermittently when turning.

Fixed with a couple of pop rivets.

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24 minutes ago, Andy Moltu said:

The cowl hasn’t come loose by any chance (the part that the plastic covers for the indicators/lights/OD switches attach to?)

They are a press fit and had worked loose on the 4A. This resulted in the slip ring earthing intermittently when turning.

Fixed with a couple of pop rivets.

Yup....had exactly the same thing, also fixed with rivets.

 

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If the purple/black wire that attaches to the slip ring becomes detached from the slip ring and floats around inside the steering column, it can short to earth causing horn to operate. Had this happen once on a Lakes weekend a few years back. Had to solder wire back onto slip ring.

Keith

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Hi Phil, when I had a similar issue I found that the horn contact between the push and the ring plate was at too long an extension and so the brass bar was fully out and slipping onto the steering column when turning.  I had to push the plastic tube in further and then extend/bend the push contact accordingly.

Mark

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8 minutes ago, MKTR said:

Hi Phil, when I had a similar issue I found that the horn contact between the push and the ring plate was at too long an extension and so the brass bar was fully out and slipping onto the steering column when turning.  I had to push the plastic tube in further and then extend/bend the push contact accordingly.

Mark

There are longer pencil contacts available to deal with this issue.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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I found the problem was insulating the steering wheel rim from the ring, tried adjustment but it introduced play that i didnt like so i reverted to insulation tape around the lip of the bezel but this soon rubbed away. Then had a thought that the ring was exact circumference of the gearbox rear oil seal that did the job perfectly. Not had a problem since and the play is perfect, very solid.

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On 7/12/2023 at 9:43 AM, ianc said:

On my TR4 with woodrim wheel,  I gave up decades ago with horn blowing or not as it wished.

As the Comps Dept didn't fit the long wand overdrive switch to the Works' TR4s (they used the TR2/3 overdrive switch mounted on the dash), I mounted a lever switch on the righthand side of the steering column to operate the horn.

And when I installed Revington's logic overdrive, with a small piece of bracketry, I managed to fit this switch alongside the horn switch, but at a different angle of dangle.

Ian Cornish

Mine is still playing up with intermittent operation! What would I need to do to wire in a separate switch like yours Ian? What wiring would I need? Thanks.

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Find the wire which goes to the horn button, disconnect it and then connect it to a switch mounted wherever suits you.  If wire not long enough, solder or crimp an extension, making sure that it cannot accidentally earth itself!

 From the other side of the switch, run a wire to earth - the screw connections on the hood covering the switches for trafficators or overdrive switch should provide a convenient earth.

The photo is of my 2 switches on the right of the column - the upper is for logic overdrive (needs movement of just a very few millimetres in any direction), the lower is for the horn.

The pair are mounted on a short length of perforated steel strip, which one can find at Wickes or a motorist's shop.

Ian Cornish

IMG_1139-1280.jpg

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22 minutes ago, ianc said:

Find the wire which goes to the horn button, disconnect it and then connect it to a switch mounted wherever suits you.  If wire not long enough, solder or crimp an extension, making sure that it cannot accidentally earth itself!

 From the other side of the switch, run a wire to earth - the screw connections on the hood covering the switches for trafficators or overdrive switch should provide a convenient earth.

The photo is of my 2 switches on the right of the column - the upper is for logic overdrive (needs movement of just a very few millimetres in any direction), the lower is for the horn.

The pair are mounted on a short length of perforated steel strip, which one can find at Wickes or a motorist's shop.

Ian Cornish

IMG_1139-1280.jpg

Many thanks Ian.

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