nigelcurry Posted June 23, 2023 Report Share Posted June 23, 2023 Hi all i have been trying to align my door and I have been told that the drivers side rear needs jacking up after undoing some bolts and fitting shims or spacers,I know this sounds a bit vague but this is not to difficult!!.I wonder if any of you guys with the knowledge could enlighten me please regards nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted June 23, 2023 Report Share Posted June 23, 2023 Photo of the issue would help Nigel John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nigelcurry Posted June 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2023 I know John but the information was given to me by Garry out ofTRGB and although he explained as fully as he could I wasn’t looking under the car as he was telling me,if that makes sense.I was just hoping that one of you guys would know or at least have a guess at what he was trying to explain and perhaps give me an idea of the size (difficulty) of the job nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted June 23, 2023 Report Share Posted June 23, 2023 sounds like body shims Chef Tush has a video on you tube to bring the gaps together if it helps if that is what TRGB meant ??? David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nigelcurry Posted June 23, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2023 That could well be it I will check it out thanks guys nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted June 23, 2023 Report Share Posted June 23, 2023 Ah that does make sense now. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted June 24, 2023 Report Share Posted June 24, 2023 You'll find that it's tricky to get to the rear most body mount to shim but not impossible. There is a bumper bracket attached to the chassis leg and rear wing, all these bolts should be loosened too, and will also be the limit to how much you can add shims before you can't get the bolts back in. You may also find you can adjust the gap between rear wing and door by undoing the rear wing, and adding a spacer where it attaches to the b pillar (usually at the bottom where the gap tends to be less). Everything is a compromise, you move one thing, it changes something else, so you need to find that best compromise. Here is my passenger door after adjustment, I changed the position of the door, wing and shimmed the rear to achieve this. Lower picture was before I started, middle was during and top was how I finished. Nothing is perfect, but I'm a lot happier with it now. Gareth Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Malbaby Posted June 24, 2023 Report Share Posted June 24, 2023 Jacking up the rear as suggested MAY be answer....but not necessarily so. Pics would be of great assistance...Showing top, bottom gap and sill clearance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dblenk Posted June 25, 2023 Report Share Posted June 25, 2023 i have just sorted mine due to chassis sag the distance to the rear against the distance to the top of the door has a 2:1 ratio so its moves quite a bit at the rear to close a little at the top of the door (lever) i did have a 15mm gap !!!!!!!! down to 5mm so i had about 40mm packer at the rear so cut the chassis leg and adjusted lots of factors come into it condition of chassis flex on one side could be different to the other side, wing fitment, door fitment, sill fitment If you want concours type gaps then i think wings etc to be removed and start from there but i just want my car to be a club car as i have the 5 to rebuild so got it reasonable at 5ish mm horses for courses The lads above are correct photos and dimensions posted would give us an idea of what you want to achieve david Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nigelcurry Posted June 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2023 Thanks for all of your advice and information,after looking at the YouTube films and digesting the advice given by you guys this may be a question of pay (am assuming lots of dosh) a body shop to fix this or frankly live with it. The bottom of the trailing edge of the door doesn’t seem to lay flat with the bottom of the back wing it sort of stands proud! but having just got it back from the body shop for a re spray (I said I would hang the doors)I may yet have another go Once again thanks to all of you guys nige Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elclem1 Posted June 30, 2023 Report Share Posted June 30, 2023 Do you need to twist the door slightly to align? Stuart mentioned this a while ago on another thread. block of wood etc not a process to be rushed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jonny TR6 Posted June 30, 2023 Report Share Posted June 30, 2023 (edited) 5 hours ago, elclem1 said: Do you need to twist the door slightly to align? Stuart mentioned this a while ago on another thread. block of wood etc not a process to be rushed I did this on my car and although I didn't use Stuart's method, the principle's the same. I stripped the door cards and windows out (just in case they affected anything) and then from inside the door aperture, I pushed out using one hand at the top front of the door and pulled in, with the other hand at the bottom of the door on the outside. Effectively you're putting a twist in the door. This will probably result in a couple of cracks at the top front and rear of the door frame, where the glass drops down. I had mine welded up and dressed for £10 and am currently in the process of filling/priming/painting. Very pleased with the results as I wouldn't have been able to live with the sticky out bottoms and the minor repairs are a damn sight cheaper than getting a body shop to do it. The doors are quite twistable, so you can do it bit by bit until you're happy. Best done without door seals and if you have fur flex, swap them for the flap type seals from Woolies https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/p-1285-door-seal Edited June 30, 2023 by Jonny TR6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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