4 Bonnet

[Malbaby]

Bonnet not on the car, so pics are sub optimal.

3mm strip welded onto the inside of the side edges..It does protrude lower than the factory edges, but gives the sides extra strength...[How many times have you seen the bonnet sides bent due to undue force applied to close it].

On one pic you can see that the welded edge strip has a small return at the back corner.

Also welded in a triangular strengthening piece to connect the sides to the main cross brace.

My bonnet did not need any "heat" treatment, hence no jig required, but was fitted to the car to ensure a nice fit pre/post welding.

Some guys may say it's OTT

[John h]

Great pictures malbaby Thanks for the encouragement I’m over the moon with results for a complete novice I’m shocked had another little go late this afternoon really pleased with the results will keep going some of the dents on the front of the bonnet just lifted out a couple of dents on the front brace our proving to be a bit stubborn, I can’t get at it because of the brace will persevere and push on thanks again for all your comments or post more pictures a little bit later 

Regards, John 

[Besalu]

Thank you Stuart, Malbaby, much appreciated.

Keep us updated John and looking forward to seeing the finished product!

Richard

[stuart]

I fit slightly bigger brace plates to the rear where the frame meets and it splits on the outside. They are available ready made from Revingtons at vast expense but I have a pattern for them if anyone need to borrow it.

Stuart.

 

[John h]

Been out in the garage again can’t leave it alone just posting cup of pictures still more to do but getting there I think there are two dents on the front brace which have been a bit awkward. Can’t get at the back of it as you can see. I’ve even tried that heat on that will have another go probably next week now I sprayed a little bit of water so you can see the reflections Let me know your thoughts. Regards, John

[stuart]

If you feel your getting close then clean off the burn marks and then stick a coat of Bondarust over the whole thing then use a long block (i.e. one that will take the width of a full sheet of production paper) and block the whole thing off, this will high light high or low spots.

Stuart.

[John h]

Thanks Stuart, when I start to get close ill do what you said with the bondarust have not used that before I do have some is it a primer filler or both

[stuart]

2 hours ago, John h said:

Thanks Stuart, when I start to get close ill do what you said with the bondarust have not used that before I do have some is it a primer filler or both

Its a zinc based primer, no filling properties but it stops rust, I use it as a bare metal coat for all my panel work. Its great for keeping bare panels rust free while your working on them especially through the filler process too, then once youve filled everything stick another coat of it on and then use your 2k primer filler. Makes for a long lasting finish and thats how you get dead flat panels which are essential for dark coloured cars.

Stuart.

 

[John h]

Thanks Stuart 

[Malbaby]

John...Try to get the surface as good as you can before applying any epoxy primer.

Are you "shrinking" the metal immediately after heating with a wet rag?

Edited May 29, 2023 by Malbaby

[John h]

I’ve been using a water spray bottle with a little bit of washing up liquid in it according to someone on YouTube helps with lubrication, apparently once cooled just wipe it with a rag

[Besalu]

Out of interest Stuart what welding set up do you use? Oxy-acetylene, TIG or MIG or all three?

when i was doing my SMW apprenticeship in the 80's it was predominantly oxy-acetylene i was using but i haven't touched one for more than 30 years i would say. I have a little TIG machine and plasma for cutting but contemplating getting oxy-ace for some up-coming projects.

On another thread you mentioned leading technique. This is something i have never done. Have watched a couple of videos and will probably give this a go as well if i get the oxy-ace set up.

[stuart]

5 hours ago, Besalu said:

Out of interest Stuart what welding set up do you use? Oxy-acetylene, TIG or MIG or all three?

when i was doing my SMW apprenticeship in the 80's it was predominantly oxy-acetylene i was using but i haven't touched one for more than 30 years i would say. I have a little TIG machine and plasma for cutting but contemplating getting oxy-ace for some up-coming projects.

On another thread you mentioned leading technique. This is something i have never done. Have watched a couple of videos and will probably give this a go as well if i get the oxy-ace set up.

I use a MIG and spot welder. I do have a TIG but Im not that good with it. Oxy tends to put too much heat into things with associated warping.

Leading is a great way to get panel gaps nice and even and to put the factory shape back into certain areas.

Stuart.

[John h]

Stuart, can I put the bondorust over the top of red oxide or does it have to be on bare metal many thanks, John

[stuart]

32 minutes ago, John h said:

Stuart, can I put the bondorust over the top of red oxide or does it have to be on bare metal many thanks, John

As I dont know what red oxide youve used I couldnt say either way. Was it put on over bare steel?

Stuart.

[John h]

 It was done before I got the Bonnet and yes, I think it’s on bare metal

Edited June 2, 2023 by John h

[Malbaby]

Question is not directed at me, but I offer these comments.

This is what I do ...Bare metal all of the top surface and edges, clean thoroughly with a wax and grease remover, then apply a liberal coat of poly primer to the bare metal.

The one I use is "RestoFinish" Poly Primer. Bit expensive, but a very good product.

Then the usual mist coat, blocking, filler, more of the same primer etc. etc.

No need to apply different paint products that may have a compromising chemical make up.

[stuart]

11 hours ago, Malbaby said:

Question is not directed at me, but I offer these comments.

This is what I do ...Bare metal all of the top surface and edges, clean thoroughly with a wax and grease remover, then apply a liberal coat of poly primer to the bare metal.

The one I use is "RestoFinish" Poly Primer. Bit expensive, but a very good product.

Then the usual mist coat, blocking, filler, more of the same primer etc. etc.

No need to apply different paint products that may have a compromising chemical make up.

There is no rust killing properties in that though. The beauty of Bondarust is even if the top coat and primer gets damaged by stone chips it wont go through the Bondarust.

Ive used that under a number of types of primer/paint combinations including synthetic, cellulose, acrylic, enamel and 2k without any reactions.

Stuart.

[Nigel C]

On 5/28/2023 at 8:31 AM, Besalu said:

Malbaby, do you have any pics of the jig/strengthening set up you mention by any chance?

Stuart, as an alternative to blasting (risk of warping) would you suggest another method of getting back to the bare metal? Such as paint remover/dipping or using an orbital sander?

Richard

soda blast I would say.

I cant believe that any "sand blaster" would still be doing this to panels....does "that industry" never learn 

[stuart]

12 hours ago, Nigel C said:

soda blast I would say.

I cant believe that any "sand blaster" would still be doing this to panels....does "that industry" never learn 

That depends, sadly no longer working due to cancer the guy l used for years was a master at sand blasting unsupported panels and used to do E Type bonnets for a top jaguar restorer.  Its a case of taking your time and not doing them straight on at full power, unfortunately its usually the "Boys job" and they dont have the experience.

Stuart.

[Ralph Whitaker]

On 5/30/2023 at 7:25 PM, John h said:

 It was done before I got the Boner and yes, I think it’s on bare metal

I hesitated before doing this post, but if I don`t pick up on it I know someone else will. John, will you please correct the spelling in case people get the wrong idea,

Ralph

[Nigel C]

 

 It was done before I got the Boner and yes, I think it’s on bare metal

I wondered why there was so much traffic on this thread 

[Chilliman]

On 5/29/2023 at 12:01 PM, stuart said:

I fit slightly bigger brace plates to the rear where the frame meets and it splits on the outside. They are available ready made from Revingtons at vast expense but I have a pattern for them if anyone need to borrow it.

Stuart, looking at your pictures am I correct in thinking that when you fit the reinforcing plates you not only spot weld along the edge & plug weld to the cross brace but you also put three spots to the actual  skin itself? I'm just doing a short bulge bonnet at present which was so bad I've had to completely deconstruct it to repair the respective component sections so I'm in a position to do whatever is best to make it strong.

[stuart]

1 hour ago, Chilliman said:

Stuart, looking at your pictures am I correct in thinking that when you fit the reinforcing plates you not only spot weld along the edge & plug weld to the cross brace but you also put three spots to the actual  skin itself? I'm just doing a short bulge bonnet at present which was so bad I've had to completely deconstruct it to repair the respective component sections so I'm in a position to do whatever is best to make it strong.

If doing a bonnet from bare then yes I spot through the skin too, you do need to be a bit careful how you do it or it will dimple the skin. The other way is bond across there with the stuff they use to bond panels on a modern.

Stuart.

[Chilliman]

7 minutes ago, stuart said:

If doing a bonnet from bare then yes I spot through the skin too, you do need to be a bit careful how you do it or it will dimple the skin. The other way is bond across there with the stuff they use to bond panels on a modern.

Excellent, thanks Stuart, given the other issues I've had to address with this particular bonnet a few dimples will be small fry to sort out. I have to confess I've never used any of these new bonding products although they are obviously in common use nowadays.