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Head gasket for flat top blocks


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I bought a what I think is a good quality gasket from Bastuck last year, with a red band around all the edges, which looks like an extra sealing compound, ordered the same gasket from Bastuck thinking I would get the same but it now comes as Payen AG900 gasket without the red extra sealing band.

I need to change the gasket as I need to take the head off again, it has been leak free, fantastic,  so wanted to get the same again, but foiled again. I need to get the cam followers out when I put in my new camshaft, want to check the followers I have in there for the new camshaft, even though they haven't been in there that long.

Does anybody recognise this gasket and where I could get one from please, it seems everybody now only supplies the Payen gasket, unfortunately there is no marks/references on the Bastuck packaging, and I haven't taken the head off yet to see if these are any marks on the gasket itself?

John

IMG_3438 (2).JPG

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I can't identify the source of that particular gasket. However, since it came from Bastuck, it could well be of German manufacture.

Victor Reinz is one of the leading gasket producers in Germany, so could be worth trying:

https://www.victorreinz.com/en/products/cylinder-head-gaskets.aspx?region

Nigel

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Looks like tr enterprises do the head gasket you describe 

in standard and big bore size

https://triumphspecialtuning.com/product/uprated-composite-cylinder-head-gasket-triumph-tr5-6/

worth a chat with them. 

E14B9928-F0C7-4CE3-98EE-54A50CD6FE5E.jpeg

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15 hours ago, John L said:

Ich habe letztes Jahr eine meiner Meinung nach qualitativ gute Dichtung von Bastuck gekauft, mit einem roten Band um alle Kanten, das wie eine zusätzliche Dichtungsmasse aussieht, habe die gleiche Dichtung von Bastuck bestellt und dachte, ich würde die gleiche bekommen, aber jetzt kommt sie so Payen AG900 Dichtung ohne rotes zusätzliches Dichtungsband.

Ich muss die Dichtung wechseln, da ich den Kopf wieder abnehmen muss, es war leckagefrei, fantastisch, also wollte ich das gleiche wieder bekommen, aber wieder vereitelt. Ich muss die Nockenstößel rausholen, wenn ich meine neue Nockenwelle einbaue, möchte die Nockenstößel, die ich da drin habe, auf die neue Nockenwelle überprüfen, obwohl sie noch nicht so lange drin sind.

Kennt jemand diese Dichtung und woher ich eine bekommen könnte, bitte, es scheint, dass jetzt jeder nur noch die Payen-Dichtung liefert, leider gibt es keine Markierungen/Referenzen auf der Bastuck-Verpackung, und ich habe den Kopf noch nicht abgenommen, um zu sehen, ob diese vorhanden sind sind Spuren auf der Dichtung selbst?

John

IMG_3438 (2).JPG

Hello,
The Limora company had the seal made exclusively for them in Germany. The manufacturer is Elring. You definitely won't get the seal from Elring! We've tried that before :)
What Bastuck has in there.....? Any reproduction part from Turkey, India or China.
The original Payen seals are of very good quality.

Many greetings
Ralf

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16 hours ago, Nigel Triumph said:

I can't identify the source of that particular gasket. However, since it came from Bastuck, it could well be of German manufacture.

Victor Reinz is one of the leading gasket producers in Germany, so could be worth trying:

https://www.victorreinz.com/en/products/cylinder-head-gaskets.aspx?region

Nigel

It is in deed an Elring Gasket. I am not certain that the very high cost of that gasket is worth the extra cash as I have used the Coopers gasket ( J Payen in the after market) for over 50 years and had no trouble? The red outline is a silicone treatment to help seal the gasket against oil leaks. The key point is to make sure your cylinder head has a flat face

Bruce.

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Bruce,  Thanks for your info, The Bastuck gasket was 47.62 euros in August last year, Tr Enterprise now want £75, as you say is it really necessary, I must say I didnt have any leaks on the pushrod side of the engine, what is the torque to use and then retighten when hot?  The manual says 80lbs ft.

John

 

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53 minutes ago, John L said:

Bruce,  Thanks for your info, The Bastuck gasket was 47.62 euros in August last year, Tr Enterprise now want £75, as you say is it really necessary, I must say I didnt have any leaks on the pushrod side of the engine, what is the torque to use and then retighten when hot?  The manual says 80lbs ft.

John

 

Hi John,

The torque is very important on the early TR6's as the block distorts with uneven loading on the cylinder head studs. The post summer 1972 blocks and heads were modified with a web introduced along the bottom of the block and the water jacket modified on the cylinder head to try to eliminate valve seat distortion which was a warranty problem ( loss of compression). Hence the different head gasket with fire rings as per F1 cars and counter bores around the cylinder bores was introduced. Bastruck should be able to tell you the Torque figures?

Bruce.

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Am 25.1.2023 um 13:38 Uhr sagte John L:

Bruce, danke für deine Info, die Bastuck-Dichtung kostete im August letzten Jahres 47,62 Euro, Tr Enterprise will jetzt 75 Pfund, wie du sagst, ist es wirklich notwendig, ich muss sagen, ich hatte keine Lecks auf der Stößelstangenseite des Motors , was ist das Drehmoment und dann im heißen Zustand nachzuziehen? Im Handbuch steht 80lbs ft.

John

 

Hallo John,
seit vielen Jahren setze ich Zylinderköpfe wie auf dem Bild gezeigt auf. Ober-/Unterteil aus Silikon (Elring Dirko HT) und ganz leichte vordere und letzte Nieten. Den Zylinderkopf ziehe ich in mehreren Stufen bis 100 N/m an. Maschine starten, einlaufen lassen, bis sie Betriebstemperatur erreicht hat. Dann die Maschine ausschalten und ca. 20 Minuten stehen lassen und dann ziehe ich den Zylinderkopf mit 110 N/m fest.
Fertig bearbeitet:)

Viele Grüße
Ralf

Silizium am Zylinderkopf.JPG

Edited by Schnippel
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Just one more question, should the cylinder bolts be tightened into the block, or is it just necessary to put them in finger tight?  I wasnt going to torque them just nip them up with my stud extractor.

John 

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