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SLOW RISING OIL PRESSURE


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Both my TR2s oil pressure rises rapidly after start. Hot running pressure in both is 70psi or a bit above and 30 at hot idle. They have original bypass oil filters.

The TR3 I've just acquired takes quite a few seconds after start for the oil pressure to rise and it then rises slowly. It also has a hot running pressure at 70psi and 30 at hot idle. This car has a spin on filter conversion.

My TR6 also has a spin on filter and its oil pressure rises very quickly after start, faster than the TR2s.

Any ideas why the TR3 oil pressure takes its time getting up?

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Hi John, My TR3 has a spin on filter and the pressure rises straight away,  I know that some canisters have anti drain valves fitted to stop the oil being vacuumed back into the sump, perhaps try a filter that you know has one fitted. Cheers, Bill.

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John 

I had a similar issue with my TR3 for some time after I bought it. The pressure would rise very slowly after start up and it would take quite a few minutes of running before it recorded a decent pressure i.e. 50 psi + at low rev and 70psi at 2000rpm. I wasn't particularly worried about it as it was ok when fully warmed up @ 70psi.

However , I did notice a slight weep/oil spray around the lock nut for the adjusting screw on the filter head. I tightened this up without altering the position of the adjusting screw and this appears to have solved the issue! I get 50+psi on cold start up straight away, and as before 70psi when fully warm. Might be worth you checking yours for tightness.

I have a full flow Purolator with the standard filter element.

Rob

 

 

 

 

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The oil pressure feed on the 6 is a bit more direct on the  6 cylinder cars in that it comes straight of the oil gallery.

On the 4 cylinder car it is via banjo fitting on one of the filter housing adaptor.

In theory the pressure should almost instantly be passed up the pipework to the guage but in practice restrictions and air bubbles affect the imediacy of the pressure changes indicated at the guage.

The oil light goes off immediately on starting the six before the needle budges on the pressure guage.

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There are two copper washers, 1 either side of the Banjo connection mentioned above, the one with the larger hole should be innermost to allow oil to pass through to the gauge. If they were the swapped over there would be a large restriction.

 

Bob.

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Has any sealant been used on the filter head to block join? Over zealous use could have blocked the cutaway that allows the oil to access the banjo.

Ralph

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22 hours ago, RobTR3 said:

John 

I had a similar issue with my TR3 for some time after I bought it. The pressure would rise very slowly after start up and it would take quite a few minutes of running before it recorded a decent pressure i.e. 50 psi + at low rev and 70psi at 2000rpm. I wasn't particularly worried about it as it was ok when fully warmed up @ 70psi.

However , I did notice a slight weep/oil spray around the lock nut for the adjusting screw on the filter head. I tightened this up without altering the position of the adjusting screw and this appears to have solved the issue! I get 50+psi on cold start up straight away, and as before 70psi when fully warm. Might be worth you checking yours for tightness.

I have a full flow Purolator with the standard filter element.

Rob

 

 

 

 

No obvious leaks but I will check tomorrow in case I missed it.

 

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On 8/23/2022 at 12:58 PM, Lebro said:

Most likely explanation is a restriction in the oil pressure gauge pipe somewhere.

Bob

The tractor web site forums have this issue   https://stinsonowners.org/knowledge-base/oil-pressure-gauge-sluggish/
 


They have found two possible causes.  

As Bob states above a restriction possibly crushed or partially blocked pipe and hose between engine and gauge.  Simple visual inspection.  Do you have an heater?   Perhaps some over zealous previous owner over bent the pipe behind the heater.


The other is that the oil in the line has gone like treacle and causing a restriction.      Simple solution for that is disconnect the pipe at the gauge (save that leather sealing washer between the pipe and the gauge for refitment ).  Wrap the end of the pipe in a rag, place a plastic bag over that and crank the engine with the ignition leads disconnected so the engine will not start.    That should bleed any gunge out the tube leaving only new fresh oil in it.  Reconnect and test.

or just disconnect both ends and blow through with compressed air.

If the problem persists swap the gauge to another TR that you know to be ok, see if the problem is still there, in which case it is a gauge problem.  
Bold solution……Take the back off and squirt Kroil in to its mechanism. 

 

Peter W

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Thank you all for the advice. As it doesn't appear to be an engine problem, there are no nasty noises while the gauge rises, I think I'll leave it be to avoid creating bigger problems. 

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