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Well, my 4A passed its MOT today, but the wipers haven't worked since the tester tried them. The motor is drawing current but there's no movement. I can just about move the rack by hand (the cover is off the gearbox) but it feels really notchy, so I suspect one or both of the wheelboxes is seizing up. I've ordered a couple of new ones, and I have a spare rack somewhere, but does anyone have any helpful hints to offer?

Pete

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Not as bad a job as I first thought 

sitting in the drivers seat access the right hand panel by removing either the speedo or tachometer can’t just remember which and sitting in the passenger seat access the left hand Panrl by removing the glove box liner.

My rack seized when the wheel box twisted caused by my over tightening the chrome screw on the spindle, and splitting the inside ferrule, cured by making the two inside ferrules from 

20 mm box - no issues in 20 years 

John

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Thanks John. Mine had seized some time ago, but freed up when I worked a little oil down the spindles, but this time I think it's time to bite the bullet and get some new stuff.

Hope I can get it done before Ambergate.

Pete

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Hi Pete,

I had a similar problem a couple of years back. Turned out to be that the rack stopped moving due to congealed grease. Was taken out, cleaned & re-greased.

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Well, I think I've found the problem:

IMG_20220810_162855984_BURST000_COVER.jpg

New wheelboxes arrived today. I'd forgotten what a pig of a job it is to fit them. Then again the last time I fitted them I didn't have a dashboard or windscreen getting in the way!

Pete

Edited by stillp
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I've given up for today. :( Finally got it all back together; new rack and wheelboxes, plenty of new grease, new ferrule on the end of the motor, rack tubes cleaned out with a gun brush. Had a real struggle with the bolts holding the wiper motor bracket to the bulkhead but eventually they all went in. Just thought I'd try it out before reconnecting the washers, and it doesn't work! Motor runs briefly, enough to turn both spindles about a quarter turn, then stops.

I suppose I need to slacken everything off a bit to try to find what's binding. :(

Pete

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The rack did seem to be quite tight going through the bend in the centre tube. It had freed up a bit by the time I'd connected up the tubes. Can the tubes "float" in the wheelboxes, or are they clamped rigidly?

Pete

Edited by stillp
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They should be clamped but its best to leave them slightly slack first of all and then fit the rack through and manually run it up and down a bit and then tighten. Dont forget that the right hand wheel box has to be slightly off centre to allow for the angle of the kink of the centre tube.

Stuart.

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The backplates that screw on, leave them slightly loose so the tubes settle in position and run the rack up and down so its running at its best and get the wheel boxes in line with the tubes and then tighten up the wheel boxes and then finally tighten the back plates, be careful when tightening the wheel box nuts as the plastic plinths arent the best and its easy to disturb the little washer pipes.

Stuart.

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Progress!

Loosened everything as directed by Stuart, took the rack off the motor, heaved the rack back and forth several (OK, many) times. Reconnected the rack to the motor and tried again. Struggled initially but soon started running better, with the wheel boxes moving about rather a lot. Let it run for a bit, then re tightened the LH side wheelbox nut and then the backplates, checking that the motor still ran. The RH wheelbox still wants to move about but the movement seems to be reducing so I think I'll live with it for a while and keep tightening the wheelbox nut.

I also now have a brand new set of Tex wiper arms and blades, £59.95 from ebay, so nearly good to go.

Now if only I could get the washer pipes on...

Pete

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Do these not go on from above before clamping to the wheel box?

Dip the end of the washer tubing in boiling water then push on.   Works great that way on my irrigation system that uses 4 mm washer tubes….

I’ll get my coat.

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5 minutes ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

Do these not go on from above before clamping to the wheel box?

That might have been easier, but after the trouble I had getting the rack to move freely I don't want to disturb that wheelbox again!

The boiling water isn't necessary, they're already stretched from being fitted for a few decades, it's just that the access is so poor I can't see what I'm doing. I dare say your irrigation system doesn't require the skills of a gynaecologist to connect the pipes up!

I'll have another go tomorrow.

Pete

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On 8/11/2022 at 8:23 PM, RogerH said:

Hi Pete,

disconnect the motor from the rack and using  a spring balance see what force is required to pull the rack.

There is an official value that I'm sure otherwill tell.

 

Roger

According to the WM 'the force required should not exceed 6lbs'

Tim

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Hello Pete

I had a problem with wiper motor grinding to a halt recently. The problem was that the fuse was slightly loose in the fuse box. Check the supply and earth connections because if you lose power because of dodgy connections the motor can stop working.

Keith

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First thing I checked Keith, I was hoping it was just something electrical but no, nothing so easy.

Seems OK now though, finally got the washers connected up - they didn't work at first, the non-return valves in the washer bottle weren't working, but 20 minutes in the ultrasonic sorted them out. Just have to fit the new arms and blades now.

Pete

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New arms and blades on, wipers and washers working fine. Went out for a run to celebrate and the instrument voltage stabiliser failed so no fuel or temp gauges! Replaced it, and the replacement failed almost immediately. I must find a better source of 7810 regulator ICs.

Pete

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