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Trunnion seal failure


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So, while I was under the car the other day I did the usual topping up of all the greasing points, but when I pumped grease into the N/S trunnion the bottom disk popped away from the body, & grease squirted out of the gap instead of moving up the thread to the top.

Well yesterday I set about removing the trunnion in order to rectify the problem. I first cleaned out all the lubricant, then punched the disk all the way out of the body in order to clean up the surfaces, & remove any soft solder on them (I had previously soldered around the edge to seal the disk to the body, as they usually leak.)

I then silver soldered the disk back into the recess, this was only partially sucessful as it was hard to get enough heat into the thing to fully melt the silver solder ( & I was concerned about over heating it) Testing showed that grease was still escaping, so back to cleaning, then soft soldering all the gaps !  2nd time round all was well, & part is back on the car!  Not the nicest of jobs to do in this heat !

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Bob

Edited by Lebro
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Interesting thread.  I have (the same?) trunnions on my 4A and the bottom is open to atmosphere.  Having owned  the TR for only 3 years I did wonder if anything should be in there. Is the 4A the same ? Should I have a disc in that opening?
For maintenance I just put my thumb over it whilst pumping in grease from the top. 
I realise it’s slightly off TR2/3 subject but I’m hoping someone will have the answer. 
thanks

David

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.

Edited by Motorsport Mickey
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13 minutes ago, Pontious said:

Interesting thread.  I have (the same?) trunnions on my 4A and the bottom is open to atmosphere.  Having owned  the TR for only 3 years I did wonder if anything should be in there. Is the 4A the same ? Should I have a disc in that opening?
For maintenance I just put my thumb over it whilst pumping in grease from the top. 
I realise it’s slightly off TR2/3 subject but I’m hoping someone will have the answer. 
thanks

David

4a trunnions should have a blank disc in the base  as the grease comes from the grease nipple in the upright, if you dont have a disc in the base then I suggest you renew them as soon as possible. Moss do good ones.

Stuart

Edited by stuart
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3 hours ago, BlueTR3A-5EKT said:

I soft soldered mine from new like you.  I use steering box lube/140 EP to lubricate instead of grease.

I was considering changing to steering box lubricant for the trunnions, have you been doing it for very long? It seemed like a good alternative.

George 

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10 minutes ago, harlequin said:

I was considering changing to steering box lubricant for the trunnions, have you been doing it for very long? It seemed like a good alternative.

George 

This works well https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/3021485701?iid=180943604900

Stuart.

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5 hours ago, stuart said:

4a trunnions should have a blank disc in the base  as the grease comes from the grease nipple in the upright, if you dont have a disc in the base then I suggest you renew them as soon as possible. Moss do good ones.

Stuart

Thanks Stuart

 I'll get onto that when it’s a bit cooler

David

 

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+1 for oil instead of grease. Also use 140 grade oil in my cars, the A35van, Vitesse, and TR all use the same idea of a threaded lower swivel. I use a hand pump oil gun, the type without a lever, you just press the body down to operate it, this works at a much lower pressure than the lever type guns can achieve so there is less chance of forcing out the bottom disc. I think the oil flows more readily around the threads to keep them lubricated where grease can get squeezed out. Obviously needs a good sealing disc at the bottom of the trunnion, but both mine were new on the TR and have been OK straight out of the box.

Ralph

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          The usual recommendation is oil in bottom trunnions and grease in top trunnions not that TRs have top trunnions but other cars do.

          Cheers

          Richard

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