Steering rack

[scv]

I have a 1964 TR4.

 

I went to grease the steering rack but found instead of a removable screw or grease nipple that there is just a blank plug with 2 small holes in the top.

 

One of the holes had a screw securing the earth lead to the chassis. The other hole is empty. I've tried tapping the plug around but it won't unscrew.

 

Does this seem right? In my manual and on the various parts web sites they all show either a screw or nipple.

 

I don’t know if the steering rack has been replaced at any stage. Any thoughts?

Ta

Steve

[MikeF]

I don’t know if the steering rack has been replaced at any stage. Any thoughts?

Ta

Steve

 

 

I was hoping someone who actually knows something would answer.

So in their absence:

Hard to see what it could be if it isn't a Triumph part. Could be an after market I suppose.

The Spitfire has many bits in common with the TR including much of the steering.

Can't swear to it - unfortunately I didn't have a premonition you were going to ask this - but on my Spitfire 1500 10 years ago, it had a place for a nipple and this was illustrated in manuals for early machine but not later, However mine had a blanking screw which I replaced by a nipple. [it just screwed in.] Maybe you need to go on the TR6 forum and ask them if they have a grease nipple in steering or ....?

 

 

Mike

[PaulAnderson]

Hi,

After confirming with another group member that the slop in my own TR4A steering was due to a failing steering rack (I already have the solid mounts) I was advised from more than one supplier that you can only buy new replacement racks so did so from my local Triumph supplier. This came under part number 306829 which correlates with that shown in the Moss manual. I too noted that this does not have a grease nipple on it and as I simply could not get the old screw on cap / lid with the nipple replaceable plug off my old rack I bore the small cost of a new cap to fit to the new rack, this being part number 132053. It appears identical to the one on my old rack.

 

Then the real problem started. I thought the new rack's movement was rather stiff (it did not move at all with light pressure whereas my old one did) so wondered if it had grease any in it to begin with. So, I thought I'd put the new cap on, check inside and and pump some grease in. I started to remove the existing large screw on cap from the new rack and noted that it was in fact two parts against the original unit’s one part. There is an outer nut and an inner plug which at first I thought had a female hexagon fitting for an Allen screw. Unfortunately I did not have an Allen screw big enough but upon closer inspection found it is only vaguely hexagon anyway - it's crudely made and there's no way that it's been machined for any tool to fit inside it for unscrewing. After some fudging I got both bits off and then noticed that the newly purchased cap is a slightly different size and very much a different thread to that on the rack. So, I had to put the original cap back on which was difficult but achieved. But still, there's no grease apparent inside (I could only see a clean new spring inside) and no clear way to grease it.

 

To summarise, the new rack has a different cap design to the old one, parts are not interchangeable and I can't see how to grease it. Any idea what I can do next? Unfortunately I'd already painted the new rack in anticipation of fitting it so taking it back might be a problem. See attached photograph of both racks together.

Thanks, Paul

[stuart]

I had a conversation with Jeff Marks at Moss about this the other day as they have had a few complaints about not being able to put an earth strap on the new racks as they normally fit under the grease nipple and the answer was to fit them to a hose clip attached to the rack! The two part screw is an adjuster to keep pressure on the adjuster pad under the spring so if it is a bit tight in operation try slackening the centre portion slightly although it should have been pre set correctly when assembled. These replacement racks are built down to a price anyway so never going to be that good on quality from half a world away!! As others have said its quite easy to rebuild your original rack anyway.

Stuart.

[PaulAnderson]

I approached a couple of TR specialists who told me that reconditioned / exchange racks were no longer available and all I could do was to buy a new one, which I did.

 

My problem is that there's no grease in the new rack as supplied and no visible means of getting some in, never mind a lack of instructions as to how much to use etc. As such, there seeems something fundmentally wrong with the new rack as it stands and I can't see myself fitting it until I resolve these issues.

 

Paul

[Rhodri]

Paul- One way of putting grease in would be to slip off the rubber bellows and put grease in there, working the rack from one lock to another as you do so.

[PaulAnderson]

I contacted Moss directly myself today and was advised that in removing the screw in cap on the top of the new rack to fit the grease cap as fitted to previous racks I may have broken the rack. There is a spring directly under the cap that may have a preset compression set at the factory.

 

After some sensitive discussions on the cause of such actions I'd like to highlight for any existing or future buyer of the new replacement that the new racks are sealed and are not supposed to be greased at all. They are based upon modern bearing and not bushes - and made in Argentina if you're interested. Do not remove the screw on cap / lid

 

I am now returning mine for inspection and hope to come to an amicable arrangement with Moss in resolving this situation with my new and as yet unfitted rack.

 

Paul

[Rhodri]

Beware ! If your rack is for a post CT20266 car it should be number 305930. Most suppliers have run out of these racks and have substituted Spitfire racks that are 2" shorter. My original rack has 305930 cast into the alloy pinion housing.

[BrianC]

Assuming that the rack did not come with appropriate warnings, I would be inclined to demand, and expect, a full refund on the grounds that the rack is unfit for purpose.

What use is a rack that cannot be greased? The first thing that I would have done is remove the cap to drill and tap to fit a grease nipple, thereby ending in the same position as you have. I suspect that most TR owners would have done the same. If the rack was sold under the original part number, then it should match in 'form, fit and function'. It clearly doesn't. Get your money back and go elsewhere (armed with your new-found knowledge to ask some pertinent questions before parting with cash) and get either a new rack or have your original rack reconditioned (NOT exchanged).

Good luck and let us know how you get on - many others will have the same problem sooner or later.

Edited May 31, 2007 by BrianC

[Kiwifrog]

What is involved in reconditioning a Steering Rack ? are there bearings that need to be replaced ? Is there a kit available for reconditioning a rack? I have a bit of play in my TR4 rack and while the car is off the road it would bseem prudent to do something about it.

 

Cheers

 

Alan

[scv]

Paul- One way of putting grease in would be to slip off the rubber bellows and put grease in there, working the rack from one lock to another as you do so.

 

I rang Martin at Revington and asked his advice and was told that this was probably the easiest way to do it. He wasn't aware that there weren't grease nipples on the racks.

 

As mine was on the car when I bought it I don't know where it came from but it is at least 4 years old now.

 

Steve

[ianc]

I have the early TR4 rack, which is mounted solidly on two arms projecting upwards from the chassis. I had the rack rebuilt early in 2005 through Revington TR. The worn rack and pinion (and they were worn - I saw them!) were replaced and all other worn items replaced. It came back with a grease nipple fitted, and I have used it. The work wasn't cheap, but one's life depends upon that item, and I had suffered a failure of the left steering arm on the way to Malvern in July 2004, so wanted to make sure that all would be well for the rest of my lifetime!

[PaulAnderson]

Assuming that the rack did not come with appropriate warnings, I would be inclined to demand, and expect, a full refund on the grounds that the rack is unfit for purpose.

What use is a rack that cannot be greased? The first thing that I would have done is remove the cap to drill and tap to fit a grease nipple, thereby ending in the same position as you have. I suspect that most TR owners would have done the same. If the rack was sold under the original part number, then it should match in 'form, fit and function'. It clearly doesn't. Get your money back and go elsewhere (armed with your new-found knowledge to ask some pertinent questions before parting with cash) and get either a new rack or have your original rack reconditioned (NOT exchanged).

Good luck and let us know how you get on - many others will have the same problem sooner or later.

 

 

Moss Europe (London) have now inspected the rack and have not advised of any damage. They are going ot return it to me for installatiion and use.

The person spoken to in the earlier conversation did confirm that having instructions would help (there was definitely none with it) and I hope that for everyones benefit they follow through and actually provide some in the future.

Regards, Paul

[had17462]

Hi all,had my new argie rack converted to take the old earth bolt in london £30 + p-p. looks great,let me know if you want number ,nick.