Adrian Fuller Posted September 21, 2021 Report Share Posted September 21, 2021 Has anybody used one of the bastuck seals. How on earth do you close the gap (see picture below) especially when trying to put the crank into the bearing and seal, there is just no room... Also the instructions say use silicon sealer on the outside of the seal which is supposed to stop movement but will probably prevent movement when trying to assemble with the bearing cap and top seal which looks like it snaggs on the sharp edges which again may stop the bearing cap seating properly. Thanks again for any suggestions Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 21, 2021 Report Share Posted September 21, 2021 Hi Adrian, the sealing lip is holding the seal open as shown in the pic. when the seal is installed in its clam shell everything should close down nicely. Put the sealant between the two faces of the cut seal. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted September 21, 2021 Report Share Posted September 21, 2021 +1 Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adrian Fuller Posted September 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2021 Hi Roger So I am guessing no need to pur sealer in the housing? and can I put a silicone grease on the housing to help instalation.. or is that not a good idea? Thanks for the advice Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted September 21, 2021 Report Share Posted September 21, 2021 Just a dot of silicon in the gap of the viton seal, then as you squeeze it between the metal parts of the seal the gap reduces to zero. see this for the best instructions@ Mad Marx splitseal.pdf Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adrian Fuller Posted September 21, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2021 Thanks all for the help.. All good now Adrian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted September 21, 2021 Report Share Posted September 21, 2021 Don’t forget to make sure that the flywheel bolts don’t protrude from the back of the flange enough to rub on the seal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted September 21, 2021 Report Share Posted September 21, 2021 (edited) Good point, I did have grind a bit off 2 of mine Bob Edited September 21, 2021 by Lebro Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted September 22, 2021 Report Share Posted September 22, 2021 Good morning! Only to understand, I'm far away to do this: This lipseal has not the common steel body inside? Otherwise it would not be possible to get it in position. And the spring is elastic enough to go over the flange? Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted September 22, 2021 Report Share Posted September 22, 2021 The seal has no steel reinforcement. The spring is unscrewed at its join for fitting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted September 22, 2021 Report Share Posted September 22, 2021 (edited) Aaaah! Screwed! This reminds me to the transmission of my steam engine from my childhood! And the seal without steel reinforcement. I ask myself how this will work because I know them only with steel body. Thank ou for this info, Andrew. Edited September 22, 2021 by Z320 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Drewmotty Posted September 22, 2021 Report Share Posted September 22, 2021 1 hour ago, Z320 said: This reminds me to the transmission of my steam engine from my childhood! I'd forgotten the spring drive transmissions until you mentioned it but you're correct, its the same system. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nigel C Posted September 22, 2021 Report Share Posted September 22, 2021 12 hours ago, Drewmotty said: Don’t forget to make sure that the flywheel bolts don’t protrude from the back of the flange enough to rub on the seal. IF this were to happen would it actually come into contact/damage the seal or rub on the housing around it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted September 22, 2021 Report Share Posted September 22, 2021 35 minutes ago, Nigel C said: IF this were to happen would it actually come into contact/damage the seal or rub on the housing around it? They touch the housing if too long. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted September 22, 2021 Report Share Posted September 22, 2021 10 hours ago, Drewmotty said: I'd forgotten the spring drive transmissions until you mentioned it but you're correct, its the same system. My little steam engine is still present at my office for decoration, but this tiny tools are off. BTW I had my flywheel off in May for my gearbox project and was TOTALLY surprised to find the engine behind it absolutely and 100% dry!! I suppose the oil comes (came) from the pushrod tubes..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adrian Fuller Posted September 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2021 On to the next phase.. Piston assembly, I have only ever played with 2nd hand piston and rings and the oil scraper ring is proving interesting Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trchris Posted September 24, 2021 Report Share Posted September 24, 2021 Don't forget to gap the rings Chris Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adrian Fuller Posted September 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2021 Hi yep all rings nedded a little fettle but all sorted now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted September 24, 2021 Report Share Posted September 24, 2021 How much play do this 2nd hand pistons habe in the liners, are the liners also 2nd hand? I ask because I futher used my liners and pistons 10 years ago without knowing much about and perhaps also do that on the old engine I bought some time ago. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adrian Fuller Posted September 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2021 Hi Ciao sorry for any confusion I am fitting all new pistons rings and liners. Moving on liners now in block all getting very exciting. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adrian Fuller Posted September 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2021 Getting ready to fit the pistons and note a red dot (see photo) any idea what this is for? Thanks in advance Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted September 24, 2021 Report Share Posted September 24, 2021 Hi Adrian, have you set the liners 0.003 - 0.005" above the block height ? Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Adrian Fuller Posted September 24, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2021 Hi Roger, yes they have been set correctly, that cost me a fortune as the block needed skimming hence liners and pistons needed machining, all done very nicely by Hamlins Bridgwater. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted September 24, 2021 Report Share Posted September 24, 2021 Those oil control rings are a bugger to get right, they so easily want to slip one end over the other. Do make sure that does not happen ! Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Z320 Posted September 24, 2021 Report Share Posted September 24, 2021 Hi all, next Adrian will fit the cylinder head and my father (worked on MB cars and trucks) gave me this advice when I did that my first time: "Son, listen, don't slide the head over the cylinder head bolts, because they work like files. And if there is any coal, rust and crud in the drillings the threds will rasp it out and the crud will fall on you seal. This can cause you seroius trouble, if you don't notice it! better lay the head on the seal and bolt the studs through the head!" What did I do? I ignored my fathers adcive and did the job too times. To remind me the worn seal was a long time in my workshop on a nail on the wall. I know lots of you slide the head over the studs, and some have problems to get the engine sealed. Ciao, Marco Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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