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Adrian Fuller

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About Adrian Fuller

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  1. All pistons now in and back to where I was 2 weeks ago. One more question.. Before I had to re._gap rings etc I noticed on the no1 bore an oil mark where piston moved up and down, I have now gapped rings etc and the oil mark or trail is still visible (see photo), although in a different location that appears to be in line with where the ring is gapped. The oil wiper ring on no1 piston was very marginally not as free as the others but I removed it and re_fitted it (hate that job) but did not make any difference and as it is only marginal I have gone with it. Any thought on this or
  2. All now assembled with good or no high spots.. Secret was 2 man job and lots of fettling as tightening up. Time for a pint.
  3. OK so rear end bearing caps are now slackened off and about 1 turn out. Just do not see how tapping these will cause the cap to move as the bolts are into the block so nothing would move.... Would it? How does this work? Thanks again in advance
  4. So pistons all back out to Sr ring gaps at 0.015" silly me set the at 0.008. Now looking at removing rear bearing cap, unfortunately I have already fitted the felt soaked in wellseal. The question is should I attempt to remove this with engine on the engine stand or is it safer to get the engine onto the deck, also any tips on how to remove the bearing cap as it is very tight.. Thanks in advance
  5. Thanks Mick I guessed this was going to be the outcome, I should have posted when I first noticed the issue when fitting, busy weekend for me then
  6. Hi Mick The main bearing/engine block end cap at the rear of the engine was not dressed up and probably should have been. Do you believe the raised clam end / main bearing position or seating is not acceptable? And dressing may allow bearing cap to fit more correctly, remembering that the crank turns as it should?. Also is it acceptable to release this main bearing only (and not the other bearing caps) to allow me to dress up the bearing cap/block end cap Thanks in advance
  7. Hi Roger the two halves are the same thickness, the clam shells are hard against their respective surfaces with no gaps. The lip / raised section is due to the way the main bearing cap has located itself in the casting / on the bearing, ie if you took the clam shel off you would see that the bearing cap is not aligned with its opposite engine casting. Hope that makes sense
  8. Hi Roger There is no gap it is the seal plate joint at the 9 o'clock position that is raised on the bottom. The seal is bolted flat and tight onto the lower bearing cap. This raised section is only on one side and shown in the photo below.
  9. Hi all, been away for a couple of weeks so just got back into the garage to start removing pistons so I can sort the piston ring gaps at 0. 0015". While I am taking backward steps I did have some concern regarding the fitment of the rear crank seal. When fitting this seal I did notice that one edge of the seal is not level with the other by about 0.0012" on one side, this was with the fitting tool and with the crank and bearings fitted (see photo) as the crank turned perfectly I assumed this was just an original casting / machining discrepancy but it has been bothering me for some time. The be
  10. Same for one in the right, is the one on the left possibly a blank front suspension turret but looks a tad small for that
  11. Hi you might find the detail on piston ring gaps in my post on Bastuck rear oil seal useful.
  12. Hi what an interesting link, I have also contacted Hamlins who did the machining work who advised 0.003" to 0.004" per inch diameter of bore which lines up with the suggested 0.015“. So I have got another job to do... Pistons back out sort out gaps again ffs. At least I will get to use my new piston ring pliers. Thanks for all the help
  13. Looked through my motor strip down photos looks like concave points towards the timing chain cover
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