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Adrian Fuller

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About Adrian Fuller

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  1. Hi all I am moving onto the engine rebuild so this is probably the start of many posts/questions, thanks in advance for any suggestions. The engine was seized including the cam but the crankshaft looks ok and will be checked along with the block and cylinder head checks for cracks. I am currently planning on fitting 87mm piston and liners, Max Speed con rods, a Newman P1 cam and followers, rear oils seal conversion (is there a proffered make/supplier/type? , I have already purchased a Phoenix big bore exhaust and manifold. I am now looking at the cylinder head which is an early hig
  2. Evening Bob I was looking at these and guess I will go that way. I assume the maxspeed con rods have the same white metal big end shell bearings. Was there any reason you stopped at 87mm? As I am planning on the 89mm liners. Also I believe you put many posts on here during the rebuild, any Idea how I find them allas I have had a good couple of hours trying to find them but failed miserably. Regards Adrian
  3. I have been looking at these after market Co rods and the are cheaper than getting new bolts for the original and fitting new little end bearings. I am sure I read somewhere that to use these there is some machining required on the liners due to the angle of the end caps, I'd this correct and had anybody got any info or videos on how to do this. I am currently planning to use 89mm liners if that makes a difference. Thanks again all
  4. I have not cleaned the liners, to be fair the pistons and bore are rusted due to water ingress through the carbs.. So everything else is in good order. Valve guides and cam followers are the next challenge.
  5. Big hammer and some 2x2 with a few choice words. What a good evenings work
  6. Evening all I have just started to strip down the engine. Both outer cylinder pistons are sezed solid but I hope the two inner piston will move. Any body got any suggestions how I can remove the bearing caps off on no1 and 4. Bolts are removed but I am struggling to get caps off. If it helps I will be fitting new piston and liners. Any help very much appreciated Thanks Adrian Fuller
  7. Morning all. I will be doing the same when I get there, so would also appreciate a copy of the wiring diagram if you would not mind. Many thanks in advance. Adrian
  8. Evening all I am moving onto the engine rebuild and just though I should see how any body else approached removing pistons and wet liners that are probably past their best. I am currently thinking take crankshaft out {have not taken sump off to have a look down there yet) then lots of heat and beat the liners out then do whatever it takes to recover the con rods. I have got the muttering and foul language sorted. Thanks for any help Adrian
  9. Evening all Has anyone fitted a steering rack conversion from Moss. I have just fitted mine but am supprised at the angle of the the arm from the rack to the control arm (see photos below). If you have fitted one of these does it look correct?. Thanks in advance Adrian Fuller
  10. Evening all, another question. I am trying to finish building the front suspension and fit the shock absorber and bump stops but with the spring compressed with bolt up throght the front turret (see first photo) but I can not fit the shock absorber etc. I have tried the conventional type spring compressors (as shown in second picture) but there is not enough room between spring /lower and upper wishbone. Has anybody managed this with the engine out? If so please could you let me know how as this is very frustrating. Many thanks for any help Regards Adrian
  11. Hi I have now got seals etc fitted and am tightening everything up, however I fitted a new bottom trunnion which has no hole for split pin and was supplied with a nylock nut. My question is how tight should I tighten the nylock nut to obtain the 0.004_0.012 end float and did you then back off 1_2 flats to get the end float? Thanks Adrian
  12. Hope you all had a merry Xmas. I have just started rebuilding the front end and have realised that I appear to have 16 grease seals in supuerpro kit, I also have 16 in the original rubber (decided to go supuerpro after I bought the first kit). I am fitting supuerpro to the entire front end, my question is should I only need 4 either side of trunnion or should I be fitting more elsewhere and if so where?. Additionally I am assuming I stretch the seals over the thrust washer and splined washer etc as finding them very tight to get them on. Many thanks for any advice. Adrian
  13. Hi Thanks for all the advice, I have added shims and have 5 thou end float but will plan on doing this alll again when I am able to torque the half shaft nuts up and see how much of a difference that makes. Thanks againn for all your advuce Adrian
  14. Hi The bearings are all fully home and I have no paint where it would have an impact, however the hub is not fully torqued as diff is sat on a bare chassis so can not fully torque down, but I have gone as far as I can with an impact gun.
  15. Hi All I am trying to set the end float on the half shafts following a full diff rebuild (crown wheel, pinion bearings and seals) and having fitted new rear wheel bearings and seals, and having given the break backing plates a good clean up and coat of enamel paint (thicker than the original I am guessing). I did not measure the end float when I took this to bits but am now rebuilding and find that with the original shims fitted (approx 42" one side and 46" the other)I have no end float. I have backed off the bearing caps and I start to get an amount of end float with a bearing ca
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