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Adrian Fuller

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About Adrian Fuller

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  1. I had a similar issue with an Austin 8, turned out to be an intermittent bad earth on distributor / points backing plate. You can connect a very thin wire to the backing plate mounting screw and run out of the distributor onto a good earth. Very quick and easy to do and at least you then know its not a distributor earth problem. Good luck
  2. I did not know we had one, any idea how I contact them?
  3. Hi Thanks for the info Ian, I am hoping to get it registered before I finish ie before mot type test but will indicate rh drive on the form. Many thanks Adrian
  4. Morning all I have tried a search on First Vehicle TAX and Registration but have not found what I need to know so thought I would try a post. I purchased the 1958 TR3 about 5 years ago from Florida and have all import docs and tax forms are available for its import to the UK. I have progressed the restoration to a point where all running gear is restored and back on the chassis and the tub is all welded and placed on the chassis, the engine is now at the machine shop from machining and I hope to get this back in the next couple of weeks for assembly. A friend of mine applied for a First V
  5. Hi all I have decided to replace my damaged H6 carbs with Hs6, following a discussion the the distributor doctor he suggested that it would be better to fit the longer tr4 manifold as the HS6 are shorter than the H6 which results in a shorter distance from inlet valve to venturi and this impacts the torque at lower revs, he did say he was not sure so I thought it was worth a post on here. Also if the longer manifold is required does anyone know the Stan part number. Once again thanks in advance for your help Regards Adrian
  6. Hi all, the engine is getting machined so I have moved onto the carbs. Unfortunately the piston is sticking badly (almost solid) in the suction chamber. See photo with engineers blue mark, I have tried the other piston and that sticks in the same place. Is there a standard way to sort this out?. I was thinking of 2000 grit wet and dry then scotch bright cloth or is this just wasting my time?. If new carbs are required should I upgrade from h6 to hs6 as these are a lot cheaper. Many thanks for any help Adrian
  7. Thanks for the advice all. I am not sure what in am doing wrong but I really do struggle searching the site for specific subjects. I am only 8 miles from Hamlins and getting the machining completed there. I have another question about crank seals..as everything is in bits which is the best seal to go for, the one that requires a jig/alignment tool or the one that requires the crank machining?. The block is quite rough where the gasket sits! If it is not too bad and to avoid a load of machine work is there a quality sealer that could be used with a gasket?. Thanks again for advice.
  8. Hi all I am moving onto the engine rebuild so this is probably the start of many posts/questions, thanks in advance for any suggestions. The engine was seized including the cam but the crankshaft looks ok and will be checked along with the block and cylinder head checks for cracks. I am currently planning on fitting 87mm piston and liners, Max Speed con rods, a Newman P1 cam and followers, rear oils seal conversion (is there a proffered make/supplier/type? , I have already purchased a Phoenix big bore exhaust and manifold. I am now looking at the cylinder head which is an early hig
  9. Evening Bob I was looking at these and guess I will go that way. I assume the maxspeed con rods have the same white metal big end shell bearings. Was there any reason you stopped at 87mm? As I am planning on the 89mm liners. Also I believe you put many posts on here during the rebuild, any Idea how I find them allas I have had a good couple of hours trying to find them but failed miserably. Regards Adrian
  10. I have been looking at these after market Co rods and the are cheaper than getting new bolts for the original and fitting new little end bearings. I am sure I read somewhere that to use these there is some machining required on the liners due to the angle of the end caps, I'd this correct and had anybody got any info or videos on how to do this. I am currently planning to use 89mm liners if that makes a difference. Thanks again all
  11. I have not cleaned the liners, to be fair the pistons and bore are rusted due to water ingress through the carbs.. So everything else is in good order. Valve guides and cam followers are the next challenge.
  12. Big hammer and some 2x2 with a few choice words. What a good evenings work
  13. Evening all I have just started to strip down the engine. Both outer cylinder pistons are sezed solid but I hope the two inner piston will move. Any body got any suggestions how I can remove the bearing caps off on no1 and 4. Bolts are removed but I am struggling to get caps off. If it helps I will be fitting new piston and liners. Any help very much appreciated Thanks Adrian Fuller
  14. Morning all. I will be doing the same when I get there, so would also appreciate a copy of the wiring diagram if you would not mind. Many thanks in advance. Adrian
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