Engine and Gearbox back in and engine started but....

[Ian Vincent]

The title says it all, after numerous delays caused by a variety of factors outside my control I have finally got the engine and gearbox back into my TR3a.

It started easily enough but I have a couple of issues:

1. I have an oil leak from the banjo connection for the oil pressure gauge feed and,
2. I have a coolant leak from the top of the radiator return hose (not the bypass hose), where it connects to the steel downpipe

Number two is relatively easily dealt with although it does involve draining down the coolant to get to it, it's an area where I have had problems before and it already has two jubilee clips on it.  It seems that the stainless steel is slightly undersize compared to the hoses.

Number one is more of a problem, before I refitted it, I cleaned and annealed the two copper washers and I have tightened the nut to the correct torque.  Does anyone out there have any clever fixes for this  problem?  I can't be the only person who it has ever happened to - or am I?

All suggestions gratefully recieved.

Oh, and the good news is that the tappets and cam followers are as quiet as a mouse even at the correct clearances for my cam of 16 thou exhaust and 14 thou inlet.

Rgds Ian

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

I have not had issues.  The trick is keeping the inner washer concentric to the banjo I think    
   Perhaps Dowty washers instead of the copper?

Cheers

Peter W

[Lebro]

You have put the washer on in the right order ? big hole first, the banjo, the smaller hole. (sorry for asking )

Re the water leak - try smearing some hylomar (or similar) inside the rubber pipe before fitting.

Bob.

[boxofbits]

Are you sure the banjo is tight enough? If you have used a torque wrench setting and there is some binding on the thread then the banjo bolt may not be going all the way in?

Take the pipe off and just screw in the bolt and make sure it goes in as far as the threads allow.

Edited November 12, 2020 by boxofbits

[iain]

17 minutes ago, Lebro said:

You have put the washer on in the right order ? big hole first, the banjo, the smaller hole. (sorry for asking )

Re the water leak - try smearing some hylomar (or similar) inside the rubber pipe before fitting.

Bob.

+1 some Wellseal will usually help

[Ian Vincent]

Well done Bob, I had the washers in the wrong order.  I've changed them now and hopefully I've managed to keep the inner washer concentric with the stud.  It looks pretty good.

Wellseal is my usual trick for sealing hoses to pipes but in this case because I didn't need to dismantle the return hose and pipe arrangement I just reinstalled it without checking and then when I was squeezing to top hose to get rid of an airlock, I obviously disturbed the connection.  I've got a spare hose for top and bottom so when the radiator has finished draining down I shall re-make the whole thing properly.

Rgds Ian

[Ian Vincent]

The weather has finally relented and we have had a dry day without frost (and more importantly salt), so I was able to get out in the car for a drive.

I did a quick 30 mile loop through the lanes south of Frome and between 40 and 60 mph the engine was smooth as silk and quiet.  At low revs it seemed to struggle and stutter a bit but I put that down to the fuel being old and bought in the summer so it is probably the wrong volatility for this time of year even before it has deteriorated that way modern fuels do.  I shall have to drive a few more miles around the block and then go for a refill.

The one problem I did have was the oil pressure was too high.  When I first started it was sitting around 65psi and then as the oil warmed through it went up to about 70psi but once I had done about 10 - 15 miles and everything was nice and warm it went up to about 85psi at 2500 revs.  I'm going to back off the pressure release valve a little but is there an explanation for why when first starting and with the oil cold and thick the pressure only goes up to about 65psi?

Rgds Ian

Edited December 17, 2020 by Ian Vincent

[PodOne]

5 hours ago, Ian Vincent said:

The weather has finally relented and we have had a dry day without frost (and more importantly salt), so I was able to get out in the car for a drive.

I did a quick 30 mile loop through the lanes south of Frome and between 40 and 60 mph the engine was smooth as silk and quiet.  At low revs it seemed to struggle and stutter a bit but I put that down to the fuel being old and bought in the summer so it is probably the wrong volatility for this time of year even before it has deteriorated that way modern fuels do.  I shall have to drive a few more miles around the block and then go for a refill.

The one problem I did have was the oil pressure was too high.  When I first started it was sitting around 65psi and then as the oil warmed through it went up to about 70psi but once I had done about 10 - 15 miles and everything was nice and warm it went up to about 85psi at 2500 revs.  I'm going to back off the pressure release valve a little but is there an explanation for why when first starting and with the oil cold and thick the pressure only goes up to about 65psi?

Rgds Ian

Hi Ian

I'm not sure 85psi is too high as thinking back I think I saw this kind of level with the MX5 up the rpm range, 70psi cruising, 40psi at hot idle  and 60psi on start up. 

Suspect someone will be along shortly to give some feedback as to what a TR6 should give you. Just one thing is the oil pressure gauge/sender accurate?

Andy

[BlueTR3A-5EKT]

6 hours ago, Ian Vincent said:

The weather has finally relented and we have had a dry day without frost (and more importantly salt), so I was able to get out in the car for a drive.

I did a quick 30 mile loop through the lanes south of Frome and between 40 and 60 mph the engine was smooth as silk and quiet.  At low revs it seemed to struggle and stutter a bit but I put that down to the fuel being old and bought in the summer so it is probably the wrong volatility for this time of year even before it has deteriorated that way modern fuels do.  I shall have to drive a few more miles around the block and then go for a refill.

The one problem I did have was the oil pressure was too high.  When I first started it was sitting around 65psi and then as the oil warmed through it went up to about 70psi but once I had done about 10 - 15 miles and everything was nice and warm it went up to about 85psi at 2500 revs.  I'm going to back off the pressure release valve a little but is there an explanation for why when first starting and with the oil cold and thick the pressure only goes up to about 65psi?

Rgds Ian

I had this.  The oil pressure was great at start up then rose as I drove it.  When I stopped the pressure dropped to 25psi and rose/fell with engine rpm.  I concluded the PRV was jammed open.

My repair - Strip the oil pressure housing with spring and ball.  Clean everything.  It could be the spring binding in the housing or the ball not seating correctly.  I fitted a new ball and spring and all is now fine.  Some one on here wrote about a mod they did with a rod down the centre of the spring to stop it being forced over sideways and jamming.

Off the wall slightly here - what oil filter do you use?  Is it the standard set up or a spin on jobby.  Years ago I found the use of a felt oil filter element from MGC instead of a standard paper element dropped the oil pressure reading by almost 5psi.   Suggestion is 70 psi at 2000 rpm with engine at running temp.

Cheers

Peter W

[stuart]

13 hours ago, PodOne said:

Hi Ian

I'm not sure 85psi is too high as thinking back I think I saw this kind of level with the MX5 up the rpm range, 70psi cruising, 40psi at hot idle  and 60psi on start up. 

Suspect someone will be along shortly to give some feedback as to what a TR6 should give you. Just one thing is the oil pressure gauge/sender accurate?

Andy

Its a 4 cylinder.

Stuart.

[Hamish]

Ian

my 3a runs 70lb at 2000rpm + and tick over 50lb when warmed. 
 

I did have to alter the pressure valve after changing make of oil filter ( original style) as it went up on both readings 85 60 respectively 

but reset to normal now. 
 

you have made a few engine changes so maybe just back off the warm pressures and see how you go. 

[Ian Vincent]

The filter is a spin on K&N filter.

Whilst I had the engine out I had the crank crack tested, checked and balanced and the dimensions (big end and mains) were at the lower end of acceptable so it was reground.

I also  cleaned up and refaced the oil pump.

I did dismantle and clean the oil filter / pressure relief housing but there didn't appear to be anything amiss so I just reassembled it and reinstalled it onto the block.

So I'm not surprised that the oil pressure is good but I didn't expect it to be over 70psi because that was the point at which the pressure reliefe valve kicked in previously.

I will take it out and give it another check and if necessary replace the ball.

Rgds Ian

[stuart]

1 hour ago, Ian Vincent said:

The filter is a spin on K&N filter.

Whilst I had the engine out I had the crank crack tested, checked and balanced and the dimensions (big end and mains) were at the lower end of acceptable so it was reground.

I also  cleaned up and refaced the oil pump.

I did dismantle and clean the oil filter / pressure relief housing but there didn't appear to be anything amiss so I just reassembled it and reinstalled it onto the block.

So I'm not surprised that the oil pressure is good but I didn't expect it to be over 70psi because that was the point at which the pressure reliefe valve kicked in previously.

I will take it out and give it another check and if necessary replace the ball.

Rgds Ian

With all that done Im not surprised you have high pressure especially if you havent altered the setting of the valve, I would just unscrew it a little and reset it until you have a little less than that.

Stuart.