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Surrey hardtop roof panel fixing nut stripped


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Hi

The problem is that basically the Steel square nut worries the cage so that it deforms and the nut spins. You need to stop it doing that. Plastic metal works. Mix it up and carefully insert a good amount so that it fixes the nut in place.

if the threads are stripped you can also use plastic metal and drill and tap a thread set in. It won’t last forever but stands up to moderate use.

the only real way to fix it is to remove the old nut and cage and replace but it’s not an easy job or in the case of an aluminium lid rivet in a new nut and cage or insert a rivnut, but the latter is not neat.

Regards

Tony 

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The nut is not spinning, it’s just the threads that are very worn, but plastic metal is an option for that I guess. The lid doesn’t come off and on that often,  so could last a while?
 

The lid is steel. Are the cage nuts easily accessible once the headlining is moved?

Edited by johnwill
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The cage nuts are spot welded to a plate that in turn is spot welded to the front edge of the frame (presumably your talking about the front as the rears are different) you could if required ease the head lining back and then drill the spot welds out to remove the plate and then repair with the plate on the bench and then refit or as Tony says get some tape under the nut to stop excess going through and then fill the nut with likes of JB Weld and then redrill and tap.

Stuart.

Edited by stuart
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Replace them all with studs (use loctite or araldite on the worn one). Makes it so much easier to fit the lid as you can just spin the nuts on instead of trying to locate the bolt.

Jerry

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Thanks for the advice everyone. Food for thought. 
 

ive put a slightly larger dia bolt in at the moment, it’s holding but it’s not ideal. 
 

I had considered putting a stud in. Still an option. 
 

anyone know the original thread size of the bolts/captive nuts please?

Edited by johnwill
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Odd but on my car the threads are 5/16th UNF front and rear. Maybe a PO made the change on Graham's car. I have the original bolts at the front but fitted studs at the rear as Jerry suggests - much facilitates fitment.

Tim 

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