Jump to content

johnwill

Registered User
  • Content Count

    55
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About johnwill

  • Birthday 05/27/1954

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Coventry
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. No, 3ba is too big. Thanks anyway
  2. My guages thumb nuts are the same ID and thread as the Speedo & tacho, but as you say, the OD is larger on the Speedo & Tacho. Looks like i'll have to use normal nuts on my clock, will be more fiddly than the thumb nuts, but only solution I think.
  3. I think theyre the same thread, just larger O/D. The clock is smaller I/D... weird.
  4. Roger The thumb nuts on the instruments gauges, fuel, water etc are bigger I/D than the ones on my clock. (they slide straight down the threaded "bolt") The clock nuts are smaller. Are the guages 3ba? or bigger thanks John
  5. Thanks Tim. I assume the nuts on the rest of the guages is 2ba?
  6. I have a rectangular Smiths Clock in my 4A, I think originally in 2000's and 2.5's ? In my wisdom.... I decided to take it out to fix it, and in re-fitting, trying to put the back plate on, i dropped both the thumb nuts for it. Couldn't find them, so took the H frame out as I thought they had dropped down one of the "legs". Found one, but the 2nd had vanished completely. Anyone know where I can get these from? They are a smaller inner diameter than the thumb nuts on the rest of the gauges, not sure what thread? 3BA, 4BA? Any advice welcome. I have some standard nuts to use
  7. Thinking to the jobs I need to get done this winter, one of them is to get my speedo sorted. It's currently reading way too low, (1152 and worse on 1184) so my gauge, plus a friends spare 1152 and 1184 are all reading low. I have 165 x 15 tyres, 4.1 diff, standard box with o/d. I intended to get it to JDO or Speedy to re-calibrate but... Are all speedo's out or something amiss somewhere else? Any ideas welcome please. (I've already put tippex on to mark the correct speeds...it looks awful) Thanks John
  8. Some of the Coventry group came down to Minehead on Tuesday. We decided not to use the TR’s as it would be obvious we were a larger group together, so used our regular vehicles. had a TR follow us on the Fosse for awhile, then not far from Minehead, a red TR4 or 4a came past in the opposite direction. It was then we regretted not using our classics although, some of the jams we’ve been in since would have challenged the TR’s
  9. Thanks for the advice everyone. Food for thought. ive put a slightly larger dia bolt in at the moment, it’s holding but it’s not ideal. I had considered putting a stud in. Still an option. anyone know the original thread size of the bolts/captive nuts please?
  10. The nut is not spinning, it’s just the threads that are very worn, but plastic metal is an option for that I guess. The lid doesn’t come off and on that often, so could last a while? The lid is steel. Are the cage nuts easily accessible once the headlining is moved?
  11. As per the title, one of my Surrey hardtop roof panel fixing nuts has finally lost the ability to grip the bolt tightly. any ideas on the best way to resolve this? thanks john
  12. You’re using the scales incorrectly Roger. Remove the battery. It’s amazing how much weight you lose.
  13. I’m finding “debris” in the fuel pump glass bowl, so assume the fuel tank is showing signs of wear. It’s the original tank and sender unit etc. I’m planning to change the tank for a new one, probably steel. Should I also change the sender unit while I’m there? Are the ones available as good as original? Any other advice please? Thanks John
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.