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johnwill

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About johnwill

  • Birthday 05/27/1954

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  • Location
    Coventry
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A

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  1. Thinking to the jobs I need to get done this winter, one of them is to get my speedo sorted. It's currently reading way too low, (1152 and worse on 1184) so my gauge, plus a friends spare 1152 and 1184 are all reading low. I have 165 x 15 tyres, 4.1 diff, standard box with o/d. I intended to get it to JDO or Speedy to re-calibrate but... Are all speedo's out or something amiss somewhere else? Any ideas welcome please. (I've already put tippex on to mark the correct speeds...it looks awful) Thanks John
  2. Some of the Coventry group came down to Minehead on Tuesday. We decided not to use the TR’s as it would be obvious we were a larger group together, so used our regular vehicles. had a TR follow us on the Fosse for awhile, then not far from Minehead, a red TR4 or 4a came past in the opposite direction. It was then we regretted not using our classics although, some of the jams we’ve been in since would have challenged the TR’s
  3. Thanks for the advice everyone. Food for thought. ive put a slightly larger dia bolt in at the moment, it’s holding but it’s not ideal. I had considered putting a stud in. Still an option. anyone know the original thread size of the bolts/captive nuts please?
  4. The nut is not spinning, it’s just the threads that are very worn, but plastic metal is an option for that I guess. The lid doesn’t come off and on that often, so could last a while? The lid is steel. Are the cage nuts easily accessible once the headlining is moved?
  5. As per the title, one of my Surrey hardtop roof panel fixing nuts has finally lost the ability to grip the bolt tightly. any ideas on the best way to resolve this? thanks john
  6. You’re using the scales incorrectly Roger. Remove the battery. It’s amazing how much weight you lose.
  7. I’m finding “debris” in the fuel pump glass bowl, so assume the fuel tank is showing signs of wear. It’s the original tank and sender unit etc. I’m planning to change the tank for a new one, probably steel. Should I also change the sender unit while I’m there? Are the ones available as good as original? Any other advice please? Thanks John
  8. Out with a mate today and he mentioned he used to own the TR6 mentioned. shown as SORN. Any knowledge of this car on here? thanks John
  9. I have the Phoenix with big bore on my 4A, and it does sound a lot louder than my old twin pipe. Everyone tells me what a great sound it makes, but I have considered changing back, as I quite liked the sound from the twin pipes. Is there a connector available to the bottom of the Phoenix pipes for the twin pipe set up?
  10. Yes, I’ve done this (as mentioned in my last post) but still worth repeating. It’s advice I saw on here many moons ago, and does work. thanks john
  11. Update: I put the new m/c back on, checked all brake line connections, no leaks but pinched them up a fraction more, re-bled a couple of times and then blocked the pedal down (also tightened rear adjusters) and left for a couple of days. pedal felt firmer on first push, not to floor, so took it for a test drive. Brakes working well, pedal half way down. will let everything bed down for some miles, and then may re-bleed again. hopefully sorted now, so thanks for all the advice. john
  12. I am starting to wonder if my servo is starting to fail, given it’s age. My last one failed quite obviously, cloud of white smoke out the exhaust and no brakes ! i’ve seen the warnings about cheaper servo’s on the other threads, so if I do go that route, will find some extra pennies. will try everything else first though.
  13. Ian, this assumes the furthest and nearest are “as the crow flies” from the m/c rather than pipe length? on pipe length, my nearest is Servo, n/s front, then o/s front, n/s rear and o/s rear.
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