Peter V W Posted May 28, 2020 Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 Pleas see attached photo, I assume the spire nuts should be inside the door shell, not as shown. To easy as shown and I assume would pull out when used. If so any tips on how to fit inside? regards Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
John Morrison Posted May 28, 2020 Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 Hi Peter, best fix for this is to do away with these and make a simple bar, say 3mm thick by 10 or 15 mm and drill and tap for both. John. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted May 28, 2020 Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 Hi Peter, simply get one side of the clip over the edge of the door frame hole and then using a thin blade lever the other side over. Don't lose or break them as they are irreplaceable Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 28, 2020 Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 (edited) Last time I fitted pull handles to a TR door I used this sort of thing from my drawer of many oddments Peter W PS also used to hold headlamp buckets in. Edited May 28, 2020 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter V W Posted May 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 Thank you all for your tips, I seem to lack the dexterity to get the little b#####s in. Will try the plastic option. Peter V W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted May 28, 2020 Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 Try passing a 3 foot length of thin wire in one square hole , fed onto it the two clip nuts back to back, then pass the wire back out the other square hole. pull the two ends of the wire so the clip nuts are just in contact with the inside of the door frame. Clamp the wire so the clip nuts remain where they are and cannot drop into the well of the door. Now start fiddling to fit the things. Each time they spring out they will still be near to where you want them. As Roger says. Get one leg of the clip in the Door frame then squeeze and tease the other leg in. when done remove wire. Cheers Peter W Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted May 28, 2020 Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 If your not fitting them can I have them please? Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted May 28, 2020 Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 I filed down a pair of M4 captive (cage) nuts they need a couple of ml to get them to fit in front to back - I also took the square nut out of the cage and filed that down so I could squeeze the cage enough to get it to fit in the square hole in the door frame. Wind window down, remove the weather strips and fiddle! I used a small magnetic pick up to stop me dropping it into the door whilst I got it in place and pressed it in with my fingers. Went ok on passenger side and psyching myself up for the drivers door! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter V W Posted May 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2020 One happy boy! thanks Peter and Roger for the wire and nuts tip, worked well with a little tool as a lever. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted June 5, 2020 Report Share Posted June 5, 2020 An update: The original 8/32 gage nut are no longer supplied. Oddly the same part number is used on the bumpers but is a significantly larger size! Following RogerH's tip about the likely thread size I lashed out a whole £4.95 on Ebay and re-cut the threads for the 4A door handles that had been butchered by someone screwing them on with woods crews into the original cage nuts. Buoyed by my success I thought about the M4 cage nuts I'd used to fit the same handles on the 6 by filing down to fit the apertures in the door frame as in Peter's photo (so I could use the cheaper repro door tops to replace the 20 year old originals that had disintegrated and are over £100 each). M4s are ideal in terms of size to recut with the 8/32 tap. So now held on with proper TR size screws! 4A door handles appear to be the same as fitted to many other cars such as the Elans and dare I say it MGs and are much cheaper on Ebay than the TR parts suppliers. This time I used the slide it down the wire technique which takes away the risk of it dropping into the door and with it the need to fully remove the door cards. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter V W Posted June 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 Hi, Door card fitted, with new spring behind new door card, spring looks to be forcing card away from door shell. any ideas what’s wrong? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 6, 2020 Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 Hi Peter, what is that metallic lump above the door handle - doesn;t look right Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter V W Posted June 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2020 Hi Roger, That is the door open/shut mechanism as shown in photos above. Peter Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 Should it not be behind the metal inner skin? Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 Next time you have the door card off Pete, could you post a picture showing the whole door please? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 Hi Peter, I think you have the mechanism upside down. Perhaps on the wrong side of the car. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter V W Posted June 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 Hi Pete & Roger, just removed drivers side door card. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 Hi Peter, I'll take my door card off tomorrow and see what is happening. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter V W Posted June 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 11 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Peter, I'll take my door card off tomorrow and see what is happening. Roger Roger please don’t go to that trouble, it’s a bit fiddly. I Have looked at my repair manual and it looks ok. I think the new spring is pushing door card away. (Passenger side) the driver’s door card was flat before I removed it, and the mechanism is the same but handed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 That cranked bit looks awfully close to the top, but maybe it's different on the 4A - I guess the photo is your TR5? Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter V W Posted June 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 Yes Pete. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Geko Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 12 minutes ago, stillp said: That cranked bit looks awfully close to the top, but maybe it's different on the 4A - I guess the photo is your TR5? Pete Yes but the problem is the spring, turning it around or cutting it will probably solve the problem Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 OK, it seems the remote door lock linkage is different on the 5/6 to the 4/4A. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 4 minutes ago, Geko said: Yes but the problem is the spring, turning it around or cutting it will probably solve the problem Simpler to put the old spring back in! Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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