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jogger321

Removing Exhaust Manifold...any tips?

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The TR6 Pi that I put back on the road after a 26 year gap of storage has been behaving itself really well the last couple of years covering nearly 3,000 virtually trouble free miles...

Last week I noticed what I believe is a slighly leaking exhaust manifold to engine gasket...The two nuts (top and bottom) holding it nearest the bulkhead were loose...I did tighten them up and also all the other nuts (which moved) however we still have the leak so I guess i'm going to have to remove the manifold and throttle bodies in order to do this.

I wonder if there are any tips on the best way of going about this...I'm concerned about snapping the studs on the head and also throttle body realignment? on reassembly.

The gasket i'm intending to purchase is one of these...Should I use anything on the mating surfaces?

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Payen-JA510-Manifold-Gasket/143299846365?epid=248851123&hash=item215d5620dd:g:8gYAAOSwWYxdNlmy

 

Many thanks

 

 

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I'd spray the nuts each day with nut release spray until I tackled the job. Payen gaskets are good quality, I'd apply a smear of graphite grease each side to help them bed in when torqued up.

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Well, some of them are definitely not seized!      Others, tighten first, then ease off, reversing the direction briefly every turn, like driving a tap.  There you are releasing swarf, here, corrosion.    Lubricate as suggested while you do it, and if the nuts beging to squeal, STOP!, go back, relubricate and use more cautious easing.     The squeal indicates seizing, which can snap the stud.

And replace with Bronze nuts. so avoid future seizing.

John

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You need a decent exhaust manifold gasket, as a lot on the market, certainly for the TR5/6, are not great quality at all.  If you get one not to 'blow', it is a matter of time before they start to break down on the mating surfaces.

Bastuck in Germany will sell you a high quality steel gasket, which are very robust. Part number MD9TR6.

 

Cheers.

Edited by TRTOM2498PI

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Thanks chaps...A quick look just now .....I've just put penetrating oil on each nut.... I've tried to turn them all and it appears the nuts are all seized but without much brute force they are turning because the stud is also turning (i.e coming out siezed on the nut).....I haven't broken anything yet

 

Will this method be ok if I simply replace with all new studs and nuts etc?

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I re-used the studs where possible, as long as not corroded/damaged. I used brass nuts too. This is also a good moment to check/clean the fuel system and throttle linkage.

Waldi

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Hi John, think they are machined from hex bar.

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I've had no problem with brass nuts, but you can use steel nuts with graphite grease- the oil in the grease evaporates eventually but the film of graphite left being will stop the nuts from seizing nest time. Make sure your studs are actually unscrewing from the block-  if they break off it's a whole new world of pain.

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Jogger321 (aka??)

It's not uncommon for the studs to come out with the nuts on them. You did say earlier that the nuts all moved when you tried to tighten them, so if you can get the bottom 6 nuts and/or studs loose enough to twist the "slugs" that jointly hold both exhaust manifold and throttle bodies you can then remove the throttle bodies. This gives a clear sight to remove the studs/nuts to check that they are not shearing off.

The Payen JA 510 gasket is a good serviceable item which doesn't normally give any problems. It's clearly marked which side to put to the manifold and which to the cylinder head so it's fool proof (no insult intended.)

Dave McD 

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Thanks for the info. Good news they have all come out without any studs snapping or threads stripping...I'm a meer novice at this stuff... A few of the bottom bolts securing the throttle bodies were tricky to remove as in I couldnt get a 1/2" socket drive on them. I bought a 3/8" extension bar and used that along with the correct socket and sorted it..

I have ordered a Payen gasket and will reassemble with graphite grease the studs and both surfaces of the gasket...

The other good news was that the manifold easily came away from the head giving enough room to remove the exhaust gasket...without further dismantlement of the exhaust system

 

 

headgasket2.jpeg

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Well done.  Looks like good progress.  You may be new to this but in the end these cars are relatively simple.  3 rules that have stood me in good stead. 

1) ask for advice before you begin (which you did)  

2) if you hit a hitch, have a cuppa.  Too many times I have got frustrated and done more damage rather than cooling off and considering options. 

3) celebrate when things work (beer, wine whatever)

 

Cheers

Tim

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Make sure the gasket seating faces of both the head, TB’s and exhaust manifold are thoroughly cleaned before fitting the new gasket. If all studs are removed, this goes a lot easier.

Waldi

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