Richardtr3a Posted March 13, 2019 Report Share Posted March 13, 2019 I am trying to remove the tie rod ball joint ends and the silent-bloc pins. After the whole afternoon I managed to release one ball joint. The silent-bloc pins are hard to reach and will not budge even with a long lever. There is no room for a hammer. Do I need a special tool ? Please let me know if there is a special technique ?? Richard & B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BlueTR3A-5EKT Posted March 13, 2019 Report Share Posted March 13, 2019 (edited) Ball Joints - I have a small one of these I find often will do it - but mangles the gaiters. https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/items/?_nkw=ball+joint+seperator&_sacat=&_ex_kw=&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_sop=12&_fpos=&_fspt=1&_sadis=&LH_CAds= Ball joints and silentbloc/pin - I also have a small one of these that just fits in between chassis and lever. Tight fit but does the job OK - Tighten it and just tap the side of the 'eye' and hey presto. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ball-Joint-Splitter-Tie-Rod-End-Puller-Seperator-Remover-Removal-Separator-15-59/221990187273?hash=item33afa57109:g:4CcAAOSwLN5WkSeR&frcectupt=true Or back to how we did it years ago....Two hammers, one drift and two people. One to hold a lump of metal or club hammer against one side of the 'eye' on the lever, to stop the reaction. The other person to whack the drift ( bit of 3/4" sq brass/ally bar about a foot long) with a hammer against the other side of the 'eye'. Thus squeezing the eye and popping the taper out. Levering upward out of the taper at the same time is also of benefit. Remember to have the nut fitted only finger tight or you will curse trying to undo a nyloc once the taper is not gripping the pin from rotating. Cheers Peter W Edited March 13, 2019 by BlueTR3A-5EKT Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted March 13, 2019 Report Share Posted March 13, 2019 That tool shown by Peter is useful in combination with the two hammers one either side of the "eye". Apply the tool and just put a couple of turns onto the centre bolt of the tie rod which has had the nut undone down to the nyloc but still in place, and the tie rod has tension on it. Then striking one hammer against the tie rod with the other hammer held behind it with your hand, the "temporal malformation" (the ripple through the Tie rod taper caused by the hammer impact through the molecular structure of the taper) allows the two tapers to spring apart breaking the "ringing effect" the two tapers induce, keeping them clamped together. The tension induced by the tool encourages the parting of the tapers. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
foster461 Posted March 13, 2019 Report Share Posted March 13, 2019 The silentbloc bushes are pressed in and it probably easiest to take the drag link off so you can use a vice and suitable socket to press the old ones out. Stan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 13, 2019 Report Share Posted March 13, 2019 +1 for removing the whole link arm, then replace with the PTFE / stainless pin type. Bob Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted March 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 Thanks for all the advice. I used a tapered shaped chisel and a hammer and all the joints are now split. I was expecting to pull out the steering box easily. But it looks to be too big to fit through the chassis and body space So now I need advice on how to manoeuvre the box and shaft out. I can not have to take the body off the chassis. Any help would be very useful. I had to stop this evening because it was cold, windy and damp. I must get a bigger garage so that I can close the doors. Thanks Richard and B Quote Link to post Share on other sites
david ferry Posted March 15, 2019 Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 Can it be withdrawn through the grille hole in the front apron? If not, I suspect that you will have to remove the front apron. I wonder if this is why later cars had a split column? David Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted March 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2019 I am sure that te split column is easier. I have already removed the front apron. luckily I used stainless steel fixings last time. It looks as if I may have to take off the cross member bolted between the turrets. I hope not. thanks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted March 28, 2019 Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 Hi Richard, This the type that works and does not damage gaitors. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ball-Joint-Splitter-Tie-Rod-End-Puller-Seperator-Remover-Removal-Separator-15-59/221990187273?hash=item33afa57109:g:4CcAAOSwLN5WkSeR The front apron needs to be removed and probably the radiator which gives the best chance. the fitting of the idler rod is not easy without. The more room you have the better the job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richardtr3a Posted March 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 The front apron was the removed at the start and came off easily. Once the radiator was fully in view it showed a leak and was sent away for overhaul. The radiator company collected and delivered with no extra charge as they were collecting in my area anyway. I have replaced the entire steering column with a second hand one from a friend and it came with one tie rod with a ball joint each end. It took me a while to notice that it was over an inch longer than my original. I called the friend and the garage who took it off a TR3 with minilite wheels. But no one could explain it. Did any cars have a longer tie rod ?? This suspicious one is bright plated and the ball joints are not so fully inserted as my own originals so that the entire assembly is too long by about 1 1/2 " Unfortunately the owner is no longer with us and his wife has a driver when she wants to use it. Probably not interested in tie rod lengths. Any advice? Thanks Richard & B. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted March 28, 2019 Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 Maybe someone fitted these https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr3314k/name/steering-geometry-imp-kit-tr2-3b The kit included longer tie rods. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted March 28, 2019 Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 Hi Richard I think I have a spare if you need it. Rod Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bob Smith Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 Richard, I still have the Outer Tie Rod Assembly 110470 brand new original Stanpart item that we discussed previously. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted March 29, 2019 Report Share Posted March 29, 2019 Hi Richard. I have misunderstood what your issue is , I was thinking it was the arm that connects the idler arm to steering box arm. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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