iani Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 My wife carefully removed the black vinyl cover from my H frame bracket in preparation for fitting a leather cover, unfortunately there are a couple of areas where the foam has been lost. Can anyone recommend a suitable filler product to smooth these gaps out? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 Hi Ian, how about builders aerosol gap filler foam. It sets quite stiff and can be easily cut and shaped. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted January 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 (edited) Do you mean the expanding foam type Roger? I'll get some and give it a go, I was thinking of smoothing over the whole foam but it's not really necessary I don't think. Edited January 14, 2019 by iani Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 Hi Ian, yes - expandy dandy foam. Try and fill in as many pock marks as possible Anything bigger than an atom may show through the leather cover. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted January 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 21 minutes ago, RogerH said: Hi Ian, yes - expandy dandy foam. Try and fill in as many pock marks as possible Anything bigger than an atom may show through the leather cover. Roger I'll give it a go, will fill the two switch holes the PO used for toggle switches that weren't wired up too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 (edited) Take care to read the instructions on the foam aerosol, I used cavity building foam and from memory it requires water to be present to fully activate the foaming agent. I misted the interior of my TR7 wings with water before spraying them with the foam for crash protection, and it reacted like crazy with it, fully expanded filling in spaces and adhering to panels, After 48 hours I just cut off the excess which protruded from the various holes and seals with the missus's carving knife. If it isn't fully reacted it WILL continue to react as it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere or gets rained on which could be weeks or months later. A fellow competitor had sprayed the foam into his wings without spraying previously with water and every time I saw him that season his wings were taking on a different shape ! finally ending up with a series of stress wrinkles across the surface of the glass fibre wings as it tried to expand the outer wings from the inner shell. Mick Richards Edited January 14, 2019 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted January 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 Noted Mickey, thanks for the heads up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark69 Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 (edited) Why not try silicone sealant remains flexible, were as the foam goes hard and if compressed won’t regain shape. Just a thought. It’s also very flammable when cured unless you use the fireproof Mark Edited January 14, 2019 by Mark69 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted January 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 Thanks Mark, good idea and I have some I can try with. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted January 14, 2019 Report Share Posted January 14, 2019 14 minutes ago, Mark69 said: Why not try silicone sealant remains flexible, were as the foam goes hard and if compressed won’t regain shape. Just a thought. It’s also very flammable when cured unless you use the fireproof Mark Good point Mark, but isn't it already covered in a similar foam. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeanF Posted January 15, 2019 Report Share Posted January 15, 2019 I removed all the foam from mine and then re-covered it with wheel arch foam - the one which goes under the vinyl on the arches. Stuck it down with spray contact adhesive and then applied the vinyl cover. I was happy with the result. The only problem was that removing the original vinyl removed the little step on each side on which the kidney panels sat and my new cover didn't have them. I had assumed that they were part of the ali casting, not just in the vinyl pressing. Cheers, Sean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted January 15, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2019 Looks good Sean, most of my foam has survived so I still have the indentation. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marc R Posted January 16, 2019 Report Share Posted January 16, 2019 Hi Ianai, the shape of the rectangular area to insert the radio have been extended for modern Radio. If you intend to install an old or a period one, you will have to reduce the allocated space. Some TR6men will certainly be able to provide the extact & original dimensions and position of the rectangular section and of the 2 holes for the radio control. Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted January 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 11 hours ago, Marc R said: Hi Ianai, the shape of the rectangular area to insert the radio have been extended for modern Radio. If you intend to install an old or a period one, you will have to reduce the allocated space. Some TR6men will certainly be able to provide the extact & original dimensions and position of the rectangular section and of the 2 holes for the radio control. Regards Thanks Marc, I am going to fill this space with a triple gauge mounting bracket designed for MGB’s, the hole is just large enough to accommodate the gauges. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil M Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 Hi Ian, coincidentally, I have just completed the same thing in the process of refurbishing the whole cabin. I had the H Frame sand blasted and recovered it in a pre-moulded vinyl cover and fitted the MG triple gauge panel. As the panel had a wrinkle finish I sanded it and resprayed. I also fitted a twin switch plate underneath, and finished using black hex bolts. It gets a bit tight as you need to take into account the fitting bracket under the dash. if it helps here are a couple of snaps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
openroad Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 I see that you also fitted the MGB Chrome Gearstick surround. Makes a neat job, not sure if i would do it , but that's just me....I think it looks good. Cheers Conrad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iani Posted January 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 Thanks Phil, I’ve trial fitted it in my car and I’m hoping using slightly larger washers will hold it in place, it’s a tight fit though and I just hope the leather doesn’t make it too tight. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Phil M Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 Ian, your right it's bloody tight, I made it worse be using Dodo(sound deadening), underlay and then carpet, probably a bit OTT. It's easier if you unscrew and unbolt the centre switch panel first. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeanF Posted January 17, 2019 Report Share Posted January 17, 2019 6 hours ago, Phil M said: Ian, your right it's bloody tight, I made it worse be using Dodo(sound deadening), underlay and then carpet, probably a bit OTT. It's easier if you unscrew and unbolt the centre switch panel first. I removed the sound deadening and underlay from the area under the legs of the H frame and fitted it directly to the floor and let the floor carpet cover over the feet. It was still bl**dy tight and hard to line up the face bolt holes with the holes in the metal dash. I found it helped to tighten down the bottom bolts into the chassis first. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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