Phil M

That's useful information guys, thanks

Hi, I finally got to the bottom of the TR6 ‘curse’ of bad starting on my ‘6’, the Throttle Bodies and Distributor needed refurbishment, fitted a new Petronix ignition and coil. When bad starting still continued I looked at the Choke cables and found the MU mixer cable while still connected had concertinaed within the choke barrel, I put this down to the choke knob being rotated over the years, there was still movement in the inner cable but insufficient to move the MU mixture sufficient. I’ve soldered new inner cables and the engine now starts first or second turn of the key. But, now I’m ensure how far the MU mixer lever should move under full choke, can anyone please advise? Thanks Phil

Hi Iain Put mine in the top hose, mine is a 'push' fan

Jochem, Nigel Many thanks will order Regards Phil;

Hi, I having my inlet manifolds reconditioned by Malcolm at Prestige and need a new inlet/exhaust gasket, having read a number of threads I decided a Payen was the best to go for. I have tried the links on this site to Ebay and another supplier but they are all out of stock, and trawling the internet has drawn a blank. Does any one know a supplier that may have one in stock Many Thanks Phil

John, I came across this thread when I renewed my hubs springs etc earlier this year The correct ride height for the TR6 according to Triumph was 26.75" at the front and 27" at the rear to the underside of the wing at its highest point over the wheels, This of course assumes that you have kept the same rolling radius on your tyres as per the original 165HR x circa 80 aspect tyres. The gaps with original tyres when new would have been 2.25" at the front and 2.5" at the rear assuming 0.9" compression of the tyre. -----https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/35830-ride-height/----- Regards Phil

Hi Andy, Mark's right forgot to mention that, my Distributor had the vacuum advance, Martin disconnected that and blanked it off

Hi Andy, in a similar situation I could not get my 72 CP to run correctly and the id on the distributor did not match any of the numbers in the manual, I called Martin Jay ( Dist Doc) and he said, "it never will run correctly as its for a GT6 the weights are all wrong" ; obviously a PO had fitted the wrong distributor. Martin took my distributor refurbished it and set it up for a 72CP and re-stamped it a 22D6 Martin did an excellent job, money well spent Regards Phil

Gents,Thanks for the feedback, Graham, did you consider using the new lock and modifying the crash pad or was it a case the lock did not fit thanks

Hi, I have a 1972 CP TR6 and the ignition switch lock barrel has broken in two, I have purchased a new one from Rimmer's and to make sure I received the correct version I rang them up and ordered a replacement. However, when I compare the old and new they are different. I have not offered the new on to the steering column yet but looking at them I will need to modify the ignition crash pad to accommodate the new one and make a new clamp. I have trawled the forum and cannot find any reference to modifying the crash pad which leads me to thinking , 'have I got the right one', before I contact Rimmer's I thought I would seek your advice, have any of you come across this before and do I have the correct lock, see picture below Thanks Phil

This is the first real evidence I have seen that a particular suppler does not put ethanol in their high octane fuel, so I'l go to Esso in future, I've used Tesco Momentum until now. Have a read of this , this company Greenenergy, I've seen their tanks on the road, have 5% in both normal and high octane https://www.greenergy.com/uploads/LdcN6uEgdclc_Unleaded 95 Petrol_specification sheet_Feb18.pdf

That reminds me of a Jackie Mason joke "I asked my wife what she wanted for Christmas", she said "A Divorce", I said "I wasn't thinking of spending that much"....

Thanks Roger, Rich Ill try and re tap the hole first if that doesn't work I could be emailing you for a new tank

Hi, having just stoped two oil leaks ( sump & sealing block) then a fuel line, I now have a leak from the fuel sender gasket, over the last year I belived I had eliminated all fuel pongs, or so I thought..On the car's first outing this year I thought I would fill the tank, only to find there is a small leak from the sender gasket, I tried half a turn on the sender screw only to find it will not tighten nor will another, so the threads gone. Are these screws self tappers or bolted screws, and has any one experience this and a solution? Thanks Phil

Gents, Thanks for your advice, I have taken it on board and oerdered a complete fuel pipe set ( 3/16 copper) from TRGB, the guys there are always helpful and offer advice from the mechanics as well. Regards