Phil M

This is the first real evidence I have seen that a particular suppler does not put ethanol in their high octane fuel, so I'l go to Esso in future, I've used Tesco Momentum until now. Have a read of this , this company Greenenergy, I've seen their tanks on the road, have 5% in both normal and high octane https://www.greenergy.com/uploads/LdcN6uEgdclc_Unleaded 95 Petrol_specification sheet_Feb18.pdf

That reminds me of a Jackie Mason joke "I asked my wife what she wanted for Christmas", she said "A Divorce", I said "I wasn't thinking of spending that much"....

Thanks Roger, Rich Ill try and re tap the hole first if that doesn't work I could be emailing you for a new tank

Hi, having just stoped two oil leaks ( sump & sealing block) then a fuel line, I now have a leak from the fuel sender gasket, over the last year I belived I had eliminated all fuel pongs, or so I thought..On the car's first outing this year I thought I would fill the tank, only to find there is a small leak from the sender gasket, I tried half a turn on the sender screw only to find it will not tighten nor will another, so the threads gone. Are these screws self tappers or bolted screws, and has any one experience this and a solution? Thanks Phil

Gents, Thanks for your advice, I have taken it on board and oerdered a complete fuel pipe set ( 3/16 copper) from TRGB, the guys there are always helpful and offer advice from the mechanics as well. Regards

Hi, My return fuel pipe from the metering unit to the tank has sprung a leak on the bend just as it comes out the MU. On my car the pipe is a single rubber pipe based pipe all the way to the tank which has an outside material braid. The replacements from Moss and Rimmer are in about six pieces and not all available, my question is can anyone tell me the internal diameter of the pipe, the length needed to run the length of the car, what spec it should be and a suggested supplier.? I have trawled the other threads and down a blank. Many thanks Phil

Thanks Waldi

Hi, I'm overhauling the rear suspension new springs(standard), bushes, brackets etc and need to lower the near-side a bit to match the off-side. When I removed the old springs the off-side had a 25mm steel spacer fitted, I assumed to compensate for a sagging off-side spring, however when I fitted the new springs with poly spacers top and bottom the ride height is correct on the off-side but too high on the near-side and noticable ( 25mm higher), which lead me to believe the original spacer was not for a saggy spring but something not quite right between the chassis and body.. To over come this I have ordered slightly lower (3/4") springs and intend to add a 0.625 inch ally spacer on the off-side, my question is, if I want to lower it even further is it essential there are poly spacers both top and bottom of the spring? Thanks Phil

HI Nick, I agree with the comments to go down the CDD route, I have just completed providing new 3/8ths studs. Alistair at CDD provides a complete jig set , taps, drill and studs. The first jig is used to drill the holes and a second jig to tap the holes, two taps are used a taper and a plug, the set comes with comprehensive instructions. I believe it would be impossible to get 6 studs drilled and tapped perpendicular to take the hub. Regards Phil

Interesting, thanks for your advise gents,

Thanks Mick, that's this afternoons job, well it will be if Amazon deliver the silicon grease.. Regards Phil

Apologies if this seems an obvious questions, but I am in the process of fitting new Poly Bushes to the TA's and wondering when I pull them in, do I do it with the centre S/Steel tube in place or insert it after the bush is in?. Thanks Phil

Graeme, I bought a full set of looks(same key), Doors, Boot and Glove box from Rimmer's two weeks ago, they do various combinations https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID600308 Regards Phil

I'm in the process of renovating the interior of my CP and purchased the vinyl backed foam door pulls (£160) from Rimmer's and found the profile is way out. Rimmer's agreed they do not fit and refunded my money. Spoke to TR Shop, they can order the correct vinyl/foam door pulls from the USA and assured they would fit approx £180. I decided to copy one of the USA guys and cover the door cap with foam and vinyl myself, I used 3/8" sticky back foam trimmed the edges and then cover in a vinyl the same as the on the door card, this gives a good quality feel. I purchased chrome doors pulls, bolts and cage nuts from TR Shop, I have had to opened the hole slightly for the nuts, I did contemplate rivet nuts but cage nuts give a little play, I'm still faffing with the clips on the back of the door card at the mo. Best Regards Phil

Update, decided to send the vinyl door pulls back to Rimmer's, ( they apologised and know they don't fit..) and purchased TR4 handles & nuts from TR Shop. I will cover the door cap in a DIY foam and vinyl covering, got the idea from one of the US guys website. TR Shop said the door skin hole needs to be widened a tad to take the cage nuts. Regards Phil