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Phil M

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    65
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Phil M

  • Birthday 11/27/1956

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ware, Herts
  • Cars Owned:
    1972 TR6
    1977 Stag
    2015 Discovery Sport
    Accord Type
    Elise S2
    Dolomite Sprint
    1600E
    Escourt Harrier

Recent Profile Visitors

446 profile views
  1. I used an old bicycle inner tube cut to shape
  2. Steve, if it were me I would definitely take Ian up on his offer, it will save a lot of aggravation
  3. Steve, when I replaced mine a year ago I tried to get the original lock i.e single sided key, the lock on the left of the picture at the top, both Rimmer's and Moss advertised such lock, bit what turned upon as the lock on the right, double sided key. I contacted both and another supplier all said, the double sided key lock was all that was available now. I recall there were two options for connections, wired and spade terminals both inserts to the main body. Rgds Phil
  4. Hi Steve, Yes I had to modify the crash pad by grinding the metal internal support plate and sponge then cut the mounting clip, see photos I also had a problem with the steering column anti torque strap fowling the rear terminal section of the ignition switch preventing the steering lock engaging, the fix was using an angle grinder to remove the lower of the torque stray cross members. To maintain the straps strength I welded the cross member further up the strap. There may be an easier solution, but at the time I could not find a thread on the subject Regards Phil
  5. Phil M

    Top crash pad

    Yep, that is a standard problem, I went through this a year ago. I bought the Poly Black pad and was so disappointed in the quality, plus the contoures were not good I sent it back and got a refund. I then went to another supplier and for £30-40 more I got the vinyl covered foam and it looks great. Rgds Phil
  6. I had the same problem as Neil when I replaced mine last year, it required a rubber mallet change its shape, as Ed say's if you can repair the old one thats the best way to go. I completely refurbished the cabin last year and off all the tasks and some are a pain, the glove box was the worst, a pain in the rear end..
  7. Hi Andy, I bought a box of those useless Red/Blue/Yellow connectors when I bought my '6' two years ago, can you recommend a decent suppler ? ThanksPhil
  8. Hi Paul, that looks good, post a pic when you fit the grill. Ever since I painted my grill I've been toying with the idea of painting behind the grill When the cars left the factory was the rear or the grill the car colour or black? Cheers Phil
  9. Phil M

    Missing part

    Mark, BTY, you may find the steering clamp has cut into the soft aluminium steering cowl living two long gouges down the cowl. I took the lead from Ed- 'Bullfire' and used a very thin piece of tin (bake bean can I think) to protect the soft aluminium, if its too thick you can't get the clamp on. Worked well
  10. Phil M

    Missing part

    Hi Mark, I agree with Kev, I refurbished my steering and cabin last year and my 1972 CP did not have the tie rod, seems fine without it Regards
  11. Plus I used Bars Flush fluid and to make life a little easy on the next flush in fitted a Tap
  12. Hi Colin Im sure there will be many comments but in the process of curing my overheating when I got my '6", I power flushed from the top radiator hose in to the engine and out the block, plus I made my own sealed system to inject the water. I had a spare water pump connector ( poor soldering) I also bought a Radiator flush kit and fitted a 'T" connector into the top hose to the heater matrix https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/215085676 Regards Phil
  13. Hi Steve, what make of lift is that and what was the spec for the floor? Regards Phil
  14. That's useful information guys, thanks
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