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Phil M

TR Register Members
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    32
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About Phil M

  • Birthday 11/27/1956

Profile Information

  • Location
    Ware, Herts
  • Cars Owned:
    1972 TR6
    1977 Stag
    2015 Discovery Sport
    Accord Type
    Elise S2
    Dolomite Sprint
    1600E
    Escourt Harrier

Recent Profile Visitors

146 profile views
  1. Interesting, thanks for your advise gents,
  2. Thanks Mick, that's this afternoons job, well it will be if Amazon deliver the silicon grease.. Regards Phil
  3. Apologies if this seems an obvious questions, but I am in the process of fitting new Poly Bushes to the TA's and wondering when I pull them in, do I do it with the centre S/Steel tube in place or insert it after the bush is in?. Thanks Phil
  4. Graeme, I bought a full set of looks(same key), Doors, Boot and Glove box from Rimmer's two weeks ago, they do various combinations https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID600308 Regards Phil
  5. I'm in the process of renovating the interior of my CP and purchased the vinyl backed foam door pulls (£160) from Rimmer's and found the profile is way out. Rimmer's agreed they do not fit and refunded my money. Spoke to TR Shop, they can order the correct vinyl/foam door pulls from the USA and assured they would fit approx £180. I decided to copy one of the USA guys and cover the door cap with foam and vinyl myself, I used 3/8" sticky back foam trimmed the edges and then cover in a vinyl the same as the on the door card, this gives a good quality feel. I purchased chrome doors pulls, bolts and cage nuts from TR Shop, I have had to opened the hole slightly for the nuts, I did contemplate rivet nuts but cage nuts give a little play, I'm still faffing with the clips on the back of the door card at the mo. Best Regards Phil
  6. Update, decided to send the vinyl door pulls back to Rimmer's, ( they apologised and know they don't fit..) and purchased TR4 handles & nuts from TR Shop. I will cover the door cap in a DIY foam and vinyl covering, got the idea from one of the US guys website. TR Shop said the door skin hole needs to be widened a tad to take the cage nuts. Regards Phil
  7. Graham, Rich, thanks for your comments I gave TR Shop a call to discuss the options and will probably go for plain door caps they get from the US, but they are out of stock at the mo, plus separate door handles. I have sent the Rimmer's vinyl caps back for a refund. Never seen a black veneered caps sounds interesting, you haven't by any chance got a link? Cheers Phil
  8. Hi, I'm in the final stages of renovating the interior of my 72CP and replacing the vinyl door pull that is stuck on top of the door, but the new one do not seem to fit. I purchased 'Classic Gold' vinyl covered foam from Rimmer's (not cheap), when I came to offer them up to the door the profile of the new ones is different from the old. Rimmer's who said it is a known problem and have tried source others but failed, they are prepared to refund me in full, but said some who have purchased these have modified them to fit but do not know how. My question is is there any one on the forum who has purchased these and successfully shaped them to fit, without them coming unstuck? see photo, new on left Thank Phil
  9. Ian, your right it's bloody tight, I made it worse be using Dodo(sound deadening), underlay and then carpet, probably a bit OTT. It's easier if you unscrew and unbolt the centre switch panel first.
  10. Hi Ian, coincidentally, I have just completed the same thing in the process of refurbishing the whole cabin. I had the H Frame sand blasted and recovered it in a pre-moulded vinyl cover and fitted the MG triple gauge panel. As the panel had a wrinkle finish I sanded it and resprayed. I also fitted a twin switch plate underneath, and finished using black hex bolts. It gets a bit tight as you need to take into account the fitting bracket under the dash. if it helps here are a couple of snaps
  11. Hi Walt, thats just the info I need, I think i'll get one of those books Many Thanks Phil
  12. Hi, I've been renovating the cabin and about to put the new dashboard and renovated gauges in and I cannot remember or have photo of which way round the connections go to the Ammeter. I know the thick Brown cable from the Starter goes to one terminal and the 2 Brown/White (one thick, one thin) to the alternator and ignition to the other, but looking from the back I'm not sure which and wanted to get it right first time. Regards Phil
  13. Hi Roger, thanks for your thoughts on the 'knocking' , I have since read up on this and could well be the cause and this is not a DIY fix. Hi, Stand thanks for that, more evidence pointing to the axle
  14. Gents, Thanks for the great advice, and it looks exactly like item '61' on the Moss diagram! The previous owner documented all the work he did over the ten years he had it, no axle work (but I could ask him), I've never had to do any axle work, but surely if that shaft key is missing the axle the shaft would spin,? so it's more investigative work after I've finished the interior. I'm sure its purely coincidentally, but I get a knocking noise like a cracked spring from the off side rear in the last 3 months when it was on the road---- same side ....hmmm. A visual inspection then on ramps did't highlight anything was wrong, I think its time to get it on a 4 post lift and further investigation. Thanksl Phil
  15. HI, I’ve been renovating my interior and haven’t moved the car for months, today I had to push the car out and this piece of metal was laying on the floor under the RHS rear suspension and brake area. I’ve had the car a year not touched this area, I’ve looked at the online diagrams of these areas and do not recognise this. Does anyone with experience in this region recognise what and where this piece is metal comes from, it is well aged and rusty? Thanks Phil
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