Phil M

John, I came across this thread when I renewed my hubs springs etc earlier this year The correct ride height for the TR6 according to Triumph was 26.75" at the front and 27" at the rear to the underside of the wing at its highest point over the wheels, This of course assumes that you have kept the same rolling radius on your tyres as per the original 165HR x circa 80 aspect tyres. The gaps with original tyres when new would have been 2.25" at the front and 2.5" at the rear assuming 0.9" compression of the tyre. -----https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/35830-ride-height/----- Regards Phil

Hi Andy, Mark's right forgot to mention that, my Distributor had the vacuum advance, Martin disconnected that and blanked it off

Hi Andy, in a similar situation I could not get my 72 CP to run correctly and the id on the distributor did not match any of the numbers in the manual, I called Martin Jay ( Dist Doc) and he said, "it never will run correctly as its for a GT6 the weights are all wrong" ; obviously a PO had fitted the wrong distributor. Martin took my distributor refurbished it and set it up for a 72CP and re-stamped it a 22D6 Martin did an excellent job, money well spent Regards Phil

Gents,Thanks for the feedback, Graham, did you consider using the new lock and modifying the crash pad or was it a case the lock did not fit thanks

Hi, I have a 1972 CP TR6 and the ignition switch lock barrel has broken in two, I have purchased a new one from Rimmer's and to make sure I received the correct version I rang them up and ordered a replacement. However, when I compare the old and new they are different. I have not offered the new on to the steering column yet but looking at them I will need to modify the ignition crash pad to accommodate the new one and make a new clamp. I have trawled the forum and cannot find any reference to modifying the crash pad which leads me to thinking , 'have I got the right one', before I contact Rimmer's I thought I would seek your advice, have any of you come across this before and do I have the correct lock, see picture below Thanks Phil

This is the first real evidence I have seen that a particular suppler does not put ethanol in their high octane fuel, so I'l go to Esso in future, I've used Tesco Momentum until now. Have a read of this , this company Greenenergy, I've seen their tanks on the road, have 5% in both normal and high octane https://www.greenergy.com/uploads/LdcN6uEgdclc_Unleaded 95 Petrol_specification sheet_Feb18.pdf

That reminds me of a Jackie Mason joke "I asked my wife what she wanted for Christmas", she said "A Divorce", I said "I wasn't thinking of spending that much"....

Thanks Roger, Rich Ill try and re tap the hole first if that doesn't work I could be emailing you for a new tank

Hi, having just stoped two oil leaks ( sump & sealing block) then a fuel line, I now have a leak from the fuel sender gasket, over the last year I belived I had eliminated all fuel pongs, or so I thought..On the car's first outing this year I thought I would fill the tank, only to find there is a small leak from the sender gasket, I tried half a turn on the sender screw only to find it will not tighten nor will another, so the threads gone. Are these screws self tappers or bolted screws, and has any one experience this and a solution? Thanks Phil

Gents, Thanks for your advice, I have taken it on board and oerdered a complete fuel pipe set ( 3/16 copper) from TRGB, the guys there are always helpful and offer advice from the mechanics as well. Regards

Hi, My return fuel pipe from the metering unit to the tank has sprung a leak on the bend just as it comes out the MU. On my car the pipe is a single rubber pipe based pipe all the way to the tank which has an outside material braid. The replacements from Moss and Rimmer are in about six pieces and not all available, my question is can anyone tell me the internal diameter of the pipe, the length needed to run the length of the car, what spec it should be and a suggested supplier.? I have trawled the other threads and down a blank. Many thanks Phil

Thanks Waldi

Hi, I'm overhauling the rear suspension new springs(standard), bushes, brackets etc and need to lower the near-side a bit to match the off-side. When I removed the old springs the off-side had a 25mm steel spacer fitted, I assumed to compensate for a sagging off-side spring, however when I fitted the new springs with poly spacers top and bottom the ride height is correct on the off-side but too high on the near-side and noticable ( 25mm higher), which lead me to believe the original spacer was not for a saggy spring but something not quite right between the chassis and body.. To over come this I have ordered slightly lower (3/4") springs and intend to add a 0.625 inch ally spacer on the off-side, my question is, if I want to lower it even further is it essential there are poly spacers both top and bottom of the spring? Thanks Phil

HI Nick, I agree with the comments to go down the CDD route, I have just completed providing new 3/8ths studs. Alistair at CDD provides a complete jig set , taps, drill and studs. The first jig is used to drill the holes and a second jig to tap the holes, two taps are used a taper and a plug, the set comes with comprehensive instructions. I believe it would be impossible to get 6 studs drilled and tapped perpendicular to take the hub. Regards Phil

Interesting, thanks for your advise gents,