Phil M

Hi Walt, thats just the info I need, I think i'll get one of those books Many Thanks Phil

Hi, I've been renovating the cabin and about to put the new dashboard and renovated gauges in and I cannot remember or have photo of which way round the connections go to the Ammeter. I know the thick Brown cable from the Starter goes to one terminal and the 2 Brown/White (one thick, one thin) to the alternator and ignition to the other, but looking from the back I'm not sure which and wanted to get it right first time. Regards Phil

Hi Roger, thanks for your thoughts on the 'knocking' , I have since read up on this and could well be the cause and this is not a DIY fix. Hi, Stand thanks for that, more evidence pointing to the axle

Gents, Thanks for the great advice, and it looks exactly like item '61' on the Moss diagram! The previous owner documented all the work he did over the ten years he had it, no axle work (but I could ask him), I've never had to do any axle work, but surely if that shaft key is missing the axle the shaft would spin,? so it's more investigative work after I've finished the interior. I'm sure its purely coincidentally, but I get a knocking noise like a cracked spring from the off side rear in the last 3 months when it was on the road---- same side ....hmmm. A visual inspection then on ramps did't highlight anything was wrong, I think its time to get it on a 4 post lift and further investigation. Thanksl Phil

HI, I’ve been renovating my interior and haven’t moved the car for months, today I had to push the car out and this piece of metal was laying on the floor under the RHS rear suspension and brake area. I’ve had the car a year not touched this area, I’ve looked at the online diagrams of these areas and do not recognise this. Does anyone with experience in this region recognise what and where this piece is metal comes from, it is well aged and rusty? Thanks Phil

Hi Waldi I believe you have the workings of a electric oil pressure gauge, and it makes sense if you connect a Batt and Eth to the terminals it will shoot to full, personally I have not taken one apart so I could be wrong.

Hi Steve I calibrated mine using a simple Volt/Current generator so I can accurate set the required voltage, (now days they are relatively cheap I think mine was about £40),if the connections are clean and the winding ok and the correct resistance its just a case of a finite adjustment of the needle or if that does not work, as Ed mentions you can tweak the bi strip from the back. But I don't think thats not going to help you if your gauge is permanently low. Visual inspection may show the problem, for a start the winding heating the bimetallic strip should be 120ohms( nor sure how this differs from gauge to gauge) , as the gauges get old the winding can separate from the strip (but rare), more likely there is a bad connection on the winding to the terminals or the needle is bent or come loose from the bi strip. Best Regards Phil

Hi Waldi I believe Ed is right, your gauge is either faulty or probably not a volt meter, I have recently refurbished an old classic Smiths Volt gauge and tested it with a volt/current generator. The classic Smiths Volt meter (and probably the new ones) use a winding round a bimetallic strip as the volts increase he coil generates more heat and the needle moves slowly. I’ve taken a couple of photos to help Regard Phil

I tried to fit MX5 conversion brackets from TRTrader and found they cannot be mounted directly on the floor as the chassis mounting plates hinder this. Clive at TRTrader suggested most people mount them on the carpets using spacers or change the chassis mounting plate for body washers. Has any one who has used these brackets come across this problem, if so, what mounting solution did you use? Thanks Phil

Hi, I have two MX5 Mk2 leather seats I'm installing and purchased the conversation mounting brackets from TR Trader. Their instruction state to just remove the seat belt anchor, but this leaves a sizeable chunk of redundant metal which to my eye is unsightly. I'm thinking of cutting most of this off to make a more tidy and presentable job. My question is, has any one purchased Mk2 seats (MK5 1999-2003) and removed this unwanted metal without causing any problems to the seat runners? Regards Phil

Hi Paul, yes that's the cheaper one I sent back, see photo of the vinyl one below its much better quality, using a small amount of contact adhesive and a hot air gun on the underside and ends helps to get a perfect fit. As for the centre switch pad, I had the same problem as it was too thick, if yours is the same as mine you need to take a hobby/craft knife and cut some of the rubber away at the back, you will find there is a metal plate that runs the length of the switch pad with the holes cut for the correct switches, so you can cut down to the plate. Another problem I encountered and I know others have had the same is when the switch pad is in place there can be a gap one side lining up with the side pad, the answer is use a heat gun and clamps to try and reshape it to fit, but its still not perfect, the gap is smaller and on the the underside so not really seen. I have noticed since I screwed the pad in place it has bowed in the middle I may have over tightened it , or I may need to get the heat run out again. My switches are slightly different as I'm installing hazard lights Regards Phil

Hi Paul, I've just gone through the process of replacing the crash pads, here are two types of crash pads, a new (cheap) version from Rimmer's and Moss which is foam/rubber injection mould about £110, then there is the original process with a vinyl grained cover and a standard internal foam base , this cost about £160 from Moss and is made by Classic Gold Authentic Reproductions, and matching the original crash pad. Initially I order the cheaper version from Rimmer's and while the product was not damaged the quality does not match original, I sent this back and ordered the vinyl version from Moss, this is a very good quality dash pad and was easy to fit, it needed a little trimming of the vinyl in certain places. before and After photos Regards Phil

Martin at DD did mine in March, tested and printed an output graph, excellent job car runs well, now. If yours is a CP1972 PI it does not use the vacuum tube, Martin blanked mine off Rgds Phil

Hi, coincidental I only did this the other day as I'm refurbishing the cabin. I used a plumbing 'Y' piece from 'Wikes', I had to heat two ends and reduce the diameter as the warm air duct to the screen is a smaller diameter then the duct to the dash eyeball vent. On the drivers side I kept the cool air eyeball connected directly to the heater cool vent out and pointing directly at the foot well, it is not possible to do this on the passage side as the lack of space due to the poorly designed glove box. Regards Phil

Thanks Bruce I'll give them a call Regards