Neil T Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 Hi all, I am now totally stumped with this and hoping that someone out there may have the answer. So i tried to start my TR on returning from holiday a few weeks ago. The starter turned a few times (as it normally does) and then nothing, everything went dead. I now have no ignition light, no oil light, no headlights, no fuel pump, wipers etc etc.. nothing. The only things that appear to be working are hooters, main beam and interior lights ! Now the below are all the things I have tried / tested: new ignition switch. Battery in good condition - tested Battery connections all good. red / white wire from ignition switch to starter good. Brown wires (thick) from Ammeter to plastic connector on wing all good. All fuses are intact. Starter motor makes no noise, so I assume it is not jammed, but then this would not affect the dead ignition lights. Recent work on the car was the addition of a 65A Alternator, so I am wondering if the original 30-30 Ammeter has been damaged ? However if damaged, it was not instant, as I have used the car since this was added, but with the occasional engine cut out whilst driving (which i thought may be the new coil). Old coil was added back in and problem seemed to be resolved, but have not been able to drive it long enough to really confirm this, and of course now I have the dead car ! I have now actually sent the old Ammeter away for upgrading / restoring, this will be upgraded to 60-60. In the meantime i tried to bypass the Ammeter and connect the thick brown wires, but still the car is dead. Thank you all in advance ! Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 Well the horn and interior lights are powered via the same fuse which isn't switched by the ignition switch. Most everything else you have lost is switched so I suggest you start with that as a possibility. Do you have a voltmeter? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Neil T Posted August 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 HI RobH, Thanks for your message. Sorry, when you say 'switched' do you mean via Ignition switch ? I do have a multi-meter if that is what you mean, and have been using it to test the various wires. Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted August 27, 2018 Report Share Posted August 27, 2018 Yes possibly the ignition switch. If you measure at the fuse box with the ignition switched on, is there 12 v on the white wires? If not, work backwards to the switch. Is there 12v on the brown/white wires at the input to switch? If on brown/white but not on white, suspect the switch. If you haven't got one the wiring diagram is here: http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Tim D. Posted August 28, 2018 Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 Had a similar failure on my TR6.. ended up being the ignition switch. Relatively easy to replace.. On mine if I wiggled the switch from behind the steering column lock it would run when I turned the key, but would then randomly shut down. Cheers Tim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hawk Posted August 28, 2018 Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 Before trying to diagnose anything else, I'd recommend taking a battery from another car and just trying it. Batteries can read the appropriate voltage but not supply enough cranking power .... which would explain the symptoms you have. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TriumphV8 Posted August 28, 2018 Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 Very easy to find fault. Simply go down to the starter with the Voltmeter. Connect the black wire to ground, switch to 20V or next DC and connect red to plus battery. You should read about 12V. Next you connect red to the big wire at the starter. You should read the same. If not check connection of battery to ground and starter. Than a second person should start and you connect red to the little wire at the starter. It should read 12V. If 12V is there the starter, mainly the solenoid is faulty Give it a smash with the hammer while pulling the starter. If 12 V is gone you may connect a wire from plus battery to the little wire down at the starter. Take care, much current! Engine should turn now, If so the starting wiring is faulty. Mainly the rear body behind the starter key. Its a little electrical box that can be swapped completely. If that is the case we can continue with the hints. Does not make sense to write the whole procedures down for nothing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mike C Posted August 28, 2018 Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 Do the main beam lights dim when you turn the starter switch? If so it's probably the starter/engine earth. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fisicx Posted August 28, 2018 Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 Thats exactly what I had. The battery powered the horn but didnt have enough oomph to do anything else. I also had a knackered ignition switch but that just mean intermittent starting. Id start with the battery. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Neil T Posted August 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 Thanks to everyone for the comments and suggestions so far. I will attempt to start to work through these at the weekend in some logical order. I will let you know how it goes / what i find etc. Just a couple of points: If the battery was indeed faulty (even though it shows a good 12v when tested, plus using a hydrometer thingy) plsu starter faulty surely the ignition lights would at least be on ? By the way, the ignition switch has already been replaced over the weekend, so that doesn't appear to be the issue. Cheers Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mk2 Chopper Posted August 28, 2018 Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 Check you have 12v going to the ignition switch and then when you turn it to on the 12v is present at that connection also. I would think a duff battery should at least be able to light the ignition/oil lights before attempting to crank the engine. So my guess is the wiring to ignition switch. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted August 28, 2018 Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 We were told in the original post that the horns worked, so that rules out the battery I think. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
fisicx Posted August 28, 2018 Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 We were told in the original post that the horns worked, so that rules out the battery I think. Nope. I had a horn and the battery was charged and was reading 12V. But a number of cell were kaput so unable t deliver more than a trickle of current. The car started in the morning, I filled up with benz and then it wouldn't start. That's how quickly it happens. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DaveN Posted August 28, 2018 Report Share Posted August 28, 2018 I’d visit that ‘new’ ignition switch assembly, knowing what crap is out there now! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Neil T Posted November 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2018 Hello there, Just thought i would update this thread and also close it.... Well after many weeks (and weeks) of investigations, I finally found the issue down at the Starter Motor. It appeared to be corroded connections to the all the wires going into the Starter. I had looked there earlier, but had not fully removed (and cleaned) the contacts etc. Feel a bit stupid really, but hey I now have a spare ignition switch, a reconditioned updated Ammeter and a running car....having missed the best of the weather ! Thanks to you all though for your input and suggestions. Neil Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GordT Posted January 23, 2022 Report Share Posted January 23, 2022 Hi Neil T, mine is having the same issue so I will check your solution. I have a red 1976 Tr6 not nearly as nice as yours, I was wondering if yours has the Miata seats in it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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