johnwill Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 My good lady gets colder way quicker than anyone I have ever known, so when she asks for the heater to go on, it has to go on. The problem comes when I want to turn it off without her noticing. It's impossible as it means stopping, lifting the bonnet, and moving the valve to the closed position by hand. So, I decided to follow the advice on the forums here and buy an Everco heater valve. The general consensus was that it was a straightforward swap (once you had got one from the USA). But...it's not quite that straightforward, well, it wasn't for me anyway... The different size hose was expected, so no problem with that, but the threads on the Everco are 3/8 NPT, whereas the original is 3/8 BSPT. This means it does not screw in to the adaptor very far. 2 threads and it was done. I got hold of an adaptor for it, so it sits a bit more proud than it should, but it works fine, and reacts to the cable easily. Am I the only one that's suffered this? I did wonder if Everco make them with different threads, and I bought the wrong one...but the part number is exactly the same, so unlikely. Thanks to RogerH for your help with this. Picture attached showing the "linking adaptor" between the Original adaptor and the valve. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aardvark Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Mine fitted with no problems. No leaks either????. Thats done it! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cvtrian Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Mine fitted with no problems. No leaks either. Thats done it! so did mine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Hi Folks, it is odd that some fit with, apparently, no trouble and other don;t. The NPT thread is 18tpi and the BSP is 19tpi so there will be a slight fouling. Anybody got the answer Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 42 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 ...Ah..... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BrianC Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 What am I missing here? I have never had a problem turning off the heater from driving seat in any of our TR3As and TR4As. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cvtrian Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 What am I missing here? I have never had a problem turning off the heater from driving seat in any of our TR3As and TR4As. Hi Brian my 3A had the water valve under the bonnet, manually operated to adjust the flow of hot water through the matrix. My 4A had the valve diaphragm type water flow adjuster operated from a pull knob on the dash, but the valve didnt want to adjust that often, and it was usually very difficult to operate so was usually left closed. My TR6 had the same arrangement as the TR4 and 4A and the diaphragm in the valve had stuck open (used in winter) meanining you could not turn the heater off when needed - (the fan yes, but hot water continually flowed through the heater making the cabin footwells warm). I fitted the everco/four seasons valve, smooth and easy action, and it works a treat. I also think a similar valve was used on London Taxis, but needed a bracket fabricating to fit the TR Cheers Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 What am I missing here? I have never had a problem turning off the heater from driving seat in any of our TR3As and TR4As. Hi Brian, swap it for a new repro item and you will see the problem. Everything is so tight. My DIY plumber jobbie and the Everco are great Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spit_2.5PI Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 The Bowden cable outer coil expands/extends when you push the inner, with even a small amount of stiffness in the cable &/or valve. This would happen even on my old blue Spit back in 1988 when it was only 7 years old - no repro stuff then! These days I use bicycle brake cable with a blingy woven steel outer on top of the conventional Bowden outer coil (keeping the original solid inner of course). Both woven and Bowden outers are clamped at each end and this, along with the low-friction lining, means I can always turn the original heater valve on and off. Cheers, Richard PS: I've used it for the throttle too. Now the heater & throttle match the equally blingy injection hoses! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 Hi Folks, on the 4 & 4A the left & right knobs control things on the right and left hand side. This has been corrected on TR6 So my right knob controls the water valve and the left knob does the heater flap. The runs are virtually straight and work well. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 My knobs are the opposite of Roger’s. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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