Ralph Whitaker Posted June 25, 2018 Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 Anyone out there ever fitted new screen to the chrome frame. I`ve got this job to do and wonder how hard it is and are there any tips. I tried searching the site but it didn`t bring anything up. Ta, Ralph. Incidentally my stanchions seem to be a third type not listed in Moss etc. It is a 1961 3a and has the early type stanchions that you could slide on to a plinth bolted to the scuttle, but the plinths themselves are just drilled straight through and the whole lot bolts onto the scuttle with the same 2 through bolts. Was this Triumph using up the stocks of early types on the last of the 3a`s. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted June 25, 2018 Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 (edited) Ralph, I suspect the windscreen stanchion setup you describe was the result of a PO replacing the stanchions with the earlier version. That's why you have the tapped plate welded to the scuttle rather that dzus receptors (or whatever they are called!) Long long time ago, I replaced a windscreen glass, but I was able to get a factory seal (which is a rubber strip). Check out other threads on this Forum - seems that some repro seals are a bit thinner (and I think my windscreen was a bit thinner - very early triplex one). Basic technique is to fit the rubber strip around the glass and use a rubber hammer (or similar) to knock the frame (top first) onto the glass. Beware ANY protrusions from tenax pegs. What I decided to do, had I ever needed to fit another glass (which I haven't) was to insert hard rubber strips inside the frame to centralise the glass, prevent it from dropping over the years of use and protect against any protrusions into the frame. AlanR Edited June 25, 2018 by TR 2100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted June 25, 2018 Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 I superglued the ends of the seal together in a butt joint to create what was in effect a large rubber band. That enabled me to stretch it over the glass and it stayed in place while I slid it into the upper U frame. Slid is of course a massive simplification, the seal is quite thick and difficult to compress. Rgds Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted June 25, 2018 Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 Not my favorite job either, have yet to come up with the perfect way to do it. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Ian Vincent Posted June 25, 2018 Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 I have just searched out a couple of files I referred to when I did it. I think the original info came from Stuart Edwards. Rgds Ian Screen Assembly.pdf Replacing the Windscreen.pdf Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rodbr Posted June 25, 2018 Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 (edited) One important process often unsaid is that you must make sure that you have equal spacers in the channel two in sides and 3 or 4 across the top and bottom frame. These can be made from cut up rubber block about 1/4" thick glued into the channel. THIS PREVENTS HAVING TO DO THE WHOLE THING AGAIN WHEN YOU CRACK THE SCREEN FITTING THE STANTIONS SCREWS OR TENAX FASTENERS ( JOY! TWO SHOTS AT CRACKING THE SCREEN) Believe me, even he pros break screens. Pick a corner, any corner and this is your start and finish point. Pull tension on the sealing strip and use masking tape to hold it in position making sure it is equal both sides of the screen. Coat the top and sides of the rubber with KY Jelly (my lubricant of choice) washes off again after and does not damage the rubber. Once you have the main surround fitted and this should be a slow process fit new L brackets to the corners of bottom rail and enter them into the frame sides and ease them up till the surround is evenly placed along the lower rubber, coat with KY and slowly but surely ease the frame onto the rubber making sure the rubber stays equal. The object of the exercise is the end up with a seal not a tray the holds water An uneven seal not only looks bad and the hold strength of the rubber is reduced. A spanish windless works well to pull the screen together i.e a loop of twine and a wooden bar round the whole frame and twist the wooden bar which closes the gap under control and quick to release. Hold the corner together however picture framers clamp, said spanish windlass. B&D workmate to fit screws L bracket to frame side. Now, if you need to, comes the really tricky bit, Fitting top frame rubber and bottom seal. Lots of ways to do this some good and some bad but the essence is not to use a sharp tool like a screwdriver use a rounded tool to press into the frame channel. LEAVE spare on both sides and then leave the seals for at least a couple of days to relax before even thinking about cutting them, IF YOU DONT the seals will shrink and leave a gap at the edges. Fit stantions to the frame taking care to measure the screws and go gently when putting the final turn or this is where you crack the screen!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! To fit the lower corner retainer plates to lower frame into the stantion takes three hands and guess work. This must have a degree of tension or when fitted on the car looks like Nora Batty's stockings and does not stop the rain!!! Do not cut the top rubber till you have fitted the stantions use a bead of INDASA screen seal between stantion and frame. Carefully cut the rubber and use a craft knife to trim it til it sits inder pressure and forms a seal against the rounded stantion top. Little cuts not savage ones and the job not only looks well but keeps the rain out a bit. Sides screen cars leak like seives anyway. This is my way and others may wish to comment, not bothered either way! The key to a good finished result is to take your time and do not rush it, think each stage through before you do it, measure three times and cut it once!!!!. NB the screws supplied by vendors are too long as supplied as are tenax male fittings unless re-using (this is where it pays to treat them like push rods so they go back where they came from i.e same hole. Rod Edited June 25, 2018 by Rodbr Quote Link to post Share on other sites
T Rusty Posted June 29, 2018 Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 Ralph, I’ve done it by the book with a friend using the proper seal and after a long days work it all seemed to come together. The following morning there were stress cracks. That made me very unhappy. After buying a new windscreen I followed the advice of a local old car specialist and used a tube of black silicone rather than the seal. I put it together, alone, in a couple hours. If anyone noticed it’s not the original seal they haven’t mentioned it to me. Cover the windscreen and chrome carefully with masking tape and newspaper. Cleaning up the excess silicone is a messy job. Hope it works for you, I’d never do the original seal again. Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ptr2 Posted July 2, 2018 Report Share Posted July 2, 2018 +1 for the black silicone seal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Hamish Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 Just remembered cheftush did a video of this that may help. https://youtu.be/2jYZRdsrovk Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 Just watched the above video. Not sure about using vinyl tape instead of rubber. you would definately need to add sealant to stop water getting under the glass. Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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