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Spark plug Recommendations?


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As per the previous topic, my 1971 CP is not running very well, and I suspect it's only running on 5 cylinders?

I did the 'lay persons' test on the fuel lines and all of which seem to be 'pulsing' ( though some stronger than others) as they should be.

Car was running perfectly prior to standing for 3/4 weeks.

Am I correct in assuming this could be an electrical 'problem' rather than fuel?

I'm not sure how old the plugs are, but considering replacing them anyway.

I'm confused at the vast array of plugs available, and amazed at the price differential between them.

Could anyone recommend which type to buy, as I cannot decide?

Thanks in anticipation!

Peter

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Hi Peter

I use NGK Copper Core Spark Plug BP6ES and I've bought them from here http://www.gsparkplug.com/1x-ngk-copper-core-spark-plug-bp6es-7811.html

Some recommend using BP5ES in cylinders 5&6. I've bought these to give it a try.

 

NGK plugs don't like getting to wet.

Edited by Kevo_6
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Peter. NGK BP6ES for the plugs. Check your plug leads for resistance. One of my 9 months old ones went high resistance two weeks ago causing a hesitation. Change them if in doubt. Misfires due to ignition are more subtle than misfires due to injectors not squirting properly in my experience. Good luck. Dave

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Peter. NGK BP6ES for the plugs. Check your plug leads for resistance. One of my 9 months old ones went high resistance two weeks ago causing a hesitation. Change them if in doubt. Misfires due to ignition are more subtle than misfires due to injectors not squirting properly in my experience. Good luck. Dave

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Peter. NGK BP6ES for the plugs. Check your plug leads for resistance. One of my 9 months old ones went high resistance two weeks ago causing a hesitation. Change them if in doubt. Misfires due to ignition are more subtle than misfires due to injectors not squirting properly in my experience. Good luck. Dave

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NGKs I've always found reliable as clockwork on anything, although over the past 10 or so years I've regularly used the better of the Denso range (local motor factor's bargain buy!) in assorted applications . . . . . and found them unfailingly excellent.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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Dear Peter,

 

myself operating a 1972 CP and coming to your initial question if the car could be running on 5 cylinders only I just wanted to tell that a 5c operation is really quite easily noticeable and I am sure my British TR members will agree. Recently I forgot to replug the spark to c6 and I honestly thought the engine had gone dead, until I realized my fault, thought it was "kaputt" as we say here. No Power, vibrations without end, to my mind and it was really surprising it will become very, very quickly obvious if one of 6 cylinders doesn't want to work at all. ;-)

 

In Germany the favorite spark for the TR6 CP at the moment is the Bosch WR78 X Super with 4 electrodes. Experts over here say these fulfill the requirements in terms of reliability, heat distribution and engine behaviour of the CP engine the best.

 

From what I've learned also so far in our forums the sparks should be the last point of investigation if the engine does not run properly. Being still new to the TR scene (bought it in 2015) please consider my newbie status.

 

Best regards from TR Register Group Hanover, Germany

 

Timon

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Earlier this year I purchased a bundle of ignition terminals and heavyweight cable from Anthony Fitchett, first rate service - and thus far the various products have proved to be eminently satisfactory. Not to mention excellent value.

 

No problem on the dragster engine, which is something of a test.

 

Link to his ebay shop - http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Mr-Retro-Leads-Plugs?_trksid=p2047675.l2563

 

Usual disclaimers.

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

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Hi Peter

Firstly have you visually checked your spray pattern on the injectors? One at a time and a jam jar is very useful for this. I use NGK BP6Es plugs as well and have to say over the years, changed when needed, they have performed admirably. If, as you say you think its running on 5 cylinders I would be more likely to blame an injector which either needs bled or replaced.

Alan G

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I had this problem earlier this week. I expected a few minor injector problems following the replacement most of the fuel system hoses earlier. I has a misfire, backfiring and weak " pulse" in no. 1 injection line. I just removed the injection line and blew it clear with compressed air. No need to remove the injector from the throttle body. It works perfectly now.

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