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Sounds like your operating valve has dropped through. Didnt you remove it first?

Stuart.

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Hi Stuart,

oh dear, I didn't know about that.

I thought the cam on the shaft worked down onto the valve (so it wouldn't drop out) not up.

 

I'l take the cover off on Friday and have a look form within. And perhaps read the WSM.

 

Roger

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If you take the solenoid off and its associated mounting plate (Carefully as there is a large spring behind it) then you can see the valve and the section on the arm where it abuts on. With a bit of fiddling you should be able to get things back in their rightful place. Do be careful refitting the left side plate as the gasket is very minimal and you will end up with more of a leak!

Stuart.

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Hi Stuart,

I have had that plate off to fit the dodgy Moss seals and have found the spring :o

 

Looking in there will be fun as the box is insitu.

 

I'll give ORS a call to get the correct seals and the mills pin.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

Roger

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Roger

When I did the job I locked the lever in place with a dowel. Sounds as if you've lost the position of the operating valve relative to the cam. As far as I am aware the cam pushes the valve up. As you are getting a solid stop the valve must still be there and not have dropped through.

 

Following on from what Graham has said, I would lock the lever in place, then take the operating valve assembly out i.e. plug, washer, spring, ball bearing and see if the operating valve is 'in sight'. If it is take it out (slim magnet or tweezers. Rotate the lever anti-clockwise after slackening off the solenoid clamp bolts, and lock it in place with the hole in the overdrive case. Check the valve is OK not bent, re-assemble and see how the lever is via a clockwise rotation. If the valve has dropped through into the overdrive, not sure you can recover it without dismantling the overdrive.

 

Rob

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Roger, had something similar happen before and I took the operating valve plug out and was able to use one of those thin cheap extending magnet things down the hole to grab the top of the plunger and pull it carefully back up into place before moving the cross shaft back into place and dropping the push rod back onto the lever (you'll feel it make contact and when you rotate the shaft a little in will push the plunger up the hole)....

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Hi Folks,

many thanks to all of you for your help.

Last night in a hotel (for today's Cotswold Vale Colin Boother run out) I had some bedtime reading - a very old copy of the NdV Laycock OD manual - I know, very sad.

 

And it shows clearly what will happen. I wish I had read it the other day.

 

Fingers crossed that the valve is reachable.

 

Roger

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Hi Folks,

good news - I have got the operating valve all back together again.

 

My old OD manual says to simply fish the valve out with a bit of bent wire. This i did. It actually worked.

I then made a new 'mills' pin I had to calculate the angle of dangle. 0.625 long x 0.125" at the top and 0.116 down below. This works out to 5/6 degree (50 minutes)

 

This is when I found my 'cheap' Chinese lathe has a very cheap top slide angle scale. It took about six goes to find a reasonably close fit.

The scale is just over 2 degree's out - never use the top slide for parallel work.

 

Roger

 

 

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Hi Dave,

if I knew what I was doing it would have been easy peasy. Sadly the learning curve is a bit wiggly.

 

The good news is that I do not need any cat litter - my incontinent OD is nice and dry (for the moment)

 

Roger

 

PS - do you want to buy some cat litter.

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