storing engine

[len1]

i have now completed my bodywork on my TR6 and am moving on to the engine rebuild, My question is ....am i doing the right thing by building my engine first and then moving on to the chassis build up ? Is it ok to leave the engine unstarted for a few months , i will be applying cam lube but is there anything else to consider ?.....The few months could be longer realistically !

thanks

Len

[john.r.davies]

Cam lube is sticky stuff, should stay around for a while. If concerned, leave head off, and followers out. Before installing engine, drip lube onto cams and complete assembly of head, rockers etc.

 

Graphite grease, "Graphogen" on mains and big ends, small ends if you like will stick around for ages, and protect bearings during initial startup procedure.

Protect bare metal surfaces (eg Block and head, see above, but also bores) with WD40.

Wipe out bores with brake cleaner before head assembly? I don't, but may be worthwhile to promote bed in.

 

JOhn

[Motorsport Mickey]

Len,

 

Unless you have a reason for doing the engine first and then having to bother trying to avoid it deteriorating take the angst out of it, complete your engine rebuild after the bodyworks been done, after all it's the easiest part !

 

Mick Richards

[len1]

Thanks John and Mick.

Bodywork is complete Mick will only have to wait until chassis is built up before I can start engine

[john.r.davies]

Looking online for something else, I came across this slightly different view:

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2013/05/assembly-oils-greases-and-lubes/

 

Just FYI.

John

[Alec Pringle]

No it's not sensible to leave a newly built engine lying idle for several months - far from it !

 

Build up the chassis first, only then tackle the engine - it wants to be up and running within a month of rebuild completion.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

[len1]

Thanks John, Mick and Alec

i will leave the engine in bits and assemble after chassis build up, thanks for good advice

Len

[Richard71]

No it's not sensible to leave a newly built engine lying idle for several months - far from it !

 

Build up the chassis first, only then tackle the engine - it wants to be up and running within a month of rebuild completion.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

 

 

Why not Alec?

 

If an engine has been carefully built using decent assembly lubes and it's turned over by hand regularly, I can't see an issue.

 

Regards,

Richard.

[Alec Pringle]

Hi Richard,

 

the lubricant will remain in place and in condition for a limited time . . . . . and turning the engine over merely aids gravity.

 

A commercial engine builder will normally only offer a guarantee if the rebuilt engine is started and run-in within a specified time.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

[RogerH]

Hi Folks,

another problem with any big lump is how much can you do and not do with it out of the car.

Somethings need torquing down or even fitting at the last minute.

If the lump is laying around to long things get forgotten.

 

Could you imagine replacing all the seals etc in a diff. Tightening/torquing the big pinion nut is difficult with the diff on the floor.

So you put it aside and do the torquing in three years time. Having torqued it you put the split pin in the nut - Bobs your uncle.

 

The only problem is you forget to do all this and simply fit the diff.

One day the pinion nut falls off and things go wrong.

 

Now don;t get me wrong; this would never happen to me, never.

But it could happen

 

Roger

[Richard71]

Hi Richard,

 

the lubricant will remain in place and in condition for a limited time . . . . . and turning the engine over merely aids gravity.

 

A commercial engine builder will normally only offer a guarantee if the rebuilt engine is started and run-in within a specified time.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

 

Sorry Alec,

 

I have to disagree, I always assemble an engine with Graphogen, it'll stick to bearings & journals etc for donkey's, just try washing it of your hands and you'll see what I mean.

 

Regards,

Richard.

[Guest ntc]

To be fare to both party's it is a question of time.

[acaie]

No it's not sensible to leave a newly built engine lying idle for several months - far from it !

 

Build up the chassis first, only then tackle the engine - it wants to be up and running within a month of rebuild completion.

 

Cheers

 

Alec

+1

 

If you put the chassis and bodywork aside for a month or so after rebuilding it, it will not deteriorate. If you put the engine aside for two or three months it is likely to do so. Engines need to be run, not left sitting idle. Protective measures may work, but aren't as good as regular running.

 

Best wishes

Al

[john.r.davies]

I think we can all agree with that!

 

But, say, you're waiting for a shop to finish the car, while your engine sits on the garage floor, unfettled.

It's an awful temptation to get that done and then wait for the car to be ready!

John

[Alec Pringle]

Len is talking of leaving the rebuilt engine for a few months, which could be longer realistically . . . . . . by his own estimation.

 

That is quite long enough, by my reckoning, for gravity to deal with some of the lubricant, for possible deterioration of the lubricant, and corrosion to start on unsealed surfaces.

 

I've seen what happens when 'pre-lube' ages and blocks an oilway once the engine is finally started . . . . no fun, and costly.

 

Hence my preference for a pessimistic response - and suggestion not to leave a rebuilt engine lying around for months, or longer.

 

If your experience suggest otherwise, no problem , we can cheerfully agree to disagree !

 

Cheers,

 

Alec

[Andy Moltu]

Unless it is going to be years all you really need to do is to tape up the inlet/exhaust ports to keep debris and condensation out and the same with the breathers/water pipes.

 

If it's just been assembled with assembly lube on the journals and oil on the bores it should be adequately protected against corrosion caused by the limited damp getting in.

 

Before you start it for the first time fill with fresh oil, remove the oil PRV squirt oil in there to prime the oil pump and a squirt of oil in the plug holes prior to turning over.