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Slippery Slope into the unknown!


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Hi Folks,

today I bought a litre of Penrite EP 80/90 hypoid gear oil.

I topped up the diff :) and then read the label - it states that it is a GL5 oil :o

 

Hmmm I thought. Shouldn't GL5 be avoided in the H|ypoided.

 

I then read the label on the previous litre bottle (EP 85/140 or something like that) that is also a GL5) :o:o

 

Now that oil has been in there for many years and the wheels haven't dropped off yet. :)

 

Isn't it funny how buses come in three's

 

Late last week I received some info from my sleuth (Bruce) from the techy guys at Miller oils.

They state that there is a lot of misinformation out there (that is here) regarding GL5 and its additives (I shan't use their adjectives - very ripe indeed)

Very basically for a very long time (before the Dinosaurs) all the nasty additives have been calmed down and there is no longer an issue.

My very short and not controlled test would support what the man says (I hope he is right).

 

So is the expert, professional tribologist talking out of his lower ring piece.

Or (as I hope) he is the second cousin to the oracle at Delphi and speaks with straight tongue and just a touch of radon gas)

 

Roger

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Bloody hell, i thought i understood : gl4 good, gl5 bad!

 

Lord only knows what i should be putting in my Quaiffe LSD......

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Bloody hell, i thought i understood : gl4 good, gl5 bad!

 

Lord only knows what i should be putting in my Quaiffe LSD......

Proper LSD oil or it will screech and clonk!

Stuart.

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Precising what I heard the Millers chap say at Lincioln, not all GL5 is bad for yellow metal. Theirs is OK for example but how are we expected to know about the rest?

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Just going through the Miller products and I found this -

 

NON-DETERGENT MONOGRADE OILS

GREEN GEAR OIL 90 & GREEN GEAR OIL 140 are GL1 type monograde mineral gear oils for veteran and vintage gearboxes and transmissions. Containing anti-wear and anti-corrosion additives, but excludes the extreme pressure (EP) additives which can harm yellow metals.

CLASSIC GEAR OIL EP 80w90 & CLASSIC GEAR OIL EP 140: GL4 type mineral gear oils containing extreme pressure (EP) additives for bevel and lightly loaded hypoid gears for classic transmissions & axles requiring GL4 performance. Both gear oils are suitable for brass & bronze gearbox components due to their non-staining capability.

DIFFERENTIAL OIL EP 90 & CLASSIC DIFFERENTIAL OIL 85w140: GL5 type mineral gear oils for highly loaded classic vehicles with hypoid transmissions. Both gear oils are suitable for brass & bronze gearbox components due to their non-staining capability.These oils contains additives that reduces wear and prevent oxidation and rusting of engines and gearboxes.

In one line they say EP oils can do harm and in the last line they say it is all hunky dory - so what is the truth

Still confused.

Roger

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Thanks Stuart and Ian.

 

I was under the impression that the quaiffe lsd was gear type and did not need special lsd oil?

 

Its full of normal 90ep at the moment, doesnt screech but does make the odd grumble....

 

Should i change out the oil for limslip then?

 

Steve

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Thanks Stuart and Ian.

 

I was under the impression that the quaiffe lsd was gear type and did not need special lsd oil?

 

Its full of normal 90ep at the moment, doesnt screech but does make the odd grumble....

 

Should i change out the oil for limslip then?

 

Steve

Dedicated LSD oil is much better for them, I would change it as soon as you can.

Stuart.

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Hi Steve,

not sure if there is a dedicated LSD oil but here is an additive

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=4&=&id_products=62

 

Roger

Yes there are dedicated LSD oils but they can be hard to find. In the days when I had a Merc with an LSD Halfords didn't carry them I had to go to a local specialist supplier.

 

RgdsIan

Edited by Ian Vincent
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Thanks Stuart

 

Im pretty sure ive seen reference to B373 somewhere in the vast file of stuff i have for the car, goes back to 1978!

 

I'll get some ordered, think i need more than 1l if i recall?

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Well that was harder than i expected !

 

My diff has a drain so getting the oil out was easy enough...... But what a pig to fill!

 

Previously i changed the oil in the diff when it was out of the car......this time no such luck

 

First i tried to pump the oil in with a spare windscreen washer pump, flow rate too slow.

 

Then i removed the exhaust and with a 6" extension on the 1l squeezy bottle was able to get about half a litre in.

 

Refill bottle, antother half a litre, refil again and its full!

 

Exhaust back on.

 

Not the half hour job id hoped but its done and the lsd is luxuriating in frest B373.

 

Steve

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