ianfraser Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Does anyone have experience of rear hub/stub axle failure and removal/replacement of the hub assembly? Also taking apart the outer UJ and whether to replace it at the same time as the hub. Thanks, Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 yep, been there. From memory, undid the UJ flange at the diff first, remove wheel, brake drum, undo the nyloc nuts holding the hub to the trailing arm, then slide the whole lot out. Its not a difficult job but an extra pair of hands is quite useful and the hub and drive shaft are quite heavy and need a bit of fiddling to get out cleanly. I'd replace the UJ's when its all out as they arent expensive and as youve removed the drive shaft etc youve done most of the ahrd work. When replacing everything in reverse but be careful that you do the hub up to the correct torque very carefully as they are easy to strip thread.....not sure of the correct torque but it will be in the Brown book , BTW noticed this on ebay (in case you need a hub and its from TRBitz who are a reputable supplier http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-TR6-rear-wheel-hub-/322181222318? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Hi Ian, when you withdraw the hub through the trailing arm be sure to remove the handbrake cable nut/spigot to give clearance. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianfraser Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Thanks Roger and Robin, noted about the handbrake cable nut. I see on Rimmer's site there are 2 different UJs, circlip type and staked type, which type will the outer UJ be? Any imput as to the pros and cons of replacing the hub assembly with new or recon unit? Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Hi Ian, I don't know the Rimmer products well. Get the best UJ they have - circlip is the norm. Recon hubs will probably have the original stub axle still insitu - these are 50 years old (almost). I would go for new. Expensive - yes, but compared to the rebuilt item must be a better choice. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ianfraser Posted July 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 Thanks Roger, that's the way I'm thinking too, an extra £100 for peace of mind is a good investment. Ian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted July 5, 2016 Report Share Posted July 5, 2016 (edited) I should try the search facility there's pages on hub removal and splitting and which are the alternatives that you may want to consider. If the TR search won't show up Hub (3 letters are sometimes too small to register) check it in Google and you should come up with the pages. As regards new or used hubs bear in mind what normally has to be done with a hub to strip it down to replace bearings etc - 20 ton press or lots of pressure through hub removers and that maybe the stresses don't leave the hubs in as pristine a condition as you'd like. This photo is of a reconditioned Stag hub, (same equipment but normally an easier life than a TR) it was the second hub failure out of the pair for the owner, the other one failing a thousand or so miles earlier. There can be no control over how aggressive some reconditioners can be when splitting the hub, I'd prefer new every time, original or from one of the hub suppliers. Mick Richards Edited July 5, 2016 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Andy Moltu Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 The reality the original hub design was fine, they are not inherently under specified or weak. What leads to breakage are the forces used to split the hubs when replacing the bearing which exceed the capacity of the stub axle and critically weaken it, effectively initiating a stress fracture which lets go a few thousand miles later! Speaking to EJ Ward - the Stag specialists - they stopped sending hubs away for reconditioning because of this. They do their own splitting because there is a knack to it rather than just cranking up the press tonnage. I think if and when my bearings need replacing I will go with a new hub as the consequences of failure are not good! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 TR Shop are doing new Bastuck rear hubs as outright sale. Much safer option, dont forget the torque, hub to trailing arm is only 16lbs. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRseks Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 (edited) I was looking at replacing my hubs as it's play in both sides, specially the right side. Looking at prices the re-conditioned one's seem to be at about £160-180 for complete unit including shafts/u-joints, new ones more, some a lot more. Since I got a 105bhp us Tr6 I think the original will be fine but after reading this I have ruled out re-conditioned but an original spec should be fine as long as it's new. So what is a reasonable price for a new hub including the shaft with circlip u-joints? Will call around tomorrow but would be nice to know if it's any good deal anywhere, Rimmers got 15% until 17.july so might get it from there unless there are better deals. Magnus Edited July 6, 2016 by TRseks Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Litespud Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 Don't know how much reconditioned hubs are in the UK, but in the US the price was sufficiently close to a new pair of Good Parts hubs that for me it was an easy decision - 40 year old parts are still 40 years old, regardless of how well they're reassembled. While you're in there...... (famous last words!), you might consider tapping the TA stud holes for Keenserts or helicoils - the original fine threading in the soft Al makes for a pretty finicky installation process. When I pulled my TAs apart, 2 of the holes were stripped. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Dave McDonald Posted July 7, 2016 Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 ..... While you're in there...... (famous last words!), you might consider tapping the TA stud holes for Keenserts or helicoils - the original fine threading in the soft Al makes for a pretty finicky installation process. When I pulled my TAs apart, 2 of the holes were stripped. In full agreement. I've installed 5/16" UNC helicoils in my trailing arms to replace the original 5/16" UNF threads after finding one of them to be stripped. Dave McD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted July 7, 2016 Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 TR Shop are doing brand new hubs at £215 thats the bit you need to replace, shafts themselves if they are worn get from Proptech in Kidderminster they are nice and uprated with Rislan coated splines to stop spline lock.That combination should be good enough for the most enthusiastic road driving. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TRseks Posted July 7, 2016 Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 TR Shop are doing brand new hubs at £215 thats the bit you need to replace, shafts themselves if they are worn get from Proptech in Kidderminster they are nice and uprated with Rislan coated splines to stop spline lock.That combination should be good enough for the most enthusiastic road driving. Stuart. That sounds good, thanks Stuart. Magnus Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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