Richard Young Posted May 30, 2016 Report Share Posted May 30, 2016 http://www.tr-register.co.uk/rebuilders-diary/2016/03/0058/TR6-Full-rebuild 23rd MayWhile the bits are away at Envirostrip I decided to turn my attention to the engine.I removed the gearbox and put engine on engine stand.I was concerned about the weight by using the threads in the block so I enlarged 3 of the holes in the plate and one of the starter holes which was large enough,I attached the block using sturdy bolts and nuts (see pic) having removed the head first to reduce the weight.I removed rear oil seal and housing first.I will replace the oil seal and ali casting with the engine on the bench.After I took the head off I was able to see the condition of the bores which to me looked quite good with no stepping (See pic).The pistons have an 'A' stamped on their tops so I assume it is an original engine and never been bored out.I say that because there is some mystery about the engine as the number does not match the factory record.So it has been replaced at some time with another original unbored engine.Will always welcome comments from tech members regarding method of going forward,bearing in mind In the next few days I will strip the engine completely and check the crank wear and try to get some idea whether to go for a full rebuild or maybe just re ring it.I dont want to go to the added expense of a full engine rebuild if in fact it has only done a small mileage. Pics on link above Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SeanF Posted May 30, 2016 Report Share Posted May 30, 2016 Keep up the good work Richard. Looking good. I cant advise on the engine I'm afraid. Haven't got to that part yet myself. Sean Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Young Posted May 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2016 Thanks for encouragement Sean, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
openroad Posted May 31, 2016 Report Share Posted May 31, 2016 Hi Richard, the fact that you know how to put it on here with pics etc impresses me ! When you get it back from envirostrip,then you will know what is what,hopefully be inspired to push on with the rest of the rebuild. Cheers, Conrad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Young Posted May 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2016 Hi Conrad, Beginning to realise what I've taken on here,enjoying the 'ride' so far.Thanks for nice words....not sure what you mean re putting pics on..have you had issues in that department? Regards Richard. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Young Posted June 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Just realised I can't lift the crank out with the backplate on (it fouls on the plate),so will need to lift the engine on the hoist to take the weight,unscrew it from the stand,take the crank out and then bolt it back on to the stand..aaaaaaghh! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Bourne Posted June 2, 2016 Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 Just realised I can't lift the crank out with the backplate on (it fouls on the plate),so will need to lift the engine on the hoist to take the weight,unscrew it from the stand,take the crank out and then bolt it back on to the stand..aaaaaaghh! This maybe a bit late, and this is just a suggestion. I bought 2 engine stands with vertical uprights (not the angled type) and joined them together so that you can turn the engine upside down and get to both ends by bolting the plates to the engine sides. Where the engine mount brackets fit. I had to drill 2 extra holes on the face plates to make it fit, but it was pretty straight forward. I bought the stands off ebay for about £40 each. You can see the the stand on my blog - scroll down to Dec-Feb. Here's the link. I hope that helps. Best Bill http://www.tr-register.co.uk/rebuilders-diary/2016/02/0055/TR5-Patience-Rebuild Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted June 2, 2016 Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 Bill, Your solution is absolutely good. I have the angled type engine stands, would the side mounting on the block also work with only one stand, or would this damage the block? The stand is rated for the weight / load of the block. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted June 2, 2016 Report Share Posted June 2, 2016 I have recently bought a TR6 and its in similar condition to yours, so watching with interest at your efforts. I used Ribble Technology to strip my last shell, but perhaps its time for another firm so I have asked for a quote from Tamworth. Grand job so far Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Bourne Posted June 3, 2016 Report Share Posted June 3, 2016 Bill, Your solution is absolutely good. I have the angled type engine stands, would the side mounting on the block also work with only one stand, or would this damage the block? The stand is rated for the weight / load of the block. Hi Richard mmmm. I thought of doing that, but I chickened out, as I thought the depth of the holes for the bolts into the block were just a bit too short for one side mounting. So I went for the double mounting. I thought better to be belt and braces so that I wouldn't worry. I just didn't want to contemplate a cracked block for the sake of mounting it both sides. In theory it should be OK. Others might have a different opinion. best Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waldi Posted June 4, 2016 Report Share Posted June 4, 2016 Bill, Thanks, i will also have a look, first want to complete my welding, almost done with that:) Regards from the Netherlands, Waldi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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