ptjs1 Posted May 30, 2016 Report Share Posted May 30, 2016 I think I've finally come to the realisation that it will be best to remove my (long) restored body from the chassis (again) in order to fit out the brake and fuel lines and install the engine and box (once they are rebuilt). I'll start a separate thread in a few weeks about lifting the body. My preference would be to leave all the panels in place but I'm thinking that I might have to remove the bonnet. I know that the book method is to remove the bolts that attach the bonnet to the hinges. But I'm looking at the car and assuming it could be easier to remove the bonnet and maintain its alignment when refitting if I remove the bonnet and hinges intact by just undoing the bonnet hinges from the wing valances. I know at least one owner who's done it this way and I'm wondering if there are any downsides to this approach? Any thoughts gratefully received. Tks Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Douglas Winn Posted May 30, 2016 Report Share Posted May 30, 2016 The biggest downside in removing the bonnet is :-you need help either mechanical or human. Normally you wil have to adjust it afterwards, so why worry. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobinTR6 Posted May 30, 2016 Report Share Posted May 30, 2016 Been here recently, I did as book suggested. When refitting the plates in the bonnet that the bolts go thru give some adjustment. So, grill off, rest the bonnet in place9yes youll be needing a helper) , lock down at the bulkhead as normal and then fiddle with fitting at the fron end (bolts in but not tight) until fit is acceptable, then do up bonnet bolts at hinges. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
barkerwilliams Posted May 30, 2016 Report Share Posted May 30, 2016 If you remove the bonnet, first off and last on should be the bonnet catch. Do not refit the catch until bonnet is really, really well aligned and your are 120% sure the catch will release when you pull the handle. (It's so sad to see a grown man cry) Alan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stevecross Posted May 30, 2016 Report Share Posted May 30, 2016 Paul As you mention trying to maintain the bonnet alignment I assume your restored body has been fitted to the chassis and all gaps are correct. I fail to see why you feel it necessary to remove the body just to fit the engine,box. brake & fuel lines. With the bonnet removed it takes a few minutes to drop the engine onto it's mounts. The box then slots in from inside the car. With a hoist and a friend helping both could be fitted and bolted up in an hour or two. It may seem easier to run the lines with the body off but it is not a particularly long job working underneath. Seems an awful lot of work to save an hour or so's work on the brake & fuel lines with lots of risk of chipping new paint and having to re adjust gaps after disturbing everything. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Douglas Winn Posted May 30, 2016 Report Share Posted May 30, 2016 WARNING Don't tell your helper to screw the hinge bolts in. Do that bit yourself. Then you can make sure that the 2 short screws point upwards toward to upper surface of the bonnet. If you don't you will have 2 lovely nipples on the bonnet surface. through using the wrong long bolts. Does it sound familiar to anybody? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jean Posted May 30, 2016 Report Share Posted May 30, 2016 In the TR garage I use to attend they carefully mark the hinges against the inner wing. This will put the hinges in exacty it's previous position. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ptjs1 Posted May 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2016 Thank you to everyone for your thoughts. Steve, I'm going to start another thread on body removal or not. What I'm still not sure is whether there is any downside to removing the bonnet and hinges from the inner wing valances rather than using the book method and removing the bonnet from the hinges? As most of the adjustment is achieved through the hinge to bonnet plates, i don't understand why the preferred option is not just to remove the hinges and bonnet intact? Jean has talked about his garage doing it this way as well. I appreciate that it's not possible with the grille etc in place but I have a bare bodyshell so it seems easier for a number of reasons. It's less bolts to remove and paint to mess up; the bonnet is more likely to go back in it's original position; it seems more easy to lift it away when it's almost horizontal; and you should be able to just leave the bonnet lock alone. So, is it a better way of doing it or am I missing something? Paul Quote Link to post Share on other sites
boxofbits Posted May 30, 2016 Report Share Posted May 30, 2016 WARNING Don't tell your helper to screw the hinge bolts in. Do that bit yourself. Then you can make sure that the 2 short screws point upwards toward to upper surface of the bonnet. If you don't you will have 2 lovely nipples on the bonnet surface. through using the wrong long bolts. Does it sound familiar to anybody? Hi Pete Very familiar! I made the same mistake on my beautifully painted bonnet. Worth pointing out. Not an easy or cheap repair either! Kevin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Sapphire72 Posted May 30, 2016 Report Share Posted May 30, 2016 (edited) Did this recently. Yes, to remove the bonnet you can remove the hinge bolts from the headlamp housing shell(s) without removing the bonnet bolts. Grille must be removed for tool & arm/hand access through the grille aperture. Bonnet closed. The hinge adjustment bolts are for vertical movement in placing the bonnet. The bonnet bolts are for centering the bonnet between either side, & front to rear, once the correct vertical height is established with hinge bolts. So, in replacing, first the hinge bolts for vertical height (tighten them, but most certainly do not over-tighten so that the bolt shears off~!), then fine-tune/center the bonnet with slightly loosened bonnet bolts. Tighten bonnet bolts when you are satisfied with bonnets position. Mark the position of the bonnet catch on the bonnet underside with chalk, or paint, or such, then remove it entirely (just two bolts). You do not want the catch in the way when centering the bonnet. Loosen both rubber bonnet domes from their nuts, just enough so they have free horizontal play. The adjustable rubber domes determine the resting height of the rear of the bonnet . The bonnet catch is the last piece you will adjust. What I did was to have a light under the bonnet (a trouble light on electric cord run through the grille aperture) as it was almost closed, and eyed the position of the catch from standing by the right-side wing, You can play around with grease or chalk markings to see where the catch 'metal dome' will touch down- it takes some trial & error to get it perfectly aligned. Spray with lube or oil the catch components at this time. Edited May 30, 2016 by Sapphire72 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Peter Douglas Winn Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Warning. There is nothing you can do, that I have not done incorrectly. That's the way you learn. As my teacher told us at school, those who do nothing, never make mistakes and always know better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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