Mark1965TR4aBRG Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Folks Anyone know if 3/8 UNC to 3/8 UNF Studs are readily available. Trying to get my manifolds all assembled and can find 3/8 UNF K nuts so need to adapt from cylinder head to K nut.. Thx Mark Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kob666e Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Pretty sure the Jensen has unf to unc. If there are no other suggestions I'll have a look tomorrow. Or you could try these lads: http://www.motalia.net/index.php?cPath=1_263_461 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 http://www.namrick.co.uk/acatalog/Home_Manifold_Studs_42.html Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark1965TR4aBRG Posted February 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 (edited) What a find - the power of the forum. Thank you both very much!! Edited February 5, 2016 by Mark1965TR4aBRG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark1965TR4aBRG Posted February 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Ok to put stainless suds in the head? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
iain Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Why stainless? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 If you use stainless, put plenty of antiseize compound on them first. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark1965TR4aBRG Posted February 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Why stainless? Only because some are stainless but I'd be mindful of all the different heat expansions etc. Copslip would be my choice too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RobH Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 The issue isn't differential expansion, its that stainless nuts on stainless studs can cold-weld together. Are the K nuts stainless? Why use them instead of brass? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark1965TR4aBRG Posted February 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 The issue isn't differential expansion, its that stainless nuts on stainless studs can cold-weld together. Are the K nuts stainless? Why use them instead of brass? Space with the weber manifolds. I'm not using SS nuts. K nuts are high carbon steel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AlanT Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Don't assume that stainless steel is unable to rust. All that happens is that a surface coat develops that protects it. This may not work in the environment of a manifold. To stand a chance you will need to select a suitable grade. There are lots of course. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RogerH Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 Hi Mark, have a look in the back of the Moss cat - all combinations to help you. Roger Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TR 2100 Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 (edited) Mark, Yes, available space with weber manifolds is limited to say the least. I had some new canon manifolds, and by the time the manifolds had been ground out to allow space for the nuts - the manifold was perforated. Period manifolds seem to allow a bit more space, but where do you find them? I did - but it took a long time searching and eventually I got lucky. You also need to grind down a quality ring spanner to make a special that will just slip on. It will also help to shorten the studs slightly. AlanR Edited February 5, 2016 by TR 2100 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 6, 2016 Report Share Posted February 6, 2016 (edited) Use brass nuts on the manifolds with some copperslip and decent spring washers, standard steel studs are fine , I had to grind down the flanges on my TT manifolds to match the SAH type 4 branch and it all fits fine and has been for some considerable time. More important for Weber/Dellorto fitting is the "Rock" setting of the carbs to prevent frothing. Stuart. Edited February 6, 2016 by stuart Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark1965TR4aBRG Posted February 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 TRGB to the rescue with the UNC to UNF studs - I particularly wanted to use the K nuts - probably easier to get a spanner on them. I've fettled both the Phoenix and inlet manifolds (mine is a Bastuck from Mass) to clear each other. Can you elaborate on the "rock setting" please Stuart. I have the anti vibration washers and the misab spacer plates and need to thread lock the UNF grub screws in to the Bastucks to then mount the Webers. I need to modify the clamps now as I've 1mm difference in the flange thicknesses - I love all this fiddling - who'd have a modern car where it just bolts on!!! As for the linkage and air box - one thing at a time.. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted February 7, 2016 Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 When you say "Anti-vibration washers" what type have you got? Inlet manifolds should have standard studs in then 5/16" UNC/UNF Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark1965TR4aBRG Posted February 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2016 I need to put grub screws in mine and they are threaded 5/16 UNF. No studs unfortunately but the end result will be much the same. Washers are the three piece hobbies - 2 metal cup washers and a compression rubber part in the middle - they've probably got a proper name I guess. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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