Jim Allen Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 The rebuilt engine is sitting on the chassis. Radiator, carbies, alternator, the lot. I have connected the oil pressure and temperature gauges. I have connected the new hi torque starter to the original starter solenoid and the solenoid to the battery and earthed the battery to the chassis. (As I am using an alternator I have changed to negative earth). I have turned it over on the battery without plugs fitted and have oil pressure. It should be now ready to run. I'd like to do this in order to test for oil leaks while it's easy to work on the engine. Hopefully none but I've got my very nervous fingers crossed. Can I just connect the positive lead from the coil directly to the battery positive terminal? Do I need to connect the alternator in any way before starting the engine or will it run for the short time needed on just the battery. If I don't connect the alternator will it be damaged if not wired up? If I need to wire it up how should I do this? All advice welcome. Thanks in advance Jim. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ctc77965o Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 To answer your questions: Coil+ to Battery+ Alternator is OK disconnected, but you do need it spinning to tension the belt for the water pump... It will run fine on a charged battery for hours If this is first start on a rebuilt engine then get it up to 2500RPM and hold it there for 20 mins, certainly don't let it idle in these first mins or go thru multiple short runs....if you are not ready to run it for 20 mins then best not start it at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 (edited) I wouldn't run the engine with the alternator disconnected. Alternator wiring varies but you should replicate the car's wiring diagram. Essentially, connect a heavy jump lead from the large terminal to the battery and connect battery positive via a bulb to the small terminal on the alternator. Edited January 25, 2016 by peejay4A Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Lebro Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 To answer your questions: Coil+ to Battery+ Alternator is OK disconnected, but you do need it spinning to tension the belt for the water pump... It will run fine on a charged battery for hours If this is first start on a rebuilt engine then get it up to 2500RPM and hold it there for 20 mins, certainly don't let it idle in these first mins or go thru multiple short runs....if you are not ready to run it for 20 mins then best not start it at all. +1 Alternator will be fine Bob. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
peejay4A Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 Interesting. By a vote of 2:1 I'm wrong. But I still wouldn't chance it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 To answer your questions: Coil+ to Battery+ Alternator is OK disconnected, but you do need it spinning to tension the belt for the water pump... It will run fine on a charged battery for hours If this is first start on a rebuilt engine then get it up to 2500RPM and hold it there for 20 mins, certainly don't let it idle in these first mins or go thru multiple short runs....if you are not ready to run it for 20 mins then best not start it at all. Jim, You've not asked yet but the reason the revs need to be held over 2000 revs is to help prevent the camshaft putting excess pressure upon the cam followers and "galling" or damaging the cam follower surface, if it does it can dramatically shorten camshaft life. After a cursory check for leaks I used to take the car straight out on the roads and complete the 20 min running there ( if held at traffic lights hold the revs up to 2000) with an emergency toolkit with me just in case. Also ensure the running in oil has sufficient ZDDP content which will help protect the high pressure surfaces ie the cam followers. Mick Richards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
graeme Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 Jim, I have run engines with the alternator disconnected with no ill effects. I would also suggest that you have a kill switch in the coil feed or a way of disconnecting easily as this is the way to stop the engine in the event of a a problem occurring. +1 on the 20 minutes running at above idle. Cheers Graeme Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Allen Posted January 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 Thanks everybody. Yes I had read about the no idle and running in. I'll need to connect the tachometer somehow. H'mm. I'm using Penrite running in oil so I presume OK Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pfenlon Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 Without being picky, I cannot Imagine ST running each engine for such a time, and some of the original engines went a long way before needing attention. Unless modern parts just aren't up to muster. I haven't done this ritual on any of my engines, and without any problems, sometimes I think petrol engines are getting mixed up with complex supersonic fairy cakes. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stillp Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 I wouldn't run the engine with the alternator disconnected. I agree. Not good for the diode pack. Pete Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Motorsport Mickey Posted January 25, 2016 Report Share Posted January 25, 2016 (edited) "I cannot Imagine ST running each engine for such a time" They may not have Peter, but who can say how a manufacturers drivers treated them, razzing them about may have given them the treatment needed ! They also didn't use oil like we have these days with H&S removal of many constituents and their properties, and the general quality of many parts cam followers etc I believe was better than offered now. There are many postings on the fitments of cams and followers and their early demise if not treated correctly from many owners and also Cam developers and specialists who sell them. Mick Richards Edited January 25, 2016 by Motorsport Mickey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 You've not asked yet but the reason the revs need to be held over 2000 revs is to help prevent the camshaft putting excess pressure upon the cam followers and "galling" or damaging the cam follower surface, if it does it can dramatically shorten camshaft life. After a cursory check for leaks I used to take the car straight out on the roads and complete the 20 min running there ( if held at traffic lights hold the revs up to 2000) with an emergency toolkit with me just in case. Also ensure the running in oil has sufficient ZDDP content which will help protect the high pressure surfaces ie the cam followers. ^^^ this! ^^^ Not only the TR engine needs to be treated like this, the VW/Porsche flat4 has to be treated like this too. The ZDDP amount is crucial. I would check the Penrite oil for the content of ZDDP before running the engine. (Although I am under the impression that Penrite has things under control) Menno Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hpremote Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 Quote Mick: "I cannot Imagine ST running each engine for such a time" In his 'Triumph by Name' book, Bill Piggott tells of obtaining an original sheet of engine running schedules for TR2s which the factory duly carried out for every engine produced. I haven't the tome in front of me at the mo, but recall, I think, a total of 108 minutes of bench running, including initial setting-up followed by 5 and 10 minute spells of 'light' and 'heavy loading right through the rev. range. Those engines which did not meet the specified bhp requirement during the exercise were 'demoted to lesser Standard models, such as Vanguards' and for a while, I suppose, Sportsmans. Whether this running schedule was continued through later TR models (or as sidescreen TR output went on to expand exponentially), is not mentioned. Tim. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Allen Posted February 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 Again thanks for all the help. Once I moved the distributor around enough to line up spark to No 1 it started first pop and ran very smoothly with no leaks. Oil pressure 60 psi, temp. 185. Trouble was I now had a distributor looking very funny lining up at a very odd angle. So I must admit to a silly mistake I made during the rebuild. I'd been so worried about making sure that as I fitted the distributor and oil pump drive to the camshaft to get the shaft to engage in the oil pump that I missed all the pictures that showed how the slot that would later take the distributor shaft needed to be set at about 55 degrees. Any way I was able to rectify that this morning and got it to look like the picture in the manual. Turned the motor over again on the starter motor to check I still had oil pressure. All OK. Relief all around. Just mentioning to help next novice rebuild. Jim Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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