aardvark Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Hello folks. I will be attending to my leaky plenum soon. I have a pair of long hoses from Moss (from the TR3?) to install from the drain tube in the plenum exiting through the baffle plate behind the front wheel. Now my question ...... Is it possible to remove the baffle plate, drill it and reinstall without taking off the outer wing? Cheers Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest ntc Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Yep Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nibbo Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Yes just undo the bolts if they are not rusted up too much. Nibbo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Best of luck with what you will find when you take them off! Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marc R Posted November 10, 2015 Report Share Posted November 10, 2015 Best of luck with what you will find when you take them off! Stuart. Excellent.... and be prepared Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aardvark Posted November 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Job done - no nasty surprises. Just need to check for rust on SWMBO feet (that was where the plenum drained on to). Cheers Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marc R Posted November 11, 2015 Report Share Posted November 11, 2015 Job done - no nasty surprises. Just need to check for rust on SWMBO feet (that was where the plenum drained on to). Cheers Dave Good news Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stallie Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Very timely thread. I have had a new set to install after I removed mine a couple of years ago - they were rusted but fortunately everything else behind was fine and dry ! Putting back in is next on the list - but hadn't thought of extending the drain. Obviously a thing to do whilst it's out. I'm not familiar with the mod - is it just as simple as drilling a hole in the bottom of the plate to exit the tube? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aardvark Posted November 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Yep the moss parts come with a large grommet to seal against the baffle panel. The grommet has a hole in the centre for the pipe to pass through. The pipe external diameter is quite large though meaning the hole to be drilled needs to be around 28mm. Choose the hole position well - if it's too low you won't be able to do the lower bolts up properly. Google tr6 plenum drain - lots of photos for different solutions. Cheers Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marc R Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 On my TR6, I just installed the hose w/o drilling the "Baffle plate behind front wheel between inner and outer wings" but by inserting the hose on the space between the bottom of the baffle plate and the flore panel. Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stallie Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Thanks - I'll check it out when I get back in the garage. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tonytr Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Just done mine with wing off and added a oil filler tube to capture the rain water from the bonnet Used a 12mm ID T to connect all up Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
len1 Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 I like that ! Will do the same I think Len Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marc R Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Hi Tony, Yes you are correct the point is to drain the rain water coming from (i) the vent lid (via the plenum) and (ii) from the bonnet (via the engine bay). On my TR6, I only addressed the rain water from the plenum and I try to find a way to address the one from the bonnet without dismantling the front wings. A detail maybe, on my TR6 the junction on the bottom edge part of the front inner baffle plate is not rain water proof and I think it is good point in order to vent the area behind and dry it. Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tonytr Posted November 12, 2015 Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 Hi Marc you are right I have not sealed the bottom edge of the baffle and I cannot decide if I should before I put the wing back on. I will try pouring water and see if it all drains away before I make a decision Tony Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aardvark Posted November 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2015 My only reservation with leaving the bottom edge of the baffle unsealed is that road dirt will get kicked up and forced through any gap there into the cavity behind. Given that water will also find its way there under pressure generated by road speed then you might have created good conditions for rusting again. Cheers Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marc R Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Hi Dave, I have also the same concern, follow your point and would like to develop. To do so I have 1 question concerning the original/factory configuration and I consider 2 options; Question: What was the original/factory configuration ? Is the bottom edge of the front inner baffle plate sealed or not? Note: As fare as I observed on my 1st TR6 in '86 and few others TR4 to 6 since,this bottom edge is not sealed. We have (i) only a seal on the side external edge) and (ii) the rain water from the vent lid (via the plenum) and the bonnet (via the engine bay) was going on the cavity behind the baffle plate. 1st Option / not sealed: With rain water falling down to the area behind the baffle plate if the bottom edge is not sealed, road dirt may be cleaned by the rain water coming from the vent plenum and the engine bay and a flow of air (from the botton edge) may contribute to dry this area. 2nd option sealed: Now if we consider the new approach, where the rain water is diverted directly in front of the baffle plate on the front wheel arch area (and the cavity behind the baffle plate a "relatively Dry" area) the situation is different and it maybe better to seal the edge of the bottom part of the baffle plate. Any experience or comments are welcome, the objective is to share experiences, concerns... FIY Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stuart Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Personally I run not only the plenum drains but also the rear bonnet rain channel drains out through the splash panel and then fill the void behind the splash panel with waxoyl, seal the whole wing to inner wing with non setting sealer and then seal the splash panel to inner wing/sill/outer wing that way it all stays dry. Where the drains exit from the splash panel I fit a small rubber flap to prevent any clogging of the tubes with road dirt and to promote a venturi effect with the moving air flow to draw any water out from the tubes. Stuart. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marc R Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Hi Stuart, Thanks' for the sharing and the tip, you are pushing for the Dry cavity approach behind the baffle/splash panel. Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aardvark Posted November 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Hello Marc. Your option 1, in my view merely replicates Triumph's design which we know results in a rust trap. That's why I think option 2 is better - as endorsed by Stuart. Cheers Dave Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marc R Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Dave and Stuard, Yes a agree with you for the option 2 and try to study the best way to divert the rain water from rear bonnet rain channel w/à dismantling the front wings! (rain water from the plenum already diverted). Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rcreweread Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 Personally I run not only the plenum drains but also the rear bonnet rain channel drains out through the splash panel and then fill the void behind the splash panel with waxoyl, seal the whole wing to inner wing with non setting sealer and then seal the splash panel to inner wing/sill/outer wing that way it all stays dry. Where the drains exit from the splash panel I fit a small rubber flap to prevent any clogging of the tubes with road dirt and to promote a venturi effect with the moving air flow to draw any water out from the tubes. Stuart. Stuart I imagine you have considered the other option of extending the hose through the top of the inner sill and then out through the vertical part to exit under the floor - to my mind this creates a neater solution which isn't visible, except from underneath the car, and simply requires drilling two appropriate sized holes, to leave the hose a tightish fit in those holes - with plenty of waxoyl splashed around, no water should get into the sill. I'm sure I've seen photos of this arrangement on here previously . If you really wanted a belt and braces job, you could solder a suitable bit of curved 15mm copper tube through the sill to pick up the existing hose. What have I missed or is it simply a question of personal choice? Cheers Rich Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Nick Hedges Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 As Rich said, i guess it is a matter of choice. For some reason when i did mine i added a sort of down pipe, i think it was because i had just finished adding the guttering to my new shed and thought it was a good idea . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marc R Posted November 13, 2015 Report Share Posted November 13, 2015 An interesting photo for the rear bonnet rain channel Regards Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ed_h Posted November 14, 2015 Report Share Posted November 14, 2015 One more treatment of the rear bonnet gutter drain: Ed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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