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Tr6 bonnet won't open


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I have often wondered about this catch.

 

The open part of the hook is on the forward face.

If the bonnet is propelled rearwards then the hook should simply become detached from the thing it hooks onto thus allowing the bonnet to move rearwards.

 

How does it stop the bonnet moving rearwards.?

 

If the hook faced the other way then it would work as described above - am I missing something.

 

Roger

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AS any keen lycra clad type Cyclist will tell you you have to change Cables, because they fail !

 

15 years ago my TR6 bonnet cable failed and I drove to a certain TR specialists who got it open by putting my car up on the lift, with me aboard, foot flat down on the accelerator pedal whilst they used a long bar to release the catch.

 

Amusingly this was in an old Railway Arch and I could hear the trains rumbling along over my head...from my lofty position I spotted a man welding at a bench, when a spark ignited a tray full of fuel and soon I found myself surrounded by black smoke!

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I have often wondered about this catch.

 

The open part of the hook is on the forward face.

If the bonnet is propelled rearwards then the hook should simply become detached from the thing it hooks onto thus allowing the bonnet to move rearwards.

 

How does it stop the bonnet moving rearwards.?

 

If the hook faced the other way then it would work as described above - am I missing something.

 

Roger

Because for it to release at all the bonnet has to come up about 3" so the pin comes out of the main catch by which time the safety catch has already engaged with the hook. Triumph werent daft and had to fit it to late 4`s and 4a onwards due to increasing crash testing.

Stuart.

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FWIW the safety catch mounting pin on the repro catches isnt very well peened over so I always remove it and drill and tap the pin (10 UNF) and then bolt it to the catch frame. Once you have it in your hand you will see what I mean.

Stuart.

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Hi everyone. Thank you all for your concern and comments. I am not stuck under the bonnet just been busy and had to psych myself up to attempt this task. I have made an S shaped tool and dismantled the dash, flattened the battery so no nasty shocks and hopefully this week will start tunnelling towards the catch with my borescope. If this does not work I will attempt removing the starter and try a broom handle. I will keep you posted on my progress.

Thanks again for all suggestions.

Regards

Ernie

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I think there's a post from one of our antipodean correspondents which gives details of how one can use a hole cutter from the driver's footwell which gives access to the underside of the catch. Rubber bung in afterwards and you're ok if it happens again, heaven forfend.

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  • 4 months later...

Hi John

Yes I tried all the suggestions that members suggested made tools in the bent tools in the shape or an S but 3 hours no joy , Banged the bonnet etc . So I sat down and thought about it .I got a bore scope looked through the loom hole in the bulk head could c the bonnet cable then I got a trim tool from snap on which was 18 in long put it through the hole with the help of the bore scope open the bonnet in 5 mins now I have 3 cables to open the bonnet (1 trim tool 1 bore scope. All done would like to thank every body for there help

Regards

Ernie

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