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13:1 Compression Ratio Head


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But if you really need to use it then a copper head cylinder gasket to lower it.

 

Headgasket.com in USA can custom build them.

 

Suspect you need at least a couple of mm.

 

Never used one myself only read about them

Snowy

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Yes, of course it's possible - anything is possible if you throw enough ingenuity, and money, at it.

In this case 110 octane fuel minimum, plus water injection cooling into the chambers, forged pistons and best of all, Alcohol fuel.

That would run like a kitten purring - a tiger kitten.

 

The engine before last that I built had a static CR of 10.8 - and it pinked out of the box, until I refilled the tank with new fuel.

John

Edited by john.r.davies
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With an aggressive enough cam (which will reduce the dynamic compression ratio), you might get away with it. Whether you could actually put up with the manners of such a cam on the road is another question. Possibly could be tamed to an extent with modern engine management, but on the whole I'm forced to agree with Neil.......

 

Might be some use on a 2L engine - or is that where it came from?

 

Nick

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Yes, with a few tricks, to do with spark and fuelling, it could be made to work. I have to cope with boosts that give that effective compression and run on 95RON.

 

Back to your 13:1 normally aspiarted road engine:

Away from full throttle it will run fine on pump fuel of say 97RON.

Towards mid- to full-throttle it will knock on 97RON once cylinder filling brings above 10.5:1 eff comp. You then have several options, triggered at that point. Alone or in combination.

1. Richen the mixture to around AFR 9:1

https://supertrarged.wordpress.com/2015/08/30/tr6se33-running-on-95ron-octane/

- that will give you very roughly 1.5 ratios above 10.5:1 ( fig 3 in pdf), so that could make it safe at eff CR12:1.

2. Retard the spark.

slide 50: https://supertrarged.wordpress.com/2015/08/10/iwe-tech-seminar-supercharging-trs-for-the-road/

' retard 3 crank deg for each compression ratio rise'

Programmable 123 disy could be useful.

3 Fit water injection

https://supertrarged.wordpress.com/2014/11/10/tr6se-28-water-injection/

but getting water to distribute well between all 6 cylinders is awkward:

https://supertrarged.wordpress.com/2014/11/22/tr6se-29-distribution-of-injected-water/

 

So a 13:1 head is not going to work without a lot of test and experiment.

Easiest is spark retard, but that could lead to bad overheating if run for longer than short bursts.

 

 

Peter

 

Whether its worth the hassle is another question. The power gain going from comprat 9.5 to 13 is around 8%

http://www.hotrod.com/events/coverage/0311em-power-squeeze/

But that table assumes the gain is not knock-limited. All the cures for knock suggested above will reduce that gain below 8%.

The only way to keep all the gain is to run road-illegal high octane fuel.

Edited by Peter Cobbold
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With an aggressive enough cam (which will reduce the dynamic compression ratio), you might get away with it. Whether you could actually put up with the manners of such a cam on the road is another question. Possibly could be tamed to an extent with modern engine management, but on the whole I'm forced to agree with Neil.......

 

Might be some use on a 2L engine - or is that where it came from?

 

Nick

Nick

Correct a 2L is possible but anything over it is skip fodder.

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What would you like to know Neil??

 

I feel honoured you want to involve me in all this ????????????????????????????????

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I made a bad decision a decade or so ago to buy a reconditioned engine from Rimmers. The engine pinked like crazy unless I retarded the ignition pretty much to TDC. Retarding the cam timing helped a bit but the engine still ran v hot. In the end I used a solid shim copper gasket from Gasketworks US to reduce the CR down to about 10. The engine ran fine and made good torque. The only problem was an irritating oil leak from the spark plug side of the gasket which required liberal coatings of gasket sealant.

A little while ago a UK firm was advertising Cometic shim gaskets in varying thicknesses for the TR6 on ebay. I think these would be easier to install than solid copper.

David

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Fitting a decompression gasket kills squish and that promotes knock, so the compression has to be lowered more. And it would probably need lowering below 10.5:1 since that is near the knock limit of head with squish, on 97RON. 99RON might help a little. But a 10.5:1 head with its decent squish seems to me to be the better bolt-on answer.

But it would be fun trying to get 13:1 to run on the road reliably. I dont think its impossible, except with the Lucas PI.

 

Peter

Edited by Peter Cobbold
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Morning Guys,

I spoke with the owner of the head yesterday. He confirmed that it is indeed 13:1 cr. He said the previous owner was building a race car and installed the head to a standard engine but then never finished upgrading the rest of the engine. The guy said he used it on the road for a while (and it was fast) until eventually the performance dropped off due to damaged pistons.

 

Steve

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